Tru Oil?

[Rifleman1776]

raw tung oil takes months to dry almost if ever,

Yeppers. Pure (raw) tung oil is what I used when I built my Navy Arms kit Brown Bess. Didn't take months to dry but seemed like it. I choose pure tung for it's moisture resistant properties and it was kinda the rage at the time (mid-1970s). Don't remember clearly, but I may have gone over it with 0000 steel wool afterwards to get rid of the shiny. BTW, since then I have not found pure tung oil, it is always mixed with something, usually silicone.

 

[dave_person]

Hi Frank,
I am lucky in that Sutherland-Welles tung oil is made in Vermont about 1 hour drive from me. I drive up and visit with the owners and employees whenever I need more finish. I always bring my latest gun project because they like seeing results from their products and they really like seeing the guns. We always end up getting deep into discussions about finishes.

Gus, your comment about wood movement is very interesting. As you know, my latest fowler uses inlet barrel bands to fasten the barrel to the stock. The bands are snug but not extremely tight. The barrel and stock can move a little independent of each other. I wonder if that is part of the reason the gun is so accurate for a smooth bore. I shot it during cool dry days and recently, very hot and humid, and it is so consistent.

dave

 

[Davemuzz]

However, most builders of long barreled guns KNOW to elongate the holes fore and aft in barrel lugs for barrel retaining pins and wedges in the forearms.

See.....there are things that I don't know.....that I don't know. Now I know to slightly elongate my barrel pin holes on my Leman build.

Thanks!!

 

[SDSmlf]

I choose pure tung for it's moisture resistant properties and it was kinda the rage at the time (mid-1970s)....... BTW, since then I have not found pure tung oil, it is always mixed with something, usually silicone.

Source for pure tung oil - https://www.realmilkpaint.com/category/oils/

 

[Zonie]

Yes.
Elongate the pin holes in the barrel underlugs to accommodate expansion and contraction.

This can be done using small round files.

IMO, the amount of elongation only needs to be about 1/16" to do the job.

I don't know how much wood grows or shrinks in the direction of its grain but I've been told that it isn't a great amount. Most of the growth or shrinkage in wood due to humidity is in a direction that is across the grain.

The barrel is another thing that will try to move the underlug pins if the holes are not elongated.

If a barrel heats up to 150°F from being in the sunlight and being shot, the distance between the rear barrel pin and front barrel pin can increase almost .020".
Likewise, if the gun is used out hunting on a day with temperatures around zero, the distance between that same guns barrel pins can shrink over .015".

 

[Artificer]

Gus, your comment about wood movement is very interesting. As you know, my latest fowler uses inlet barrel bands to fasten the barrel to the stock. The bands are snug but not extremely tight. The barrel and stock can move a little independent of each other. I wonder if that is part of the reason the gun is so accurate for a smooth bore. I shot it during cool dry days and recently, very hot and humid, and it is so consistent.

dave

Hi Dave,

I think you have a point there, with a real world example.

Matter of fact, your point got me further thinking about why it is pretty much an accepted fact with International Shooters that original French St. Etienne/Charleville and American Springfield Model 1816-1840 muskets are more accurate than original Brown Bess type muskets. This though no one seemed to be able to point out why it was so.

It may well be that since the French Muskets and American Muskets styled after the French Muskets with barrel bands, rather than barrel pins on a Bess, allow the stock to move a bit more easily with the swelling and shrinking of the wood due to humidity and changes in climate. That could be a contributing factor to the accuracy difference.

Of course we can't discount the fact you use a finish that resists water vapor going in and out of the stock more than some/many period finishes and the fact you are a good shot.

Gus

 

[dave_person]

Hi Gus,
I learned to shoot from the best, my brother John.

dave

 

[Davemuzz]

:thumbsup: :hatsoff:

 

[apachesx2]

I'm going to throw a curve ball to everybody... :stir: After living 11 years in Germany I have come across nothing puts better high quality finish on stock than the original Scherell's Schaftol... It gives you a deep soft oil finish that I have never been able to achieve with Linseed or tru oil... From it's web site... SCHAFTOL® originates from the house of "Jagd- und Sportwaffenfabrik Scherell & Co" - founded in 1834 - and was developed by Oswald Scherell, Berlin, the leading Prussian gunsmith of that time, on the basis of his daily practical experience... On a gun rack you can tell which ones have a true European finish and which one's have an export finish for the USA... This next rifle I'm doing, I going use nothing more than Aquafortis followed by a half dozen or so coats hand rubbed Shaftol into the wood... I done some sample pieces of curly maple and they have come exactly as expected...

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
You are not stirring any pot because the original intent of the thread was about thinning Tru-Oil not selecting a finish. Post some pictures so we can see the results.

dave

 

[apachesx2]

The one with the coin is one coat of Aquafortis... It had more browns...

[/url]IMG_3910 by apachesx2, on Flickr[/img]

By doing a second coat of Aquafortis I was able to get more reds out of the same piece of wood...

IMG_1343 by apachesx2, on Flickr

That was my first attempt at carving I'm improving... Still envious of some you guys... It also isn't that glossy it was the lighting and its soft to the touch like baby's skin...

 

[Col. Batguano]

This explains why competition (.22 free rifle) match shooters are always adjusting their sights during a match. Maybe it's only a click or 2, but they do. When you're shooting those 50' A-36 targets those rings are awfully small.

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
Nice color. I like the lower one and the finish is nice and mellow. I am fortunate in that I have iron in my water. When I use my tap water to dissolve ferric nitrate crystals for stain, I get those redder tones compared to using distilled water. With respect to carving, you may need to improve the sharpness of your tools. They should be so sharp that they can shave hair off your arm.

dave

 

[tenngun]

Wakegon Bay offer an oil called tru-coat that I really liked. They are now out of business I think. Track of the Wolf offers ”˜Origanal oil finish’ a linseed and pine tar based oil. It smells feels and looks just like tru-coat did.I really like it and it produces a hard water resistant finish. I’ve been happy with it on several projects over types of stains.

 

[Darkhorse]

Another trouble spot related to stock swelling is the spot just opposite the end of the sear bar. I always relieve the wood here or take some off the end of the sear bar. Then seal the wood well both inside and outside. I go so far as to use q tips to get sealant down into drilled holes.
I have used Tru Oil to finish stocks in the past with good results, but about 20 years ago I started using Jim Chambers Original oil finish. I was so pleased I won't use anything else now.

 

[Col. Batguano]

Do you ever use a swab and put finish on the inside of the RR hole--the part in the lower forestock? I never have, but maybe I should?

 

[M. De Land]

I've always loved the look of Linspeed and Tru-oil hand rubbed finishes but have never cared for their ability to resist moisture which is improved by waxing but still inadequate in my opinion.
About five years ago I cam across a product by Mini-wax called Spar Varathane which comes in an aerosol can and when dry is water proof not just resistant. It comes from the can very thin and penetrates well.
It takes 72 hours to cure fully but you can repeat applications if done within a 15 minute window.
I decided to try a can as a sealer only and then when dry applying my beloved Tru-oil on top.
I could not tell the difference in final appearance with this method from a standard all oil application.
I particularly like the Spar Varathane after I do a checkering job to strengthen the wood for pointing up the pattern.
I recently finished a checkering pattern for a friend I mine who used tongue oil that was still tacky and the 20 lpi checkering of course cut far below the oil penetration.
I sealed it with the Spar Varathane and will send it back to him soon. I hope he thins the tongue oil on the final coats so it drys out over the Varathan.

 

[54ball]

Sounds sofistcated and very Prussian.
Does this stuff come with a monocle?

 

[Darkhorse]

I use whatever it takes to get the finish into all bare wood possible. I have used a patch on a cf cleaning rod to seal up into the RR hole.
The Chambers Oil is both a sealer and finish. You use 2 different methods of application.
Several coats will get you a high gloss or you can subdue the gloss with a scuff pad.
My personal deer rifle was built 20 years ago and sealed and finished with Chambers Oil, it looks at first glance like it did the day I finished the rifle.
This was my first rifle and I built it to shoot, but was hesitant to try any decoration. It really needs some moulding lines.

The shine can be subdued with a scuff pad if desired.

 

[apachesx2]

The monocle was an extra $5... I just like natural oil finishes topped with a little bees wax... From what I've read there was various finishes put on the long rifles from the semi-secret original Stradivarius type violin finishes(which does come with a free monocle) to oil finishes to ship varnish... Number of the gun builders in the colonies had immigrated from Europe... It's is one of oldest blends of nut oils available today...