Tru Oil and Mineral Spirits

[Dicel87]

After some searches here, I was reading some previous posts about cutting BLO with Mineral Spirits in an attempt to get a more satin or less shiny final finish. But BLO seems to have some disadvantages in what I've been researching in terms of lack of modern hardeners and time to cure.

So I wondered if you could cut Tru Oil with Mineral spirits and achieve the less shiny result that many are after - myself included.

Thoughts?

 

[64Springer]

Cut some tru oil with some mineral spirits, rub it on some wood, and see if you like the outcome.

Adjust the cut until you get where you want to be.

 

[geb324]

Use 0000 steel wool to cut the shine of Tru oil

 

[Phil Coffins]

After some searches here, I was reading some previous posts about cutting BLO with Mineral Spirits in an attempt to get a more satin or less shiny final finish. But BLO seems to have some disadvantages in what I've been researching in terms of lack of modern hardeners and time to cure.

So I wondered if you could cut Tru Oil with Mineral spirits and achieve the less shiny result that many are after - myself included.

Thoughts?

That will work very well.

 

[The Crisco Kid]

You can add some Japan dryer to the BLO or Tru Oil to speed up drying. I started using Naptha for a thinner since it evaporates faster than mineral spirits. I also gave up on steel wool and use a grey scotch brite to cut back a finish. As I've said before, it's all about the method so practice on scrap until you figure out which works.

 

[user 34300]

• You can add some Japan dryer to the BLO or Tru Oil to speed up drying. That is a good idea.
• The truth is that BLO is not a good product for finishing gunstocks. You'd be a lot better of with a real finish, take your pick.
• I use spar varnish with a dab of japan dryer and about 50% turpentine. No magic, just easily available, dries fast and is easy to work with.
• Anything that actually dries will work out better than BLO. Unless you like your stock sticky and oozing oil in the summer sun.
• True oil is very low solids. If you want the grain filled it will take many-many coats.
• I have no idea why the page inserted bullet points............

 

[Dicel87]

Thank you for all the replies gents - this forum has so many experienced craftsmen willing to offer assistance.

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

I would avoid BLO.

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
Tru-Oil is not boiled linseed oil. It is linseed oil baked to polymerize the oil faster and then it is mixed with other solvents to speed drying further. Just like polymerized tung oil, you can "dull" Tru-Oil a bit by thinning it with mineral spirits. BLO and Tru-Oil suffer from a common weakness, they are made with linseed oil, which has mediocre weather resistance. Back in the day, linseed oil was combined with resin varnishes to produce a decently protective finish. The old gunsmiths used linseed oil not because it was any good but it was cheap and available.

dave

 

[45man]

I thin tru oil to spray. I spray the stock thin and let get tacky and spray again up to 5 or 6 coats. That makes each layer blend so there are no rub through spots when you rub it out. You must let the stock dry for a week or more until there is no smell left.

 

[user 34300]

If you want to use something with Linseed origins try Tried and True varnish oil. I have not used it, Jim Kibler uses it in his videos.

https://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products/varnish-oil/

 

[Col. Batguano]

Tried `n True is very sensitive to atmospheric humidity when it comes to drying time. It needs to go on very very thin. Japan dryer helps.

 

[The Crisco Kid]

The main benefit to Linseed oil, as I see it anyway, is that it gives a warmth to a finish that none of the varnishes or Tru Oil have. It will also oxidize and darken a light colored wood. After it dries for days or weeks a varnish finish will adhere and give a good weather resistant top coat. It's at this point that I fill the pores with a varnish and pumice with some bone black added to cover the grey. After it sets for a while I rub it off. I end up with a nice satin finish. It works for me anyhow.

 

[sqqy14]

If done correctly BLO is a good gunstock finish...for use on walnut. I wouldn't bother with it on other wood types
like maple or beech. Tru-Oil is much better on these.