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Tuning, reshaping flintlock lock

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Joined
Jun 19, 2024
Messages
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Location
Pennsylvania
I picked up this decent (apparently no long made) Dixie Gun Works flintlock lock for a fair price. It's for a pistol build and is the right size of 4-3/4" long. The same\similar size to a L&R Manton lock that I have on a scaled down (kid\small frame person) 45-Cal flintlock rifle.

So, the lock plate started out as this, and I wanted it to look slimmer. You can see my marker that gave me the rough outline of the metal I wanted removed
G7ApbeBl.jpg


After some filing the shape is more what I want. A slimmer look
zZvbR8Ul.jpg



During the tuning\polishing phase I noticed the lock offset was not coming to rest on the bolster, but instead, the tumbler would stop the forward motion (of course, the frizzen would be hit first...but you never know!!
BhsECdQl.jpg
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So I (at the suggestion of the good people at ALR) decided to hard solder (Silver solder) a piece on the bolster so the cock offset would come to rest where it should, and not the tumbler against the Bridle.

EItE9Syl.jpg


So, after the solder.....it's "Clean up on Isle 3" (old guys will get that). It cleaned up well (to about 90% now....I'll finish it post inletting), all contact points are polished and the lock functions well, spark's well, and the poundage to trip the sear bar is in line with my other locks. I think the little bump won't be all that noticeable on the pistol.

FD66sBxl.jpg
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Good problem solving. Often on original flintlocks that had a lot of hard use, repairs or additions were made to the cock “ledge” (for lack of a better term) by brazing on a piece of iron there. Just another option for those who don’t weld.
I'm the first to admit that anything with using "fire" I am usually bad at.

But, having the right flux, silver solder, and clamp (tools) go a long way in making a job easy. This was easy.
 
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