hi this is my first post, thanks for reading. i have a pedersoli kentucky flintlock pistol that has a very hard trigger pull and hammer cock also. i tried polishing the sear spring and cam on sear. is that in the right direction as far as easing up this trigger pull. does any one know how to lighten the pull on these pistols. thanks, frank
trigger pull to hard
- Thread starter ftangell
- Start date
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Welcome to the forum. 
The basic problem with the Pedersoli Kentucky pistol's trigger is the location of the pivot pin that the trigger rotates on.
It is too far forward in relation to the sear arm (the part of the sear that sticks out away from the inner lock face when the lock is removed).
The trigger pivot pin is in the trigger plate and, as I recall, there isn't enough material to move it aft towards the sear arm.
That leaves the sear spring as the only part that can be changed to reduce the trigger pressure needed to fire the gun.
This sear spring is at the rear of the lockplate and the lower leaf pushes down on the sear.
When the trigger is pulled it is working directly against this springs pressure trying to push the sear arm upward to rotate the sears nose downward and out of engagement with the tumblers full cock notch.
The lower leaf of the sear spring that is pushing down on the sear can be lightened by reducing the width of it starting at the bend at the rear and tapering it down as it approaches the sear.
In other words, leave it at its full width at the bend and taper it so that the free end is about 3/32 (.093) wide.
This should leave enough force to assure engagement of the sears nose with the full and half cock notch but not so much force that the trigger is unmanageable.
If you do decide to taper this spring remember that ALL filing or grinding MUST be done parallel to the lower leaf. Never file or grind across the thickness of the leaf. Doing so will create scratches that can cause the spring to fail.
To remove the sear spring for filing, loosen but do not remove the one screw at the top that holds it in place.
Using a knife, pry the rear of the spring away from the lockplate. This will disengage the small tab that holds the spring in place.
Now, remove the screw and spring.
To replace it install the screw thru the spring and into the lock plate. When it's snug, use your thumb to press the rear U shaped area down and towards the lock plate. When the tab enters the lockplate, tighten the screw.
Before you attack the spring with a file, check the tightness of the screw that the sear pivots on.
Many locks have this screw overtightened which makes it very difficult to rotate the sear. Loosening this screw slightly often improves the trigger pull enough that no further work on the locks parts is needed.
It should be tightened very lightly and the sear should be very easy to rotate when the sear spring is removed.
The basic problem with the Pedersoli Kentucky pistol's trigger is the location of the pivot pin that the trigger rotates on.
It is too far forward in relation to the sear arm (the part of the sear that sticks out away from the inner lock face when the lock is removed).
The trigger pivot pin is in the trigger plate and, as I recall, there isn't enough material to move it aft towards the sear arm.
That leaves the sear spring as the only part that can be changed to reduce the trigger pressure needed to fire the gun.
This sear spring is at the rear of the lockplate and the lower leaf pushes down on the sear.
When the trigger is pulled it is working directly against this springs pressure trying to push the sear arm upward to rotate the sears nose downward and out of engagement with the tumblers full cock notch.
The lower leaf of the sear spring that is pushing down on the sear can be lightened by reducing the width of it starting at the bend at the rear and tapering it down as it approaches the sear.
In other words, leave it at its full width at the bend and taper it so that the free end is about 3/32 (.093) wide.
This should leave enough force to assure engagement of the sears nose with the full and half cock notch but not so much force that the trigger is unmanageable.
If you do decide to taper this spring remember that ALL filing or grinding MUST be done parallel to the lower leaf. Never file or grind across the thickness of the leaf. Doing so will create scratches that can cause the spring to fail.
To remove the sear spring for filing, loosen but do not remove the one screw at the top that holds it in place.
Using a knife, pry the rear of the spring away from the lockplate. This will disengage the small tab that holds the spring in place.
Now, remove the screw and spring.
To replace it install the screw thru the spring and into the lock plate. When it's snug, use your thumb to press the rear U shaped area down and towards the lock plate. When the tab enters the lockplate, tighten the screw.
Before you attack the spring with a file, check the tightness of the screw that the sear pivots on.
Many locks have this screw overtightened which makes it very difficult to rotate the sear. Loosening this screw slightly often improves the trigger pull enough that no further work on the locks parts is needed.
It should be tightened very lightly and the sear should be very easy to rotate when the sear spring is removed.
Thanks for reply zonie. i did have the spring off but only polished area where it touches sear cam and the cam of sear, also added oil and that was it. i wasn't sure about what i could file off of the sear. so thanks for info. i guess i just need to work with those areas till i get some good results. do you happen to know if there is a trigger replacement that makes a considerable difference to the pull.
Glad it worked out for you.
Another thing about your Pedersoli Kentucky Pistol:
As you've found, the muzzle end of the barrel is retained by a screw passing thru the muzzle cap.
The muzzle cap entraps a short bit of the stocks wood, holding the barrel in place.
Several owners of these guns have used heavy powder charges in them and this has resulted in that wood being sheared off.
Knowing this, perhaps you will want to keep your powder charges to something less than 30 grains (and even 30 grains might be more than is advisable).
If you want to do some gunsmith work you could consider adding a underlug to the bottom of the barrel out towards the muzzle.
This can be soldered to the barrel after removing the bluing in the area using a silver bearing solder. It would require a small area of wood to be removed to clear the underlug and then a cross pin can be drilled thru the wood and underlug.
By installing a pin of the same diameter thru the wood and underlug the barrel will be installed like they should have installed it at the factory.
A 1/16 or 5/64 diameter pin will work fine.
Another thing about your Pedersoli Kentucky Pistol:
As you've found, the muzzle end of the barrel is retained by a screw passing thru the muzzle cap.
The muzzle cap entraps a short bit of the stocks wood, holding the barrel in place.
Several owners of these guns have used heavy powder charges in them and this has resulted in that wood being sheared off.
Knowing this, perhaps you will want to keep your powder charges to something less than 30 grains (and even 30 grains might be more than is advisable).
If you want to do some gunsmith work you could consider adding a underlug to the bottom of the barrel out towards the muzzle.
This can be soldered to the barrel after removing the bluing in the area using a silver bearing solder. It would require a small area of wood to be removed to clear the underlug and then a cross pin can be drilled thru the wood and underlug.
By installing a pin of the same diameter thru the wood and underlug the barrel will be installed like they should have installed it at the factory.
A 1/16 or 5/64 diameter pin will work fine.
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