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Tweaking a TRS wheellock

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Hemorad

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Hello, all,

This is a continuation of a thread that I started under the title "Source for European walnut?". From there, the thread got sidetracked into discussions about the assembled wheellock I just received from The Rifle Shoppe. I will repost some pictures of the lock here. It appears that the jaws of the dog are angled too far forward to make a pyrite come into solid contact with the wheel. Raszpla has added some very nice sketches to my pictures on the previous post indicating proper position for the dog jaws. I don't think I dare try to cold-bend the arm of the dog. I have a small acetylene torch I could use to heat the arm and put a slightly stronger curve at the top. Anyone have a better idea?

Hemo
Wheellockfront.jpg
Wheelockrear.jpg
Wheelockfrontmag.jpg
wheellockrearinternalview.jpg
 
As I said earlier it is a nice mechanism wheellock,but the mechanism still needs the necessary corrections. I have a problem with the writing and understanding English, So next to the text show pictures of his mechanism, and select the details that you are interested in - I'll answer questions and I'll solve the problem presented.
mechanism is nice!but it is necessary to make many adjustments.

ei6vyw.jpg


2ngya05.jpg


o6kzn4.jpg
 
w pierwszej kolejności sprawdż jak wygląda u ciebie kwestia centrum, i przedstaw to na rysunku. ja pokazuje jak powinno być.

2mmhf11.jpg


This issue is crucial in sealing the system!This is the cardinal question of!
 
To me it doesn't look like the jaw angle is a problem. Since the **** travels in an arch, once you mount a pyrite in the jaws it will lift the **** up (i.e. rotate the **** back a few degrees). It looks like if the **** is rotated back a bit the jaws will align perfectly with the center of the pan.

If you use a very short pyrite, it might rest about where it is now. If you use a pyrite that sticks out of the jaws say 3/8" or so (it's hard to judge an actual measurement from a photo) it will lift the **** up a bit and it looks like everything will be inline. I say just play around with pyrite positioning a bit, it may not need any adjustment.
 
I think I would want to fiddle with it a lot and get used its form and each parts function. then test fire it a few dozen times. Then stare at it a lot. Then decide if it need any alteration. That is one cool looking lock, and properly finished, will be even cooler!! Good luck with the project. :thumbsup:
Robby
 
I agree a long pyrite might bring the nose of the jaws into proper alignment, but finding long pyrites might be a bit of a problem. If you look at Raszpla's locks, with pyrite in place, they are very short pieces of cube crystal pyrite. I don't have any pyrites yet, and unfortunately my local rock shop just went out of business (bet they had the nice cube crystal pieces!)so I'm looking for an alternate source. Raszpla says he can sell me some, but I'd like to find a source closer to home than Poland.

Hemo
 
Go to amazon dot com, and put pyrites in the search wind, there's lots of sources.

Bill
 
Thanks, Bill, I saw some on E-bay, but haven't checked Amazon yet. I'll give them a try.

Hemo
 
I have found some good pyrites (bright square crystals) and have tried them in my lock. I haven't yet bent the arm of the dog to center the pyrite on the wheel, but I can make the pyrite contact the wheel fairly well. When test sparking, I get very few sparks. Should I cut some transverse grooves in the wheel to improve sparking?

Hemo
 
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