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Type "F" transmission fluid

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I was told the same thing by TVM to use type "F" on my rifle and wood. He claimed it would also act as a rust preventer for the slow rust browning. Can't bring myself to do it. I use rem-oil on my barrel after cleaning, inside and out. Works good so far.
 
First of all, ATF is supposed to be a Synthetic Whale Oil...
Use Goggle and stick in Ed's Red and read about it...
But another gun maker (in Penns) also recommends the same thing... I was highly dubious, to say the least. A friend of mine used it on a gun that had curl but it was not really obvious when it was new. He applied ATF and in about two weeks he said it was like having a new gun - the curl just popped out...
So, if TVM is recommending it - and you like curl - I would go for it...
Redhand in Hawaii - BTW - It can't hurt... because I have been using Ed's Red in my other guns for about 10 years.

Ed's Red Cut and Paste---An inexpensive, effective substitute for sperm oil is Dexron (II, IIe orIII) automatic transmission fluid. Prior to about 1950 that most ATF'swere sperm oil based, but during WWII a synthetic was developed for use in precision instruments. With the great demand for automatic transmission autos after WWII, sperm oil was no longer practical to produce ATF in the quantity demanded, so the synthetic material became the basis for the Dexron fluids we know today. The additives in ATFs which include organometallic antioxidants and surfactants, make it
highly suitable for our intended purpose.
 
Ed's Red is a terrific smokeless powder solvent. I haven't tried it on BP as the only solvent I use in ML's or for BP ctg. guns is water. Ed's Red works perfectly for it's designed use as stated above. It may work on BP fouling, but then water is cheaper to aquire. I'm niot too sure about the ingredients as BP solvents. If you want to buy BP solvent, i suggest one of the excellent products designed for it.
: For those who don't know what it is, Ed's Red has Mineral oil, Tranny oil, Kerosine & Acetone for it's composition. It was developed by a Bench Rest shooter as a superior smokeless powder solvent that was cheap to make. It is not a good copper solvent and there are much better lead solvents.
Daryl
 
Darly i agree that water is the about the best for bp fouling.Ed recomened a 50/50 mix of aft and oderless kerosen for a gun oil also.
i didnt have any kerosen so i used the orderless mineral spirits with the aft.After the water flush i dry patched and then used this mix on one gun.Been 2 weeks and the bore looks fine.It seemed pretty thin for gun oil but it is really slick.Aint decided wheather to dry patch it out before i shoot again or remove it all togeather.Might just dry patch it to see what real effect it has on the fouling.
 
whoops :eek: that was atf,dexron 3 to be exact.Not aft,what ever that is,ah heck it werent even a flintlock.Was a blackpowder rifle though ::
 
I use tranny fluid all the time to harden springs and sears etc. but that's as close as it comes to any of my guns
 
Most of the BR guys use Hoppe's#9 as a gun oil preservative between shoots. This stuff has an extremely thin oil in it and that's the only reason it's used - for the oil content.
; Too many other solvents are better for both powder and copper fouling to waste time using it as solvent.
: For BP - well we do need an oil after cleaning for between shoots and the oil that's in WD40 works for me - talk about thin! I use WD40 or Amsoil MP due to their good water displacement properties. What remains protects the bore just fine, yet doesn't foul the vent on either ignition system as heavier oils will. Ive found with either, snapping a cap or pricking the touchhole isn't necessary after using these water displacers as oil.
 
I usally use breekfree clp,i always clean it out with rubbing alkey before i shoot.It would be nice to take the alkey out of my preshooten ordeal.Do you just dry patch the wd40 out before shooten?
Ive heard good things about it and many people use it,ive also heard bad things about it also.I know its a good penatrating oil and water displacement.I know Dutch Schultz was sold on it.
Ive never used it but inquiring minds want to know. :)
 
If a week lays between shooting sessions, the fluid will have evapourated and no patching is necessary before shooting. On the other hand, if still wet with WD40, a dry patch down the barrel is all that's needed with a flinter plus snapping a cap for the perc. gun.
 
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