Come on guys!!! You need a protractor, a divider, slide rule, machinest's ruler, a micrometer and a feeler gage with .0015", .002", .0025" and .003" leaves.
Throw all of them in a drawer except for the feeler gage.
- Cut the head of a #14 stainless steel Pan Head sheet metal screw. There, that's all the "spacer" you need.
- Drop it round side down into the arbor hole. The "round" part of the head will self level in the drill point of the hole. Install the arbor and check for contact at the barrel lug/ frame. There will be space there so sand the flat side of the spacer to reduce thickness and check again.
-When contact is made, start driving the wedge in ( as soon as you can) while you check the endshake. Keep reducing the spacer until you get to the endshake you want. That's all there is to it and all the "measuring" you need to do. Very simple.
Tips-
To speed things up, I use a bench belt sander and a drill motor with a Philips head bit. I stop thinning the spacer when endshake gets to about. 004" and start reducing the end of the arbor for a more controlled "zeroing in" on my .0025" - .003" tolerance.
Doing it this way increases the total wedge slot slightly but I regain it with my set screw (adjustable wedge bearing) in the arbor for the wedge. Been doing it this way for 10 years!
Oh, for belt pistols ( Army's/ Navy's) use a #12 pan head screw.
Mike
Edit- Dang !!! Didn't think about that Hawkeye!!!