Yup . . . .upside down, after wiping the threads of the bottle and cap, a LIGHT smear of white grease on thread, and finally, with a thin plastic “gasket” (part of a Hefty plastic bag) between cap and bottle.
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tru oil
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Yup . . . .upside down, after wiping the threads of the bottle and cap, a LIGHT smear of white grease on thread, and finally, with a thin plastic “gasket” (part of a Hefty plastic bag) between cap and bottle.
The Appalachian
Feral American
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Softening caked up Tru Oil isn't practical, as noted above, it would be like trying to unbake a stale cake.
Unless the entire bottle is hardened there is usually just a skin over the top that you can poke through to get good liquid out that's underneath.
Storing it upside down as mentioned above is the best way to prevent a skin forming on the top. Another way that works quite well is to fill the empty space in the bottle with BB's until the liquid is forced right there to the very top of the bottle.
Tru Oil is a witches brew of boiled linseed oil, Japan Drier, other hardening and glossing agents. I've used a boat load of it, and wasted a lot of time on stocks controlling what type look I needed for each.
I've had better luck with just Boiled Linseed Oil and adding my own dose of Japan Drier to it. Heated on an electric stove eye in a small stainless steel measuring cup, then liberally brushing on the wood with a cheap bristle brush and hung in a warm environment for about 20 to 30 minutes, or until it just begins to tack up. Wipe down dry with a cheap cotton wash cloth and hung over night to cure, then buff down with a 000 or 0000 scotch brite pad. Multiple coats in that manner give a better finish build up than Tru Oil.
For a final finish I use axe wax for a warm glow and if I want glossy I use renaissance wax.
Unless the entire bottle is hardened there is usually just a skin over the top that you can poke through to get good liquid out that's underneath.
Storing it upside down as mentioned above is the best way to prevent a skin forming on the top. Another way that works quite well is to fill the empty space in the bottle with BB's until the liquid is forced right there to the very top of the bottle.
Tru Oil is a witches brew of boiled linseed oil, Japan Drier, other hardening and glossing agents. I've used a boat load of it, and wasted a lot of time on stocks controlling what type look I needed for each.
I've had better luck with just Boiled Linseed Oil and adding my own dose of Japan Drier to it. Heated on an electric stove eye in a small stainless steel measuring cup, then liberally brushing on the wood with a cheap bristle brush and hung in a warm environment for about 20 to 30 minutes, or until it just begins to tack up. Wipe down dry with a cheap cotton wash cloth and hung over night to cure, then buff down with a 000 or 0000 scotch brite pad. Multiple coats in that manner give a better finish build up than Tru Oil.
For a final finish I use axe wax for a warm glow and if I want glossy I use renaissance wax.
johnfrommd
Pilgrim
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Been doing this for over 50 years and it works just fine.
I do not like shine so after applying it wet. I wipe it off in a few minutes with a lint free cloth.
That gives a great non shiny finish
That gives a great non shiny finish
A friend gave me a can of it about 10 years ago inside a sealable plastic bag, still good!
user 34300
54 Cal.
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As long as we are discussing other finishes, I have experience. First, I stopped using True oil in about 1983. It builds slowly due to low solids. It is too shiny for me. I have tried dozens of products over the years. For ML use I have settled on medium gloss spar varnish. I add about 1/3 turpentine and a dollop of japan dryer. I mix about 1-ounce at a time. It lasts about a week in a screw top container. At that point it turns to jello. That is long enough to do one stock.
Thing is that the exact finish selected is not super important. How you apply and manage it is the important thing.
Thing is that the exact finish selected is not super important. How you apply and manage it is the important thing.
stephenprops1
45 Cal.
Also, if it is undone would the TruOil be of any use again?
I have been using Tru-oil for a very long time, being cheap I have tried to thin and soften the set up stuff a bunch of times, the results were just so so. Every time I tried to save money by salvaging the stuff I ended up pitching the old bottle in the trash and buying new.
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I love tru-oil, it is easy to use and gives a durable finish that is also easy to touch up when needed. Now for the shine, it depends on what I want. In order to reduce the shine I use a light to heavy rub with 0000 steel wool. This gives me a dull finish that is still durable. It is important the make sure that the tru-oil is completely dry before you use the steel wool and take your time, it’s not a horse race. I’ve been happy with the final result.
For some reason it does tickle me how we sometimes try to save a few dollars on a worthwhile product and in the process we make something that won't hardly do the job, when perhaps just last week we spent 10 times that amount on something that we didn't need but we just wanted. Sometimes, the 10 times is as high as 50 times and yet we don't blink an eye. We're all the same aren't we? Life is a matter of priorities. I have used this same tru-oil product for knife handles on knives I made and sometimes repaired my old-time butcher knife handles. The darn stuff even survives a dishwasher and that's pretty hot water. I just bite the bullet and when the crust gets too thick in the bottle I buy a new one.
Squint
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WOW, wished I'd thought of that close to 50 years ago!
I've not had good luck finding "lint free" rag when I need it, so I LIGHTLY rub the Light Grey Abrasive Pads from Lowes (in the paint section) after each coat and the final coat. After the final coat, I then rub the dickens out of the finish with a piece of terrycloth hand towel. It gives the look a wonderful "warm" glow to the finish that many people really like.
3M 3.75-in x 6-in Fine Steel Wool in the Refinishing Pads department at Lowes.com
Gus
