Uberti Quality?

[DevilsLuck]

I feel you got a defective product. SEND it back. Call the seller you purchased it from and have them send return information and a PICK-UP order.

If they do not I would charge it back as defective product with my credit card company. There is no reason to accept faulty products.

Thank you. I hope the exchange is a simple matter. And one that doesn’t require additional expense on my part.

 

[Tobee]

Last week I sent a Pietta 1873 percussion revolver back to Dixie. Needed to explain the issue to a customer service person and then to their gunsmith. Cylinder stop wouldn't lock on 2 cylinder notches which were cut too shallow. They emailed me a UPS second day return label. They received the revolver today and reversed the charge on the credit card. They are easy to talk to. If you're not happy, state your case and send it back, imho.

Also got a 1861 Uberti navy, same time, with the hammer looking like yours. Maybe not as bad. Haven't shot the gun yet but I expect to file on the hammer notch to move the POI to hit center (more or less). Issue with the revolver is the barrel cylinder gap is 4 thou (tight) and tapping the wedge in locks the cylinder tight. Think I can fix this myself. Researching now. Hope this helps you.

 

[DevilsLuck]

Last week I sent a Pietta 1873 percussion revolver back to Dixie. Needed to explain the issue to a customer service person and then to their gunsmith. Cylinder stop wouldn't lock on 2 cylinder notches which were cut too shallow. They emailed me a UPS second day return label. They received the revolver today and reversed the charge on the credit card. They are easy to talk to. If you're not happy, state your case and send it back, imho.

Also got a 1861 Uberti navy, same time, with the hammer looking like yours. Maybe not as bad. Haven't shot the gun yet but I expect to file on the hammer notch to move the POI to hit center (more or less). Issue with the revolver is the barrel cylinder gap is 4 thou (tight) and tapping the wedge in locks the cylinder tight. Think I can fix this myself. Researching now. Hope this helps you.

Thank you for sharing your experience. I’m not quite as knowledgeable or handy in BP as you. As such I hope for a functional example; although belated in delivery... Things happen. I get it...

 

[BlackHillsBob]

i tweek every revolver i have ever bought. new springs. machine marks taken out and repolished. even reblued that i do my self. as to piettas or what ever they are called. too much tweeking to make them as i like my guns, perfect. uberti is WAY better.
ask me what my favorite uberti colt is, ALL OF THEM.

 

[bang]

• 
  View attachment 9364 View attachment 9363 Hello. I’m new to black powder. I recently purchased a used 1860 Army in well used condition, of unknown manufacture. The date stamp on it indicated it was made in 1966, (XXII) according to a site I referenced. Well... I really had fun shooting it; but given the overall looseness, accuracy was less than optimal. So I decided to try out a brand spanking new one.
  After searching the web for opinions on which 1860 to buy; I was down to Uberti, or Pietta.
  I went with Uberti. For two reasons. One being that it was stamped, such that the roll marks didn’t detract from the elegant lines of the pistol. And two; because more common than not, the reviews claimed better quality in the Ubertis.
  Well... my Uberti 1860 Army arrived today. So quite eagerly I unboxed it, rubbed off the excess oil, worked the action to see how it compared to my “old one”... Seems great! So I cocked the hammer to look down the sights... And that’s when I saw it... The hammer... it had a chip in it. Now this doesn’t seem to be the kind of chip one might get from dry firing either. This chip is present right where the v-notch is; and the metal at the point of the chip is not only showing the crystalline structure chipped metal shows... but the case hardening finish was clearly done after the chip was made...
  So... back this gun goes.
  Now I tell you all of that; so I can ask you this. “Should I give Uberti another shot? Or should I just get a pietta, and live with the gaudy stamping in a high visibility area?” “Is this the the current standard of quality with Ubertis nowadays? Or did I just happen to have a stroke of bad luck?”

Apples and oranges. I have 1 uberti. Haven't shot it a lot but it functions fine. I have 7 others. 1 rogers and spencer that's 46 years old and only issue was hand spring after poot load of rounds, typical. Others are pietta, all 20 years old. Never had any issues not even a nipple. So it comes down to you. What you choose to believe and are willing to spend for a plinker versus a smokeless. As long as it in the shape you require when you get it. The future quality it remains in is up to how you treat it when using it and the maintenance provided it.

 

[DevilsLuck]

Apples and oranges. I have 1 uberti. Haven't shot it a lot but it functions fine. I have 7 others. 1 rogers and spencer that's 46 years old and only issue was hand spring after poot load of rounds, typical. Others are pietta, all 20 years old. Never had any issues not even a nipple. So it comes down to you. What you choose to believe and are willing to spend for a plinker versus a smokeless. As long as it in the shape you require when you get it. The future quality it remains in is up to how you treat it when using it and the maintenance provided it.

I hope to treat it right, and get many educational years out of it. It’s just that when it comes to dings, scratches, and other marks of “character”... I want to be the one to put em’ there. I’ve got a lot to learn about BP. And I wanted to start out right, and with a clean slate. I figure having a blemish out of the box would put me out, during the time I should be focusing on more substantive matters.

 

[DevilsLuck]

i tweek every revolver i have ever bought. new springs. machine marks taken out and repolished. even reblued that i do my self. as to piettas or what ever they are called. too much tweeking to make them as i like my guns, perfect. uberti is WAY better.
ask me what my favorite uberti colt is, ALL OF THEM.

I hope to learn enough to tweak my own BPs in time... But to start out, I think it best if I learn to use a standard quality, functional example first. Besides... The 1860 is too pretty to start my first new buy with a blem. That’s what buying used is for. With them; it’s expected. I’ll have enough to busy myself with, without trying to blame my lack of skill on bad sights, or Uberti...

 

[SDSmlf]

Have owned and shot Uberti, Pietta, Colt, Remington, Ruger and other manufacturers percussion revolvers. As far a current ‘production’ quality, Uberti and Pietta are similar. Neither are very durable. My major complaint is that the cylinders are made from steel that is only a little tougher than aluminum. If you are planning to admire and occasionally shoot, either will do. In order to keep them running, I ultimately made a deburring tool out of HSS to deburr and clean the cylinder stop pocket after each SASS match. If I didn’t clean the pocket after each session it wasn’t long before the pocket would peen shut and result in the cylinder would progressively advance too far as the gun was rapidly cocked. The cylinder stop would no longer fit in the cylinder slot. Rugers, while spectacularly ugly and representing no historical firearm, were durable enough to run endlessly.

 

[DevilsLuck]

Have owned and shot Uberti, Pietta, Colt, Remington, Ruger and other manufacturers percussion revolvers. As far a current ‘production’ quality, Uberti and Pietta are similar. Neither are very durable. My major complaint is that the cylinders are made from steel that is only a little tougher than aluminum. If you are planning to admire and occasionally shoot, either will do. In order to keep them running, I ultimately made a deburring tool out of HSS to deburr and clean the cylinder stop pocket after each SASS match. If I didn’t clean the pocket after each session it wasn’t long before the pocket would peen shut and result in the cylinder would progressively advance too far as the gun was rapidly cocked. The cylinder stop would no longer fit in the cylinder slot. Rugers, while spectacularly ugly and representing no historical firearm, were durable enough to run endlessly.

Well I do plan on shooting the heck out of this thing, when I get the defect issue straightened out. I guess if it doesn’t hold up to regular use, I’ll have to reconsider my brand choice. Or BP in general. I’m new to BP shooting, and tried to make an informed purchase. I guess I’ll see how it goes in the long run. I’d even be able to live with a subtle, cosmetic blemish as I do intend to shoot the snot out of this thing.
Unfortunately this defect is located such that I’d have to stare at it every single time I looked down the sights to fire it. Maybe after time, and with more experience I’ll decide to get something “higher end”. Though I actually thought that was what I was doing when I chose Uberti. I guess we’ll see how things shake out...

 

[Rockvillerich]

• 
  View attachment 9364 View attachment 9363 Hello. I’m new to black powder. I recently purchased a used 1860 Army in well used condition, of unknown manufacture. The date stamp on it indicated it was made in 1966, (XXII) according to a site I referenced. Well... I really had fun shooting it; but given the overall looseness, accuracy was less than optimal. So I decided to try out a brand spanking new one.
  After searching the web for opinions on which 1860 to buy; I was down to Uberti, or Pietta.
  I went with Uberti. For two reasons. One being that it was stamped, such that the roll marks didn’t detract from the elegant lines of the pistol. And two; because more common than not, the reviews claimed better quality in the Ubertis.
  Well... my Uberti 1860 Army arrived today. So quite eagerly I unboxed it, rubbed off the excess oil, worked the action to see how it compared to my “old one”... Seems great! So I cocked the hammer to look down the sights... And that’s when I saw it... The hammer... it had a chip in it. Now this doesn’t seem to be the kind of chip one might get from dry firing either. This chip is present right where the v-notch is; and the metal at the point of the chip is not only showing the crystalline structure chipped metal shows... but the case hardening finish was clearly done after the chip was made...
  So... back this gun goes.
  Now I tell you all of that; so I can ask you this. “Should I give Uberti another shot? Or should I just get a pietta, and live with the gaudy stamping in a high visibility area?” “Is this the the current standard of quality with Ubertis nowadays? Or did I just happen to have a stroke of bad luck?”

I'd go for another Uberti. I own several of both, and the Ubertis are generally have cleaner machining, and fewer "boo boos". You just got one that slipped by the inspectors.

 

[DevilsLuck]

Well... I called this morning to arrange an exchange, as the person I needed to speak to wasn't in yesterday. Turns out she wasn't in today either. The person I spoke with didn't seem too concerned with my dilemma. When I explained that I tried to call yesterday, I was informed that " people do take vacations you know..?" Then a stretch of silence. I thought perhaps she might suggest a better time to call to arrange an exchange. But no, I had to ask. I was told she was supposed to be out all week, but might be in Wednesday... I'm not sure how others are used to handling things of this nature, but one would think you’d have a back up plan for handling such matters. Or at least offer up what course of action the customer needed to do. But no. I had to ask...
So I asked if there was anyone else who could handle the return/exchange? She said "well I guess I can ask if so-and-so can do it..." and was put on hold.
Now why wouldn't this have been the first course of action? I don't get it... This didn't really come across as friendly “customer service", as I'm acustomed to... But she came back on the line and told me that the return label would be emailed, so I guess that takes care of that. But honestly... I hope the exchange goes more smoothly, than figuring out how to do the exchange did... Frustrating...

 

[DevilsLuck]

I usually grind the nose back and deepen the sight notch. Depending on the depth the chip it might not be an issue at all for me.

Do you happen to have a picture of the modifications you’ve made?

 

[FishDFly]

In such situations I ask for the owner.

Another option is placing a review of Dixie on their website about your problems and frustrations.

Dixie is not on my places to shop. I prefer dealing with Taylor's, much nicer folks to deal with.

If it were me, I would return it to Dixie, get a credit on my card and call Taylor's.

I do not spend my money and be miserable.

 

[Tom A Hawk]

I can take a photo is needed, however the modification results in a hammer nose that looks exactly like the original, just shorter. I use a dremel cut off wheel to deepen the notch and a different grinding wheel to shorten the nose. Same profile and sight picture as the stock hammer. I find the tendency for the Colt designs to shoot excessively high a bit troubling.

 

[DevilsLuck]

In such situations I ask for the owner.

Another option is placing a review of Dixie on their website about your problems and frustrations.

I don’t want to leave what could be construed as a “bad review” on account of one persons inability to help. It seems that customer service wasn’t her primary function. I hope... But it seemed like I had to pry the info out of her, as she certainly wasn’t offering anything up. Not the best experience, to be honest. I haven’t received the emailed RMA yet, and if it doesn’t come after a bit, I don’t look forward to calling back. It has me considering taking my lumps, keeping what I got; and going a different direction in the future...

 

[DevilsLuck]

I can take a photo is needed, however the modification results in a hammer nose that looks exactly like the original, just shorter. I use a dremel cut off wheel to deepen the notch and a different grinding wheel to shorten the nose. Same profile and sight picture as the stock hammer. I find the tendency for the Colt designs to shoot excessively high a bit troubling.

A pic would be great. It could help me assess whether doing so on mine might do away with the blemish. Is this a standard mod people do on their colts? In other words is this mod something I likely would have done anyway?

 

[Tom A Hawk]

A pic would be great. It could help me assess whether doing so on mine might do away with the blemish. Is this a standard mod people do on their colts?

OK. I'll take couple of photos. I can't speak for others but I've been doing it for 20 years. I see "Duelist1954" on you tube has a video on the procedure up now.



In other words is this mod something I likely would have done anyway?

Only if you intend to hit where you aim...

Dragoon on the left, 1860 on the right.

 

[DevilsLuck]

Only if you intend to hit where you aim...

Dragoon on the left, 1860 on the right.
View attachment 9395

Wow! The Dragoon looks huge next to the Army.

 

[Flintlock_bob]

My first Uberti was a new Remington and I was very happy with the quality. My second was a new 1860 Colt and it looked good but the fit of parts was junk and I had to send it back. The replacement was very nice but the pin on the hammer that operates the cylinder bolt timing wore out quickly so I had to replace the hammer.

Like you I don't like the blackpowder warnings down the side of the barrel so I stick with Uberti.

 

[Tom A Hawk]

Wow! The Dragoon looks huge next to the Army.

Yes indeed. At 4 lbs.it is a twohandsgun. They were carried in pommel holsters on horseback.