True Oil not drying well

[Micah Clark]

Hey Gang,

Minor question, I hope.

I have my stock stained w LMF and it worked just as expected.

I am now using True Oil via a spray can. I am up to coat #3 which will likely be my last.

I followed the instructions on the spray can which said 90-120 minutes after my first coat I could steel wool it back and hit again. I did this just shy of 3 hours but I wonder now if that was enough. . and hit it with coat 2.

I cut that back w steel wool about 16 hours later the next day, I think.

Then I hit it for coat 3 . . that was about 12 hours ago.

I do not intend to cut this last coat back until tomorrow (Monday) eve. .. or later.

HERE'S WHY AND MY QUESTION

Each time after I cut it back w steel wool the stock seems tacky. In fact I wish now I had waited more after that first light coat because each time it seemed a little tacky. . it did not leave fingerprints tacky to the touch, but not quite what I had expected or wanted.

It is humid in August in Indiana. The finish looks nice each time. . gloss is beautiful, though imperfections I never saw before seem to jump out with the gloss. . and since that's not period correct, I'm good with cutting the shine.

Yet, I am concerned that the finish never quite seems to be as dry and hard as I expected. Perhaps I goofed. . . I am letting this last coat "dry" for several days if necessary before hitting with steel wool.

Any comments or thoughts?

Thanks !!

 

[kingsax26]

1) spray can finishes are a pain in the arse in my opinion.
2) the more humid it is the longer it takes to cure. If you have a blow dryer you can hit it with that for a while to help it cure..but your best bet is to just let it sit for a couple of days.
3) i tend to find that aeresol finishes dry much differently than t he hand applied variant. and are much harder to control. you may be putting a much thicker coat than you realize on....this will significantly increase the dry/cure time. usually , if im using a spray finish...i wait at least double what the directions say

 

[coloradoclyde]

It's the humidity.

Also not a fan of spray cans...

 

[mooman76]

A fan would also help it to dry faster. I prefer a rubbed finish. You can put it on thinner and it dries faster and easier to avoid runs. Just my preference.

 

[FrontierMuzzleloading]

give it time to dry. Its going on thicker than it needs to most likely, which is why its still tacky.

I'd give it a couple days to set up and then wet sand or buff.

 

[Micah Clark]

1) spray can finishes are a pain in the arse in my opinion.
2) the more humid it is the longer it takes to cure. If you have a blow dryer you can hit it with that for a while to help it cure..but your best bet is to just let it sit for a couple of days.
3) i tend to find that aeresol finishes dry much differently than t he hand applied variant. and are much harder to control. you may be putting a much thicker coat than you realize on....this will significantly increase the dry/cure time. usually , if im using a spray finish...i wait at least double what the directions say

Very helpful . . thanks, all the quotes from everyone are helpful.

I didn't admit that I tried the wife's hair dryer and it seemed to help.

I didn't think I got that much sprayed on . . . next time, I'll go with a bottle.

THANKS !!!!

 

[mooman76]

It dries quick here. In the summer I can easily put a 2nd coat on after an hour and every two hours after that.

 

[Black Hand]

Get the stock out in the sun.

 

[Vaino]

I think the spray can is applying too heavy a coat. Whatever finish I apply is w/ the fingers and very, very thin.....Fred

 

[Artificer]

Get the stock out in the sun.

That is an extremely good tip, but I must caution that you don't want it outside when the wind is blowing much, as the wind will blow all kinds of "stuff" onto the oil you don't want. When that happens, it takes longer to get the "stuff" off and repair the finish around it.

At our old shot, we had a long bank of windows where the sun shown in most of the day. We had a board above the windows that held hooks for many stocks. The sun beating in dried the oil well even during winter.

The one thing about Tru Oil is that you MUST wait whatever time it takes for each coat to dry thoroughly before rubbing it out and adding another coat. That time will be different in different parts of the country and different times of the year, but you just have to wait whatever time it takes for each coat to dry.

Gus

 

[Cowboy]

One thing about using Tru-Oil is that after the wood sucks up all it can take, any additional coats is just putting tru-oil on top of tru-oil and it will take longer to dry. Also as other's have already stated, humidity and weather conditions where you live also play a big factor in drying time.

Respectfully, Cowboy

 

[dave_person]

Hi Mac,
Tru Oil is just polymerized linseed oil, which means it was heat treated to speed up the drying process. I would never consider 3 hours to be sufficient time between coats. At least 24 hours should be allowed regardless of what the directions say. You have applied coats over undried previous coats and that is why the finish remains tacky. Place the gun in the sun for a day or so before adding any more finish. Then give it at least a week before rubbing back. A finish can dry in 24 hours but it is not cured. That can take a week or more and is essential before rubbing back or you will rub off the finish. If the grain is pretty well filled with oil, spray Tru-oil into a lid or cup and dip your fingers in the oil. Then rub a few drops on the stock with your hands until it starts to feel sticky. Put aside for a day and repeat until you get the luster you require. Be patient because you cannot rush a good finish.

dave

 

[Micah Clark]

Get the stock out in the sun.

Sun? It's been raining here for days . . . we need it, but why now?

 

[Micah Clark]

Hi Mac,
Tru Oil is just polymerized linseed oil, which means it was heat treated to speed up the drying process. I would never consider 3 hours to be sufficient time between coats. At least 24 hours should be allowed regardless of what the directions say. You have applied coats over undried previous coats and that is why the finish remains tacky. Place the gun in the sun for a day or so before adding any more finish. Then give it at least a week before rubbing back. A finish can dry in 24 hours but it is not cured. That can take a week or more and is essential before rubbing back or you will rub off the finish. If the grain is pretty well filled with oil, spray Tru-oil into a lid or cup and dip your fingers in the oil. Then rub a few drops on the stock with your hands until it starts to feel sticky. Put aside for a day and repeat until you get the luster you require. Be patient because you cannot rush a good finish.

dave

I am thinking that after reading all these suggestions that I should let it sit for a week. I think I put one uncured coat over another.

I am going to cut if back to a pretty dull finish, as pretty as the gloss it, I don't think it is all that appropriate for my lancaster.

THANKS !!!

 

[Onojutta]

Get the stock out in the sun.

Sun? It's been raining here for days . . . we need it, but why now?

Yep, you got my luck! I agree with others, it's amazing how much faster stuff cures with direct sunlight beating on it for a few hours, even if the humidity is high.

 

[Artificer]

I am thinking that after reading all these suggestions that I should let it sit for a week. I think I put one uncured coat over another.

I think that is a very good idea.

When I use Fiebing's Leather Dye to stain stocks, I find I have to let the first coat of Tru Oil dry for at least two or three days to ensure it hardens correctly, when I can't put the stock out in the sun. Sometimes when it is cold, clammy and or humid; I have to wait more days than that. I don't really care how long it takes, but just that the Tru Oil is DRY before I go on to other coats. After that, I wait about 12 hours between Tru Oil coats, morning and night.

I am going to cut if back to a pretty dull finish, as pretty as the gloss it, I don't think it is all that appropriate for my lancaster.

May I suggest you use the Gray Abrasive Pads that are sold in the Big Box Hardware stores as being "equivalent" to OOO Steel Wool? I have had exceptionally good luck with them and then "rubbing the dickens out of the stock" with a terry cloth rag. It gives a most pleasing low gloss, "original looking" finish.

BTW, I have tried the White Abrasive Pads that are sold in the Big Box Hardware stores as being "equivalent" to OOOO Steel Wool and they don't work well for that. I do use them when I WANT a super shiny final coat of oil, just before the final coat of Tru Oil goes on. However, that is not HC/PC correct or desirable for most ML guns.

Gus

 

[crockett]

That is not nearly enough drying time and the coats are probably way too thick. There is no need to spray. As Fred said- put a few drops on the stock and rub it in with your hand. Nice thin coats. If a first coat has not fully dried and you put another coat on top- may have to take everything off.
Everyone is always in a big rush these days- set it aside a day or two and do something else between drying times.
What confuses matters is most muzzle loaders are maple while a lot of modern rifles use walnut that has open pores. On a modern stock a very thick coat of Tru-oil is put on and wet sanded to create a "mud" to fill pores. This is on raw walnut- no stain- but that is a completely different process.
So go with very thin coats.

 

[Micah Clark]

These are great comments.

I have white scratch pads that equal 0000 . . I will get some grey ones for 000 equivalent of steel wool.

Thanks for the advice.

It seems clear to me that my first coat didn't dry long enough before I added the 2nd . . and there in is the problem.

This stock is going to sit for several days. . then get cut back with a pad . . probably this weekend !!!

 

[Tinker2]

This is why I like this forum. :hatsoff:

You got very good advice.





William Alexander

 

[M. De Land]

I wonder if it's the UV light or heat in direct sun light that causes the Tru-oil to cure more quickly.
Any one ever try a heat lamp in cold or wet weather to cure oil?
I was under the impression that heat lamps provide both.