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Uberti 1862 pocket not detonating caps
- Thread starter Millermpls
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montanatim
36 Cl.
I had stuck nipples once and made the wrench from a socket as you did. I then put the cylinder in a wooden jawed vice and used a 12 volt impact screw driver. They came right out as if by magic when no amount of hand work or ratchet handles would work.
Something to keep in mind about clamping a cylinder in a vise, even with wooden jaws is it's real easy to crush black powder cylinders. Especially if the jaws are located over the chambers.
The cylinders are not made out of modern high strength steel like a modern revolvers cylinder is.
I mentioned a safer way to keep the cylinder from turning. For those who don't want to try to find it I said,
"By the way, to keep the cylinder from turning while you are trying to unscrew the nipple, if you have a vise, do not clamp the cylinder in the vise. Find two pieces of wooden dowel or metal rods that fit the chambers and stick them into two of the chambers that are opposite each other. Then, clamp the two pieces of dowel that are sticking out of the chamber mouths."
The cylinders are not made out of modern high strength steel like a modern revolvers cylinder is.
I mentioned a safer way to keep the cylinder from turning. For those who don't want to try to find it I said,
"By the way, to keep the cylinder from turning while you are trying to unscrew the nipple, if you have a vise, do not clamp the cylinder in the vise. Find two pieces of wooden dowel or metal rods that fit the chambers and stick them into two of the chambers that are opposite each other. Then, clamp the two pieces of dowel that are sticking out of the chamber mouths."
Millermpls
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Btw, thanks To Zonie for the tip to buy a specific wrench and replacement nipples for the 1862. TotW had the former in stock, and the stuck nipple came out like butter. It didn't even strike me that the three other wrenches I owned wouldn't cover what I needed. We'll see if I can set the OEM nipples and get consistent strikes, otherwise will back order replacements from TotW.
In any event, it gave me an excuse to buy a variety of patches and balls to try in the Howdah hunter next spring (high temp was a blistering 5 degrees today, it just ain't fun at that temp).
In any event, it gave me an excuse to buy a variety of patches and balls to try in the Howdah hunter next spring (high temp was a blistering 5 degrees today, it just ain't fun at that temp).
While we're talking about cap & ball revolvers, if the nipples are the correct length, the hammer will never touch them when the hammer is all the way down.
The hammer on all cap & ball pistols stops somewhere on the frame, not on the nipple.
For those interested, the hammer should clear the end of the nipple cone by .005 to .020 when the cylinder is pushed all the way to the rear against the recoil shield.
The cap thickness plus the priming compound thickness is greater than .030 so it will always be crushed when the hammer falls.
A lot of people talk about dry firing one of these pistols and it damaging the nipple. If the correct length nipple is installed, the hammer will never hit it, even when dry fired.
Now, I'm not saying this is true with any specific gun. There are a lot of reproduction pistols that have nipples that are too long and these will get hit by the hammer so beware of dry firing these incorrect guns or better yet, carefully file off the tapered end of the nipple cone so it doesn't get clobbered.
The hammer on all cap & ball pistols stops somewhere on the frame, not on the nipple.
For those interested, the hammer should clear the end of the nipple cone by .005 to .020 when the cylinder is pushed all the way to the rear against the recoil shield.
The cap thickness plus the priming compound thickness is greater than .030 so it will always be crushed when the hammer falls.
A lot of people talk about dry firing one of these pistols and it damaging the nipple. If the correct length nipple is installed, the hammer will never hit it, even when dry fired.
Now, I'm not saying this is true with any specific gun. There are a lot of reproduction pistols that have nipples that are too long and these will get hit by the hammer so beware of dry firing these incorrect guns or better yet, carefully file off the tapered end of the nipple cone so it doesn't get clobbered.
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That is indeed true from design perspective and properly fit guns but what often occurs over time is hammer nose and frame metal compression from repeated impact, allows eventual nipple contact in some guns.
I've seen it on the frames of 58 Remingtons and hammer noses of open top guns.
This would be of prime concern in open top guns with brass frames that allow the cylinder to eventually set back into the recoil shield.
Hammers in open top guns can be arrested from contact by the arbor end in the frame but I don't feel that is a very good idea either as it too will eventually loosen from repeated impact.
I've seen it on the frames of 58 Remingtons and hammer noses of open top guns.
This would be of prime concern in open top guns with brass frames that allow the cylinder to eventually set back into the recoil shield.
Hammers in open top guns can be arrested from contact by the arbor end in the frame but I don't feel that is a very good idea either as it too will eventually loosen from repeated impact.
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