Two I cobbled together a while back.

[Waterboyark]

Both are Dixie Gunworks cast iron/steel tube liner construction. I have fired both with #3 projectiles but more often used a lighter concrete. The bores are 2.25" and a Hilts #3 cannonball fishing mould is perfect for only about $35.

I pattered the Mortar after a much larger picture of a piece used in the Mexican war then later on the Confederate side. I used a scale and simply sized it down. It's red oak.

The truck is from Cypress and painted thick (even wheels - wood axle). I wanted something to roll under recoil. Not a pattern of anything really just serviceable.

I did get some good reference materials and researched before I started toying. Need some sighting stuff now.

I prefer cannon fuse as I really don't want anyone close while it is firing. Just to be safer.

 

[buzz]

Nice wh7at are you casting in the mold i have simular barrel on order from herm they supply dixie with barrels

 

[Waterboyark]

Actually I cast straight wheelweight metal I use for ctg. gun cast bullets. I clean and flux it so I just use some cannonballs for ingots. The HILTS #3 cannonball sinker mould is perfect and cheap! I was thinking of trying some masonary type projectiles but it would be slow. I was thinking of using short sections of PVC 2" I.D. pipe filled with cement. However it needs some type of internal cross members to prevent the blast from blowing the centers out of the PVC "jacket". A simple circular mould to make "wadcutters" would be fine. I have read that it is preferable to have about 0.100" slop or "windage" as they call it between the projectile and bore size. Of course no patching, like a longarm. You need that sloppy fit to keep pressures down. It's a big peashooter.

*On display in my office I paint the lead balls with Krylon spray paint that is also for painted surfaces. It's great. This is to "coat" the lead for anyone, or kids, handling the balls then eating a baloney sandwich without washing hands! lol

There was an old book I snagged about 20 yrs. ago "The Complete Cannoneer" I garnered some great info from. However I have seen used copies asking over $200!

I use 700-1000 gr. by volume of the most coarse BP or Pyrodex I can find. PLace in plastic baggies, fold into small charcoal brick sized pillows, and then wrap in a thin layer of tin foil. These make up the "powder ctgs." It is moisture proof and the tinfoil keeps sparks at bay. Inserted in the bore I use a sharp pic to bust holes in the pwd. ctg. to insert fresh 3/32" cannon fuse. Remember there is a literally 20" flame blast out of that 1/4" fuse touchole!

I also read that about 1 oz. of powder per inch of bore size is a good max. limit. Pushing it is not going to be any more dramatic or performance enhancing. My max. is 1000 gr.coarse powder and a 3 lb. projectile with lots of bore clearance. My tubes mic about 2.35" and those cast balls about 2.25".

I'd love to help anyway I can.

 

[buzz]

I used ã20 oz fishing weight cast some balls
But theyare .10 over sized to fit my bore and i need windage on top of that
Im turning some pvc pipe to a correct dia and it have an end cap to make quikset concrete slugs worth a try

 

[Scharms]

Beautiful stuff Waterboy, impressive sir! :hatsoff:

 

[Waterboyark]

The four wheel truck is my response to wanting something to give under recoil. I was very new at this point. It works just fine and rolls 10-12' upon firing depleting lots of stresses. I need to work on sighting some and will implement some type of lazer device (I know but I want simple results). Some type of more historic device can come later. The Mortar is best with the old time tested methods. Sticks and strings. The angle is adjustable but huge differences in range between 65-80 degrees!!! KInda scary and demands respect.