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TVM Southern Rifle/Tennessee Rifle
- Thread starter Norseman
- Start date
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CrackStock
69 Cal.
- Joined
- Dec 23, 2004
- Messages
- 3,017
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- 9
Norse,
Well, Rich beat me to the website, but I would also point you to the books by Jerry Noble. He published his books himself and they can be ordered by calling 309 582-2852 between 8 and 10 pm Central. He is happy to discuss these guns, their construction and their history. It has been a pleasure to speak with him several times.
I would still try for a rounded late English lock with or without the pointed tit, but then I cannot say much as I have one with a Siler myself.
On the other hand, you can look back and see that my comments on both TVMs are uniformly positive. You should be quite happy with your rifle.
As to barrels, I have 3 or more Green Mountains and like them. I also have a LongHammock (from Matt and Toni) which I like at least as much.
CS
Well, Rich beat me to the website, but I would also point you to the books by Jerry Noble. He published his books himself and they can be ordered by calling 309 582-2852 between 8 and 10 pm Central. He is happy to discuss these guns, their construction and their history. It has been a pleasure to speak with him several times.
I would still try for a rounded late English lock with or without the pointed tit, but then I cannot say much as I have one with a Siler myself.
On the other hand, you can look back and see that my comments on both TVMs are uniformly positive. You should be quite happy with your rifle.
As to barrels, I have 3 or more Green Mountains and like them. I also have a LongHammock (from Matt and Toni) which I like at least as much.
CS
Not everybody's a stickler for being as historically accurate as is practical and that's OK. The gunmakers know full well that "everybody trusts a Siler" and that's why they use it- it's a quality, reliable lock.
If I was building a Tennessee rifle I'd use the L&R Durs Egg (I have and love this lock) for an early flinter and modify a round- tailed L&R Manton etc for late flint styles. I've built rifles with both and have tuned these locks to be spectacular sparkers. They have the correct English style.
If I was building a Tennessee rifle I'd use the L&R Durs Egg (I have and love this lock) for an early flinter and modify a round- tailed L&R Manton etc for late flint styles. I've built rifles with both and have tuned these locks to be spectacular sparkers. They have the correct English style.
You all are a great bunch of guys and I really appreciate your inputs! I have been checking out a lot of books and investigating on line and a couple of different muzzle loading forums. Man, I have to admit that I have re-fallen in love with traditional muzzle loading really bad. In the late 70's I made one of those CVA Kentucky flintlocks rifles. Well, I guess you know how that went as far as quality. It came out great BUT...you know what I mean as far as quality ect. Just a coat hanger...I mean wall hanger LOL. Anyway, I love American frontier history and really can't say which time period I love most! It can go from the 1730-1840 and find it ALL fasinating. I settled on the Southern Style of flint lock, beacause I live in the south. I hunt in the Blue Ridge mountains. I was one of the few nuts in the late 70's-80's that first read the FoxFire series for example. I am facinated by Apalachian culture. Love blue grass and play madolin and guitar.
I have another question that I am sure you gents can help me out on. Since I decided to to with the .50 cal, what is the max charge of both FF or FFF in a Green Mountain 7/8" X 42 barrel? I am used to my Old Great Plains rifle with a max charge of 100 grns of FF and 80 grains of FFF. In that rifle it settled in on 80 grains of FF. I am not used to the .50.
I have another question that I am sure you gents can help me out on. Since I decided to to with the .50 cal, what is the max charge of both FF or FFF in a Green Mountain 7/8" X 42 barrel? I am used to my Old Great Plains rifle with a max charge of 100 grns of FF and 80 grains of FFF. In that rifle it settled in on 80 grains of FF. I am not used to the .50.
I don't know about max charges for that barrel but usually the most accurate is well below the max, I would use 3f and prime with the same if the lock/touchhole and evrey thing is in order it should work fine and you will have only one horn to carry.
I appreciate the info. I normally work my way say for my .54 starting with .50grains of FF. It settles in on 80 grains and never had to fool with it again as far as target accuracy/patch combo. BUT, when I am out for black bear, I use 100 grains for obvious reason where the accuracy isn't as important. "Loaded for bear"! I guess that's where we got that expression. Anyway, since it's a Lyman GP the manufacturer listed 100 grains of FF and 80 grains of FFF as the MAX. I just want to know what the max charge allowed as a point of referance...safety. I am a hunter as well, and need the most power at times. The new rifle will have a 42 X 7/8th" octagon barrel in .50 cal. So...MAX charge?
I guess we all look at things a bit differently, I hunt with the loads my guns shoot best with, I will always give up a few FPS for a load that will hit as close to the POI as possible, I consider accuracy formost over energy/velocity, the maker of the barrel you use should have the stats on max charges.
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