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Under Hammer ?

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Looking to build me an under hammer and was wondering what would be best, a regular #11 percussion cap or the bigger musket caps? Will also be using this gun for turkey, groundhog, squirrels and such... .40 or .36 what say ye? :v
 
I've never had an underhammer (or yet considered one) but I vote # 100 caps and .40. # 11 is way more easy to find (in my experience) and .40 would be a bit better if one elected to shoot something larger one day.
 
They are sweet rifles. I built one from parts that I bought from Deer Creek Products in Waldron, Indiana. The lock is a marvel of simplicity. The ignition is quick since it is direct into the main charge and not through a drum like a regular rifle. Because of this, you do not need any special nipples. Just your regular #11 nipple will do the job quite well. I prefer Treso nipples over other brands. You need to make sure that your cap fits snugly on the nipple so it doesn't fall off. I use #11 CCI caps and they fit perfectly on my Treso nipple. They fit neither too tight not too loose.

My rifle will, on occasion, spit fragments of cap onto my forearm when I fire. This doesn't happen every time, just occasionally. But, when it does, it stings a bit. Wearing long sleeves when shooting my under hammer eliminates this minor inconvenience. Not everyone has reported this problem so I have no idea why mine does it and others don't.

So, having said all of that, the answer to your original question is use a plain old #11 nipple. It is all you need. :hatsoff:
 
you do not need any special nipples

The rest of the advice is fine.
But, that statement has to be viewed with a bit of caution. The older H&A underhammers used a slightly different nipple than most ml rifles. The wrong nipple in one of those can, and has, shoot the nipple into ones arm. :shocked2:
I forget the correct size for them. But TOW is knowledgable on this issue. Contact them for advise and replacement nipples before you shoot.
 
I see you found the one problem with the underhammers. They do spit fire down and if your arm is in the way it bites a small bit. You learn to keep your support hand forward and you elbow out so nothing is under the barrel when you fire. Your long sleeve shirt or long glove is the other answer. They are great fun guns, very accurate and easy to clean if you use a cleaning tube and bucket of water. Yes the old H and A's nipple is threaded I think 32/28 so be sure you have the right nipple. Enjoy your gun just be safe.
Fox
 
With a .36-.40 cal. a turkey or groundhog doesn't stand a chance.
I have found shooting these underhammers, you do have to be careful for nipple spray & cap fragments. But an old denim shirtsleeve pulled over your arm, and you can shoot all day with confidence and deadly accuracy.
Not the prettiest gun, but none more accurate.
Fred
 
:v Simplest gun ever made. They do spit caps, a shroud around the nipple will help, but shrouds do get in the way. Long glove/gauntlet or long sleeve eliminates the problem. #11s work fine, musket caps are easier for me to handle in cold weather hunting, so a 1/4x28 thread allows either a #11 or musket cap to be used with the correct nipple. Never had a cap of either type fall off mine. :v
 
kodiak use the #11 nipple yoy dont need the musket caps and will probably get more fragments with them. i have an h&a in .45 from pecotoinca that uses a brass cup around the nipple also the nose cup on the hammer is very deep so i rarely get fragments. currently i am building another underhammer in .36 that will probably have appeture sights, also planning on building a .40 buggy rifle and a .45 bullet shooter to launch 500gr shells :grin: these are fun and accurate rifles that are easily and cheaply built so who cares if they are not 100% period correct
 
If the underhammer you're building has a stock Numrich Arms or Hopkins and Allen barrel, the nipple threads are 1/4x32 not 1/4x28.
 
You won't need a musket cap with the nipple directly against the main charge.
I don't think my underhammer has ever not fired or hang fired.
One thing though, get a long shank, under hammer nipple that uses the full barrel wall thickness for the thread.
Some folks use a standard nipple and I got away with it for several years but when I added the flash divert-er and lost a full thread I ordered the extended one from TOTW to make sure I didn't blow out a nipple into my forearm. Mike D.
 
One more tip on nipple length for an underhammer.Get them to fit flush with the inside of the bore. Too short and, as stated, may blow out, and they collect crude on cleaning. Too long and they may prevent fully seating the ball on a light load, and they'll snag your cleaning patches. I always get mine long and file (by trial and fit)till flush with the bore.
 
Wow , nice timely topic for me. I want to build one too, can't decide between a 28 bore or small bore rifle.... I like the H&A type ,Deer Creek still selling parts? Anyone experience with Blue Grouse?? Been mulling this over for years, just back arount to it when looking for a 28bore for skeet targets.
 
If you haven't bought parts yet, have a look at the Allen underhammer action. It is slick. I am currently making a rifle using his action. http://www.longrifles-pr.com/actions.shtml
I once owned a H&A rifle, and it was good too. I once had to pick a piece of a percussion cap out of my left forearm with a pair of tweezers, so the advice on that count is good. For that reason, I use a hotshot type nipple now. I hope there will be fewer cap pieces flying around, and not as high velocity.
 
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What do y'all think of this Allen action for a first rifle build?

Seems like mostly metal work (good), and if it turns out well, a way to get a good light rifle (.40 or .45) for my wife.
 
Kobuk Kid said:
If the underhammer you're building has a stock Numrich Arms or Hopkins and Allen barrel, the nipple threads are 1/4x32 not 1/4x28.

Even though I used to sell them and my whole family shot H&As that size fell out of my memory bank. :shocked2: However, I do recall they had a larger flange and were identifiable by appearance as being 'different'. That might be why I didn't sweat the thread size, I could tell a correct H&A mipple by sight.
 
Google a blog called "The Underhammer Society". Lots of information(and opinions).It may give you some ideas for your contemplated build.
 
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