- Joined
- Dec 25, 2011
- Messages
- 9,497
- Reaction score
- 4,656
Well, if a sear or hammer full cock notch can be filed it isn't near hard enough in my experience. Mike D.
if you curl up spring more tension if you flatten a little less tension.. i did it to mine is very smooth now.. also before the last two clicks were together now i get 3 clicks perfectly timedI've seen all the complaints about too heavy triggers on 1858, my new one from Uberti has 1.5 lb. trigger pull. tightening trigger/bolt spring screw does little but increase bolt tension against cylinder...And running main spring screw in did not change it either. I suppose I could take T/M spring out and put more of a bend into trigger side of spring. But, wonder how long that would last. Would like at least a 3# pull for a recreational revolver like this, without excessive bolt pressure making deeper drag marks on cylinder.. any experience here appreciated...
Let me encourage a safety test for you to try on your gun. Fully cock it then with a piece of wood or rawhide hammer smartly rap the frame ahead of the trigger guard where their is good mass and no chance of marring or deforming any metal. If the hammer drops then we have an unsafe condition that needs correcting. This usually means a file and stone dress of both the trigger nose and full cock notch on the hammer. Often new guns will have wire edges on these contact surfaces that need dressed off or re-set. The interface angles between hammer nose and trigger sear face need to be equal, square and make full width contact.I've seen all the complaints about too heavy triggers on 1858, my new one from Uberti has 1.5 lb. trigger pull. tightening trigger/bolt spring screw does little but increase bolt tension against cylinder...And running main spring screw in did not change it either. I suppose I could take T/M spring out and put more of a bend into trigger side of spring. But, wonder how long that would last. Would like at least a 3# pull for a recreational revolver like this, without excessive bolt pressure making deeper drag marks on cylinder.. any experience here appreciatedL
I should clarify that on trigger and hammer interfaces I use diamond files and stones designed for hard steel cutting and dressing not steel cutting regular tooth files.Let me encourage a safety test for you to try on your gun. Fully cock it then with a piece of wood or rawhide hammer smartly rap the frame ahead of the trigger guard where their is good mass and no chance of marring or deforming any metal. If the hammer drops then we have an unsafe condition that needs correcting. This usually means a file and stone dress of both the trigger nose and full cock notch on the hammer. Often new guns will have wire edges on these contact surfaces that need dressed off or re-set. The interface angles between hammer nose and trigger sear face need to be equal, square and make full width contact.
I generally have to install a lift under the full cock notch on the hammer that partially reduces the contact height of the interface to safely reduce the pull weight and creep. It must pass the knock off test previously described for the arm to be deemed safe.
Never cut down the full cock notch height of the hammer or your trigger sear/nose will catch on the half cock notch and bugger both.
Enter your email address to join: