I have a stock I'm refinishing and thought I'd give tung oil a try. I put the first coat on and it soaked it in. Thedirections said to wait for 6-8 hours then repeat. I waited for 24 hours and gave it a second coat and now 24 hours later its still tacky and some areas on the stock are turning a grayish white color. So any words of advice here before I strip it all off and start over with my usual hand rubbed Deftoil?
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Tung Oil????
- Thread starter bub524
- Start date
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Bub,
Used Formbys tung oil on 2 stocks and they came out very nice. I use a small piece of lint free cloth and rub the oil into the wood in a circular motion then wipe with the same cloth in the direction of the grain. Probally takes less than a thimble full each time. "Less is better'
After each coat I let it dry for a minimum of 24 hrs. then rub with 0000 steel wool before applying next coat. The final coat is not steel wooled. Usually takes 7 to 15 coats depending on the grain of the wood. The process is rather time consuming but in the end they look real nice. Good luck with yours. In the begining I found if I put too much on it never dried and got gummy so you might want to strip it off and start over.
Gary
Used Formbys tung oil on 2 stocks and they came out very nice. I use a small piece of lint free cloth and rub the oil into the wood in a circular motion then wipe with the same cloth in the direction of the grain. Probally takes less than a thimble full each time. "Less is better'
After each coat I let it dry for a minimum of 24 hrs. then rub with 0000 steel wool before applying next coat. The final coat is not steel wooled. Usually takes 7 to 15 coats depending on the grain of the wood. The process is rather time consuming but in the end they look real nice. Good luck with yours. In the begining I found if I put too much on it never dried and got gummy so you might want to strip it off and start over.
Gary
Guest
Just use paint or lacquer thinner to wipe off the excess, no need to actually strip the finish. Allow it to dry, then re apply THIN coats, by rubbing it on with a lint free cloth dipped in the Tung oil. Tung Oil is about the easiest and most forgiving finish to work with and is more water and stain resistant than than linseed oil and just as easy to repair minor blemishes as linseed oil.
Are you using pure tung oil or one of the "tung oil finishes" like Formby's or Minwax? These finishes are a mixture of tung oil with lots of varnish and dryers. Not knocking them, I use these finishes (prefer minwax to formby's). They can be photoreactive and dry faster if exposed to sunlight.
DJL
DJL
Rather than stripping it off, why don't you get a piece of denum or other heavy fabric and rub it off?
The harder you rub, the more heat you will generate and this should leave a surface that looks good and may dry someday. :grin: (I couldn't resist that).
Actually, rubbing it until it's dry should produce a nice finish.
zonie
The harder you rub, the more heat you will generate and this should leave a surface that looks good and may dry someday. :grin: (I couldn't resist that).
Actually, rubbing it until it's dry should produce a nice finish.
zonie
If it is still tacky, put a lil turpentine on a rag & wipe the entire stock off. Let it sit for about 8 hrs. Now take a teaspoon full of tung oil & put it in a jar lid. Take some Japan Drier & put 2 drops of that in the tung oil in the lid, take a screwdriver blade & stir it in. Now apply that with your fingertip & rub in 1 drop at a time til dry working about a 6" place at a time, the last couple strokes of your fingertip should be with the grain of the wood. Do this til you have covered the stock. Depending on the humidity of the atmosphere you are working there, you should be able to recoat in 8 hrs, possibly sooner.
:thumbsup:
:thumbsup:
Birddog6, I been putting together guns and furniture for about 35years. That advice about the tong oil and Japan dryer is about the best I've heard in all those years. I tried it and it works phenomenal. Can't beleive anything so easy gives such a nice finish.
Don't tell anyone else because this must be a top secret trick the pros use and if I can do a good job with it they better look out because everybody's going to know the secret.
Thanks for the advice all.
Don't tell anyone else because this must be a top secret trick the pros use and if I can do a good job with it they better look out because everybody's going to know the secret.
Thanks for the advice all.
Some people are allergic to Tung oil.
I understand that years ago, the military thought it would be a good idea to use Tung oil on their rifle stocks.
Some of the troops broke out with large itchy areas on their hands and arms and these allergic reactions were traced back to the rifles finish so be aware of this when you decide to use Tung oil on your guns.
zonie
I understand that years ago, the military thought it would be a good idea to use Tung oil on their rifle stocks.
Some of the troops broke out with large itchy areas on their hands and arms and these allergic reactions were traced back to the rifles finish so be aware of this when you decide to use Tung oil on your guns.
zonie
blacksmithshoppe
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One of the main ingredients in Jim Chambers Traditional Oil Stock Finish is Tung oil.
Jeff
Jeff
Hey, glad it worked out for ya !! Another thing I do that is a cheap fix...... I always use fresh tung oil & I keep the lid on the can. It has some driers in it & they will evaporate if you leave the can open, thus why a teasponfull at a time in the jar lid.
When I build a new rifle, I use a New can of tung oil every time. It cost $5-6 and it well worth the cost to have clean slick fast drying finish. I save the old stuff for sealing stock blanks & boards on the ends & etc.
Same way with Tru-Oil. If I put it on a stock, use a new bottle every time. Aggravates the H out of me to put a finish on something & 12 hr later cannot work it because it is still tacky..... :redface: The old Tru-oil I use to swab down in the RR holes & under buttplates & etc. where it don't have to be slick & purdy, just seal it off from moisture.
Also I generally work two rifles at one time. This way if I am finishing one or bedding something on one, I can work on the other one while waiting on it to dry.
:thumbsup:
When I build a new rifle, I use a New can of tung oil every time. It cost $5-6 and it well worth the cost to have clean slick fast drying finish. I save the old stuff for sealing stock blanks & boards on the ends & etc.
Same way with Tru-Oil. If I put it on a stock, use a new bottle every time. Aggravates the H out of me to put a finish on something & 12 hr later cannot work it because it is still tacky..... :redface: The old Tru-oil I use to swab down in the RR holes & under buttplates & etc. where it don't have to be slick & purdy, just seal it off from moisture.
Also I generally work two rifles at one time. This way if I am finishing one or bedding something on one, I can work on the other one while waiting on it to dry.
:thumbsup:
By the way, for those of you who use Tru-oil and other finishes which tend to develop a hard layer on the surface of the oil after the bottle/can is opened:
Store the bottle/can upside down (after making sure the lid is on tight). The hard layer will then form at "the bottom" leaving fresh oil on top.
Another thing that can be done is to steal (I mean borrow) some of your kids marbles (they do still have marbles don't they?) and drop them into the bottle to bring the level of the liquid up into the bottles neck. This will minimize the hardening effects.
zonie
Store the bottle/can upside down (after making sure the lid is on tight). The hard layer will then form at "the bottom" leaving fresh oil on top.
Another thing that can be done is to steal (I mean borrow) some of your kids marbles (they do still have marbles don't they?) and drop them into the bottle to bring the level of the liquid up into the bottles neck. This will minimize the hardening effects.
zonie
