Ubertti 48 Walker Questions

[Smokerr]

I am looking at a hand cannon options, the Uberti Walker certainly qualifies (and looking into a Ruger Old Army as well)

What has me bothered about the Uberti Walker is the comments about frame fit and various quality control issues. I am not incapable on miner fixes but all the ones that seem to be needed on the Uberti puts it into a get it and send it off for a complete go through by one of the experts and I can deal with anything that comes up from there.

So I am looking for good supported views of anyone that has bought one of those in the last year or two and or previous and then more current buys on experience with them. Highest concern is wedge issues and the Spindle aspect that is being reported as affecting the front to the frame fit and tightness/loosening of the wedge and if not addressed wind up with loose fit/issues as well as cylinder to Forcing Cone gap.

 

[M. De Land]

I am looking at a hand cannon options, the Uberti Walker certainly qualifies (and looking into a Ruger Old Army as well)

What has me bothered about the Uberti Walker is the comments about frame fit and various quality control issues. I am not incapable on miner fixes but all the ones that seem to be needed on the Uberti puts it into a get it and send it off for a complete go through by one of the experts and I can deal with anything that comes up from there.

So I am looking for good supported views of anyone that has bought one of those in the last year or two and or previous and then more current buys on experience with them. Highest concern is wedge issues and the Spindle aspect that is being reported as affecting the front to the frame fit and tightness/loosening of the wedge and if not addressed wind up with loose fit/issues as well as cylinder to Forcing Cone gap.

I have both and they both needed worked on to bring them to full potential. The Ruger is more dialed in from the factory but still needs a trigger job and usually can stand some timing tune up !
I understand it is different when one needs to send them off to be tuned up but pretty much the same is true of even modern revolvers as factory spec only takes them so far in what is possible of them.
This is purely economically driven but is a reality if one wants top performance.

 

[CaptainVane]

I was going to get a Walker. What turned me off is the falling ramrod. Ya, it still happens 180 years later. I didnt want to deal with that.

 

[sethwyo]

Have really enjoyed the Walker for over 20 years.
Have owned an lost several but recently acquired another.
The only problem I have with a colt style, although I have not had this on the Walker models I have possessed, is that the sights are not properly aligned and sometimes a colt style will shoot way off to the side too much. This will likely be remedied by adjusting the hammer.
The falling ramrod can be remedied with a leather strap, as probably some men in the 1800s did , although most of them probably never thought about doing it, or
Get one of the second or third models maybe.
I personally don't like to give my guns to somebody else to file on the actions, I would rather learn how to do it myself and do it the way I want it done.
If you want to get a feel for the feel, timing and action of a gun go look at some of them at the gun shows so you can handle them and try the action before you buy it.

Just some advice, I hope you have as much fun with your muzzleloaders as I do with mine

 

[Ed C.]

I was going to get a Walker. What turned me off is the falling ramrod. Ya, it still happens 180 years later. I didnt want to deal with that.

Luck of the draw..... I shoot mine quite a bit and never has the ramrod dropped. Usually shooting 44 grains but I have shot 50 with still no problems.

 

[Ed C.]

The walker is no more of a problem to set up than any other open top Uberti. Most can stand to have the arbors shimmed out. Plenty of advice on that in the forum if you do a search. IMO it does not shed spent caps as well as most of the other BP revolvers...more binding between the cylinder and recoil shield but not a big deal. A whole lot of fun to shoot!

 

[45D]

I am looking at a hand cannon options, the Uberti Walker certainly qualifies (and looking into a Ruger Old Army as well)

What has me bothered about the Uberti Walker is the comments about frame fit and various quality control issues. I am not incapable on miner fixes but all the ones that seem to be needed on the Uberti puts it into a get it and send it off for a complete go through by one of the experts and I can deal with anything that comes up from there.

So I am looking for good supported views of anyone that has bought one of those in the last year or two and or previous and then more current buys on experience with them. Highest concern is wedge issues and the Spindle aspect that is being reported as affecting the front to the frame fit and tightness/loosening of the wedge and if not addressed wind up with loose fit/issues as well as cylinder to Forcing Cone gap.

Smokerr, you don't necessarily have to send your Walker off to someone else to have a correctly functioning revolver. There are numerous threads pertaining to correcting the arbor length which will solve your wedge issues and keep your Walker from self-destruction ( proper setup like the originals is always better). As you've pointed out, the arbor length IS what determines the barrel/cylinder gap ( endshake on a non-bushing / non- gas ring cyl).

As for the lever falling, filing a flat on top of the nub on the spring will engage the lever more positively and keep that from happening.

I personally don't like to give my guns to somebody else to file on the actions, I would rather learn how to do it myself and do it the way I want it done.
If you want to get a feel for the feel, timing and action of a gun go look at some of them at the gun shows so you can handle them and try the action before you buy it.

It's perfectly understandable that you'd want to "diy" ( that's how I started !!!) but I would "discourage" trying to "figure it out yourself". There is a definite sequence for timing that leaves little room on "either side" for "experimentation". (handling a bunch of "ill timed" revolvers doesn't teach much . . . you gotta know what you're looking for). I highly recommend getting the Jerry Kuhnhausen book "The Colt Single Action Revolvers A Shop Manual, vols. 1&2" (long name and it's one book). It will explain everything in great detail along with why's and why not's.
It's definitely easier to start with 150yrs of information rather than trying to reinvent the SA.

Mike

 

[springfield art]

I am looking at a hand cannon options, the Uberti Walker certainly qualifies (and looking into a Ruger Old Army as well)

What has me bothered about the Uberti Walker is the comments about frame fit and various quality control issues. I am not incapable on miner fixes but all the ones that seem to be needed on the Uberti puts it into a get it and send it off for a complete go through by one of the experts and I can deal with anything that comes up from there.

So I am looking for good supported views of anyone that has bought one of those in the last year or two and or previous and then more current buys on experience with them. Highest concern is wedge issues and the Spindle aspect that is being reported as affecting the front to the frame fit and tightness/loosening of the wedge and if not addressed wind up with loose fit/issues as well as cylinder to Forcing Cone gap.

Walker is too darn heavy! You would be fine going with the ROA; they are simply excellent.

 

[sethwyo]

Smokerr, you don't necessarily have to send your Walker off to someone else to have a correctly functioning revolver. There are numerous threads pertaining to correcting the arbor length which will solve your wedge issues and keep your Walker from self-destruction ( proper setup like the originals is always better). As you've pointed out, the arbor length IS what determines the barrel/cylinder gap ( endshake on a non-bushing / non- gas ring cyl).

As for the lever falling, filing a flat on top of the nub on the spring will engage the lever more positively and keep that from happening.



It's perfectly understandable that you'd want to "diy" ( that's how I started !!!) but I would "discourage" trying to "figure it out yourself". There is a definite sequence for timing that leaves little room on "either side" for "experimentation". (handling a bunch of "ill timed" revolvers doesn't teach much . . . you gotta know what you're looking for). I highly recommend getting the Jerry Kuhnhausen book "The Colt Single Action Revolvers A Shop Manual, vols. 1&2" (long name and it's one book). It will explain everything in great detail along with why's and why not's.
It's definitely easier to start with 150yrs of information rather than trying to reinvent the SA.

Mike

. . . no . . .

I Did not say figure it out myself . . .

I said . . . learn how to do it myself, meaning, learn how to do it, for myself, not by myself.

This might be a good thread for you folks who have learned by experience or have a finely tuned revolver, to post some pictures and give some tips on how to do a bit of work on a cap and ball.

 

[45D]

Walker is too darn heavy! You would be fine going with the ROA; they are simply excellent.

Yeah but they don't hold 60 grs of powder !!! The "shock and awe" is pretty kool!!

Mike

 

[sethwyo]

Cannot fit 60 grains of pyrodex to a walker.
I think you will like the Walker model.
get you a good holster and they carry fine.

Love takin walks and camping trips with nothing but an old cap and ball revolver, The Walker model is a dandy

 

[45D]

Cannot fit 60 grains of pyrodex to a walker.

That's all I shot in my ASM Walker in the 80's.

Mike

 

[Smokerr]

My take is if I buy a Colt its going to be a Walker. Yea its very heavy but I am shooting off a rest mostly now anyway. If I got that route I want the biggest one they made that you could fill to the gills (not all the time but once in a while). I will be looking at the shimming of the Spindle to get down how that is done, I am missing a mental picture of why it works or how it solves the problems.

Our range is shutdown but I have been working on some loads to check in the Pietta NMA. I have done work on that as a sacrificial gun, raised the front sight as no one had done that, it shoots way high even with the rear sight set down as far as it will go (I can still cut down the rear notch).

I reamed out the loading ram so it would load conical s, it was smashing them but that had been noted so expected it.

I am not adverse to doing that kind of work, but the bolt on the ASP NMA showed me that there was some serious subtle stuff on that not easy to figure out as you can't see what its doing. I did a fair amount of grinding on the Uberti bolt to get it to fit in the slot, but its action while not perfect is pretty good (the bolt that came with it had the bolt back up at half cock so was useless, I had to do a half half cock and hold the hammer to get the cylinder to free wheel).

 

[kh54]

I love my Uberti Walker but like all the revolvers I’ve bought for myself I have followed others’ online/video advice (e.g. Blackie Thomas/Shaman’s Forge, Mike Beliveau/Duelist’s Den) and taken the time to de-burr and polish all moving and mating parts. I’ve also shimmed Uberti’s infamous gap between the cylinder pin and frame per recommendations found in this forum. I solved the dropping loading lever with a rubber o-ring. (One day I’ll use a file on the catch as 45D recommended.)

I’m am not a gunsmith but a tinkerer and careful DIYer and I have yet to ruin anything. If you want the feel of that nearly 4.5 pound hunk of iron in your fist go for it! But I recommend following these steps to make your experience more enjoyable. Alternately, you can always get a conversion cylinder for It.

 

[cynthialee]

I miss my old Walker but I know better than get another one. It was a little heavy for me in my prime, now I am in my mid 50's it is over the top silly for me to even consider such a pistol.
I kept the lever from dropping with a strip of leather tied to the barrel.
My pistols have gotten smaller as the years have progressed. I like my .36 as my main shooting gun. Doesn't tax me like my .44 does.

Now if you are in the market to chose between a walker and an old army...get the old army. It is the superior pistol. Treat it right and it will serve you for years. I hemmed and hawed on getting one back when they were affordable and now they come at a premium price I kick myself for not getting one.

 

[Old-Duckman]

I don’t have a Walker but do have a Uberti 3rd model Dragoon. I have several Ruger Old Army handguns blued and stainless (got a bit caught up and can’t pass up a bargain, it appears) anyway to me that choice is apples to oranges.

The Walker being a replica and the ROA being basically a modern firearm. If my goal was just to have a BP handgun to shoot and not to be worried about any issues one might encounter with a replica, then the ROA would win hands down. If money is the issue the Walker would be my choice. If history and connection with the past matters (the distant past) then it is no question, the Walker wins.

If it is within your budget, get them both, then you will be the one replying to such questions, with first hand experience!

If I had to keep only one BP revolver (perish the thought) it would be, without a doubt, an ROA.

 

[Dude]

You could shoot the Walker straight out of the box, and a lot of guys do. But where you'll get into trouble is heavy loads. That will stress the gun if the arbor issue hasn't been addressed.

The barrel is attached to the frame at two points - the lower lug and the arbor. The wedge forces the barrel against the frame.

So what's the problem? The forces on the barrel are away from the frame, so why worry if there's a gap between the end of the arbor and the well it lives in?

Look at it this way: For every force, there is an equal and opposite reaction.

Without the arbor bottoming in the well, the barrel can move towards the frame. Not much, but a very fine oscillation can occur. Doesn't take much, but over time will have its affect, wearing the wedge and arbor.

Another issue with a short arbor is the end shake being determined by how far the wedge is driven in - not an optimum situation.

 

[Relic shooter]

Cannot fit 60 grains of pyrodex to a walker.
I think you will like the Walker model.
get you a good holster and they carry fine.

Love takin walks and camping trips with nothing but an old cap and ball revolver, The Walker model is a dandy

A vintage styled shoulder holster works great if your packing a Walker all day

 

[B P Arn]

. . . no . . .

I Did not say figure it out myself . . .

I said . . . learn how to do it myself, meaning, learn how to do it, for myself, not by myself.

This might be a good thread for you folks who have learned by experience or have a finely tuned revolver, to post some pictures and give some tips on how to do a bit of work on a cap and ball.

45D has provided great information in post #7, just two posts above yours.

 

[rrebuck]

Have any of you tried magnetizing the barrel and loading lever to prevent it from falling?