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"Tweaking" a fowler

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beat me to it :thumbsup:

Most barrel makers have a bending apperatus of some kind.
I enjoy learning from you guy's here, thanks for the knowledge :hatsoff:

Brits.
 
Well,
I just had to go back out to the range and shoot it some more. I got lucky and had one of the more experienced target shooters in our club there working on his BR rifle. I figured out how much to raise my head and move the impact up to POA. Shot 60 shots total, and I'm getting about a 3" group at 25yds and about 5" at 50yds. I did read my patches and noticed I'm getting some blow-by/tearing on all of them. My wads are on their way, so I'll go back out and see how it does once I have them under the PRB.

My conclusions: I can and may use the raised head/lower cheek weld method, but my groups are definitely bigger. When I get a comfortable head position on the stock, my groups run 2" at 25 and 3.5-4" at 50. I definitely want to try some .595 balls, the .600 with a .010 patch require wet patching the bore between shots. I tried to go 2 shots without wiping and had a heck of a time getting the PRB seated on the powder. I miked the bore at .617, so I'm thinking a .595 and ,015 would still give me a good seal.

In the meantime, I'm sure I can put paid on a deer out to 50yds or slightly longer with the current setup. Once the wads arrive, I can check the shot pattern and see where it hit.

For the recommendation to try lowering the powder charge, I went down to 55gr of FFg and worked up to 100gr. My best groups were at 90gr FFg. I tried 3F also, but groups were worse.

Thanks for all the ideas guys, I'll let ya know how it goes once I try the OP wads.

P.S.S.- Rich Pierce flints are the cat's a$$! I'm over 100 shots on one and it's still sparking like the 4th of July.
 
Hey L-Dog went and shot the Curly Tribute TG today. at 25 cut the center out with one big hole, 5 shots. No rear sight. Oh, three of these were shot unpatched. Guys, these smoothies are great.

Dick
 
A lot of new shooters think that their best groups come with heavy powder charges. They have the targets to " Prove it". What they don't understand is that most of the shooter errors are caused by the shooter, NOT THE GUN or the load used.

Years ago, my father was shooting a revolver in .357 Magnum, using target .38 spl ammo. He shot okay at the 25 yard range, but when he put some of the hot .357 Magnum loads in the gun, his groups shrank dramatically.

He was NOT a better shot shooting the heavy loads. They just got the bullets out of the barrel faster than the target ammo did, before his shaking hands moved the barrel enough to open the groups up. He learned that over the years as he shot that gun, with both mid-range wadcutters, and with the magnum loads.

I learned much the same "lesson" with various rifles, including MLers I have shot. more powder simply pushes the ball out of the barrel faster, and you SEEM to be a better shot, or have a more " accurate load", when that is not the case. If you bench rest the gun for the loads, and eliminate as much of the human error as possible, even by having someone else shoot your gun. I found, for instance, that at longer ranges the Bullseye, no matter how " big ", seemed smaller when looking through my open sights, than the bullseye at 25 yards. I shot better groups at the longer ranges ONLY because I was forced to concentrate more on my front sight and sight picture with the longer ranged targets, than at the " easier-to-see" 25 yd. bulls.

There also can be one other thing going on INSIDE your barrel with heavy powder charges: Heavy charges jolt the PRB more, causing it to upset quicker, and expand faster and wider, sealing the bore better to keep the gases behind the PRB, compared to what happens with lighter loads. I found this phenomena disappears when OP vegetable Fiber wads are used behind the PRB, to take over the job of sealing the bore. You also will see this difference when comparing commercial, Swaged RBs, made of lead with antimony in it, to cast RBs made of pure lead. The cast balls prove to be more accurate with the lighter loads, but also shoot tighter groups with hunting charges. The only reason this occurs is because the commercial, harder lead alloy balls do not expand as quickly or as much as do the cast balls, when the gun is fired.

When I was at the Sgt. York Memorial Chunk Gun Shooting Match this past March, virtually all the shooters were using cast RBs- NOT the swaged commercial balls. That in itself is a fairly good recommendation for using Cast lead balls for these guns, when you are looking for best accuracy. :hmm: :thumbsup:
 
Paul,
I agree about using the purest lead you can find and casting your own RBs. These were cast by the previous owner, who just happens to be a heating tech/plumber. This stuff is soft as can be. And yes, faster out the bore is better, reduces the amount of time human error has to work on the ball's trajectory.

That said, today's shooting was from the bench, just trying to get used to the gun and finding a sight picture that would give me the best POA/POI results. I take a notepad and record each shot, load, hold, sight picture, and result.

I'm going to try the OP wads, since I'm getting some blown patches. Hopefully, that will raise POI and help accuracy. From what I've seen and read about smoothbores, this one shoots better than average. I know it's not a rifle, but I still want it to shoot as well as possible.

This is a great resource of knowledge and I appreciate everyone taking the time to give me a hand.
 
Canerod said:
... I did read my patches and noticed I'm getting some blow-by/tearing on all of them. My wads are on their way, so I'll go back out and see how it does once I have them under the PRB.
In the mean time, you could try seating an extra patch on the powder before you load your patched ball. The material of the 2nd patch will be forced into the annulus around the ball on firing, and does a pretty good job of obturating the bore. I often use the patches I police up after shooting for this, and have occasionally used dry (used) cleaning patches. If the material of the extra patch is kind of light, you may find them afterwards badly burned except for the ring that was jammed around the ball - but that ring still held the pressure. On the other hand, I've had some denim patches make four trips downrange, and some of them may waiting their turn for another ride.

Regards,
Joel

p.s. I suggest you don't mention the "f" word (Fadala) around here if you write about that 2-patch technique :stir: . That name seems to generate some... heat... from certain quarters.
 
My short starter is a snug fit and will cup a patch down the bore first a treat. I did this because I was getting scorched patches too. Made all the difference.

Brits.

PS, I like Fadala :haha:
 
Canerod said:
Well,
I miked the bore at .617, so I'm thinking a .595 and ,015 would still give me a good seal.

A good rule of thumb for finding a good place to start finding patch/ball combinations,in a smooth bore, is to subtract the ball dia from the bore dia, then divide by 2.

.617-.595=.022/2= .011 patching. I suspect that a .015 patch with a .595 ball will be hard to get down.

Most smoothbores seem to prefer a ball .030-.040 smaller than bore dia, with an appropriately thick patch,so try something like a .580-.590 with the appropriate patch.

.617-.580=. 037/2=.0185.

IMHO a .022-.025 patch should thumb start but provide a good seal.

God bless
 
OK, by that guideline, my current combo of .600 with a .010 patch is probably the one to stick with, at least until I can find a source of .580 or .585 RBs. It will thumb start with some effort, but requires patching the bore between shots. I'm going to try OP wads next week, once they get here and see how they do with my current setup.

Thanks,

Kevin
 
-----there was a show on TV in a shotgun factory and there was a guy holding a barrel up looking through it--tweaking it just a bit then look through again until straight---SEE MODERN DAY GUN MAKERS DO IT ALSO-----
 
Yeah it's the same one Earle. Groups are good, but it shoots low. I'm still working on it, may still make a set of blocks and try to bring POI up to POA. I'm not sure I'm going to have the time before rendezvous, what with packing everything up for the move.
 
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