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Has anyone tried tungsten super shot in their smoothbores? I was wondering if tungsten shot would be too hard for the barrels?
Kevin
Kevin
TSS in smoothbores
- Thread starter Kev308
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Tungsten will be hard on any barrel that isn't chrome lined.
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That’s pretty much what I thought would be the case. I guess then the same would go for bismuth?
Bismuth is much softer than Tungsten, close to lead. That's why people use it in their classic shotguns.
Some folks need/want non-lead shot options. I have performed a bit of research with very little information forthcoming about using TSS in traditional smoothbores. Folks say it will ruin you barrel or the plastic shotgun wads will melt and leave nasty residue in your barrel. Well, I ran a couple of test on my Chambers .62 English officers fusil with a 41” barrel which is jug choked.
I acquired some #9 TSS, some non-slit plastic 20 gauge shotgun wads designed for TSS and a plastic shotgun wad slitter.
I compared weight to volume for TSS with a digital scale and my standard powder measure. I found:
1 ounce (by weight) of TSS = 40 grains (by volume) in my powder measure
1.5 oz ( by weight) of TSS = 60 grains (by volume)
1.75 oz ( by weight) of TSS = 70 grains ( by volume)
I tested several loads but here is my best load so far: (30 yards distance).
70 grains FFG Goex powder
1 1/8” nitro card edge lubed with Mr. Flintlock lube
1 1/8” wool felt wad lightly lubed with Mr. Flintlock lube
1 plastic shotgun wad (for TSS) slit fully and trimmed to length of shot column
70 grains #9 TSS
1 over shot card
My target was a large sheet of light cardboard with a lovely turkey image drawn on it. Turkey’s neck is about 10” for perspective.
As you can see, the pattern is pretty good at 30 yards. This is only the results of my testing with my flintlock smoothbore. Your mileage may vary.
No evidence of burning/melting plastic wads.
No evidence of plastic residue in barrel.
Wads have powder residue staining but could be used again.
No evidence of TSS dimpling the wads.
No evidence of damage to the barrel.
Jug choke did not appear to have influenced the pattern using plastic shotgun wads.
I acquired some #9 TSS, some non-slit plastic 20 gauge shotgun wads designed for TSS and a plastic shotgun wad slitter.
I compared weight to volume for TSS with a digital scale and my standard powder measure. I found:
1 ounce (by weight) of TSS = 40 grains (by volume) in my powder measure
1.5 oz ( by weight) of TSS = 60 grains (by volume)
1.75 oz ( by weight) of TSS = 70 grains ( by volume)
I tested several loads but here is my best load so far: (30 yards distance).
70 grains FFG Goex powder
1 1/8” nitro card edge lubed with Mr. Flintlock lube
1 1/8” wool felt wad lightly lubed with Mr. Flintlock lube
1 plastic shotgun wad (for TSS) slit fully and trimmed to length of shot column
70 grains #9 TSS
1 over shot card
My target was a large sheet of light cardboard with a lovely turkey image drawn on it. Turkey’s neck is about 10” for perspective.
As you can see, the pattern is pretty good at 30 yards. This is only the results of my testing with my flintlock smoothbore. Your mileage may vary.
No evidence of burning/melting plastic wads.
No evidence of plastic residue in barrel.
Wads have powder residue staining but could be used again.
No evidence of TSS dimpling the wads.
No evidence of damage to the barrel.
Jug choke did not appear to have influenced the pattern using plastic shotgun wads.
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Nice write up.
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If chrome is so tough, why did I see all those rusted car bumpers back when I was a kit? Flaking, rusting, etc.
Chrome is hard, but thin.
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Does the plastic shot wad leave residue in the bore?
Most likely a process error.
The point of a chrome lined barrel is that chrome is harder than steel, and tungsten, so those materials won't score the bore.
Yes, but it cleans right out with a solvent same as it does in a modern gun.
Excellent material and write up. Yes TSS is safe for muzzleloaders using the appropriate over powder wads, a tungsten designed shotcup and appropriate overshot card. I use 2 leather over powder wads, 1/4 inch lubed felt wad, SAM 1 20ga shotcup trimmed down and slit with 4 petals and another 1/4 inch lubed felt overshot wad. 1 1/8 oz of TSS 5, 6, and 7's is a goose and turkey hammer. 75 grains of OE or Swiss 3Fg gives me 1132 fps. I typically shoot my own homemade bismuth shot when waterfowl hunting, however hunting turkeys in bottom land swamps often requires full body shots and TSS has the punch to do that work and drop them in their tracks. Good luck to you.
In regards to your shot cup, what size do you use? I tried purchasing the 3inch cups but they are sold out everywhere. There are some 2 3/4 inch available. Will they hold enough TSS?Some folks need/want non-lead shot options. I have performed a bit of research with very little information forthcoming about using TSS in traditional smoothbores. Folks say it will ruin you barrel or the plastic shotgun wads will melt and leave nasty residue in your barrel. Well, I ran a couple of test on my Chambers .62 English officers fusil with a 41” barrel which is jug choked.
I acquired some #9 TSS, some non-slit plastic 20 gauge shotgun wads designed for TSS and a plastic shotgun wad slitter.
I compared weight to volume for TSS with a digital scale and my standard powder measure. I found:
1 ounce (by weight) of TSS = 40 grains (by volume) in my powder measure
1.5 oz ( by weight) of TSS = 60 grains (by volume)
1.75 oz ( by weight) of TSS = 70 grains ( by volume)
I tested several loads but here is my best load so far: (30 yards distance).
70 grains FFG Goex powder
1 1/8” nitro card edge lubed with Mr. Flintlock lube
1 1/8” wool felt wad lightly lubed with Mr. Flintlock lube
1 plastic shotgun wad (for TSS) slit fully and trimmed to length of shot column
70 grains #9 TSS
1 over shot card
My target was a large sheet of light cardboard with a lovely turkey image drawn on it. Turkey’s neck is about 10” for perspective.
As you can see, the pattern is pretty good at 30 yards. This is only the results of my testing with my flintlock smoothbore. Your mileage may vary.
No evidence of burning/melting plastic wads.
No evidence of plastic residue in barrel.
Wads have powder residue staining but could be used again.
No evidence of TSS dimpling the wads.
No evidence of damage to the barrel.
Jug choke did not appear to have influenced the pattern using plastic shotgun wads.
Thanks for your time!
Good luck with it... I find them impossible to get.. I can't buy from either of those places...
Oh sorry, Im looking for 20 gauge
If you do not shoot that much you can purchase some 20 ga 2 3/4 inch steel shot loads and pull the wads out. Or you can use 20 ga lead wads and Mylar wrap on the inside. Both will work. You can cut off the cushion section of the lead wads or leave it. I trim them off to make a shorter shot column.
William Sublette
45 Cal.
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Thanks for the info!
Thr chrome plating in shotgun barrels, any type of shotgun and the notion its to facilitate the use of certain hard shot types is a complete red herring and assumption.
The chrome is thin and has a soft copper wash underneath otherwise it would not stick to the steel.
It is there as an aid to prevent corrosion only.
The chrome is thin and has a soft copper wash underneath otherwise it would not stick to the steel.
It is there as an aid to prevent corrosion only.
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