I have been reading the comments and come up with a sort of plan.
First I am working on a ROA. I won't say money is no object, but we worked hard to get to where I could quit work and we don't spend much so I can pay for one even at the higher prices. I am glad I can't remember what BP revolver I had back in the 70s, if it was an ROA I would be kicking myself.
I am also giving thought to the 48 Walker, it appeals to me. I can pay for both. I don't have to be able to hold it Standing, I have done some hand rest work with my other pistols and for accuracy rested tells me where they are hitting and good or less good for whatever is going down the spout. I still shoot free standing but that is for HD reasons (I also shoot left handed from time to time, my stint on the Police Course showed I could do that pretty well and I had not tried it before that). As near as I can figure I am quasi ambidextrous, mostly right handed but some stuff I do naturally left handed (I had to learn to run a skillsaw left handed when I messed up my right wrist, did fine, actually for me a worm drive is more natural the way they are setup for a leftie - I never went back to right hand cutting with one!)
The work on the 48 Walker does not so much intimidate me (I spent a lot of years making odd jigs and tools to get jobs done) as it puzzles me that an issue like that would still be going on. I can see the ASP NMA having issues as early as it was but 40 years latter and quality control problems like the Arbor? I got the ASP working pretty good with a modified bolt, though to really get it I am thinking a jig that duplicated the positioning of the working parts would be good. Something pretty subtle going on in the ASP though happy enough with it for now.
The one aspect that did and does puzzle me is the muzzle gap that is either there or is created by adjustments. At best it would be uneven and worst it would bind, so some head scratching there. I can see if the barrel frame contacts wrong that adjusting it would even up the gap but it seems like it would also widen it (also see if its uneven then it would widen the top and the bottom would narrow, hmmm)
First I am working on a ROA. I won't say money is no object, but we worked hard to get to where I could quit work and we don't spend much so I can pay for one even at the higher prices. I am glad I can't remember what BP revolver I had back in the 70s, if it was an ROA I would be kicking myself.
I am also giving thought to the 48 Walker, it appeals to me. I can pay for both. I don't have to be able to hold it Standing, I have done some hand rest work with my other pistols and for accuracy rested tells me where they are hitting and good or less good for whatever is going down the spout. I still shoot free standing but that is for HD reasons (I also shoot left handed from time to time, my stint on the Police Course showed I could do that pretty well and I had not tried it before that). As near as I can figure I am quasi ambidextrous, mostly right handed but some stuff I do naturally left handed (I had to learn to run a skillsaw left handed when I messed up my right wrist, did fine, actually for me a worm drive is more natural the way they are setup for a leftie - I never went back to right hand cutting with one!)
The work on the 48 Walker does not so much intimidate me (I spent a lot of years making odd jigs and tools to get jobs done) as it puzzles me that an issue like that would still be going on. I can see the ASP NMA having issues as early as it was but 40 years latter and quality control problems like the Arbor? I got the ASP working pretty good with a modified bolt, though to really get it I am thinking a jig that duplicated the positioning of the working parts would be good. Something pretty subtle going on in the ASP though happy enough with it for now.
The one aspect that did and does puzzle me is the muzzle gap that is either there or is created by adjustments. At best it would be uneven and worst it would bind, so some head scratching there. I can see if the barrel frame contacts wrong that adjusting it would even up the gap but it seems like it would also widen it (also see if its uneven then it would widen the top and the bottom would narrow, hmmm)
