Under lug pin size

[Peter LeRay]

Were pin sizes smaller in the early 18th century, or were they roughly the same size as (3/32) late 18th century pins?? I have both 3/32 and 1/16 pin stock, and am curious which one to use. I have not seen too much info on pins though.

 

[LRB]

3/32" would be too large. Go with 1/16" or 5/64". The 1/16" is plenty strong enough and allows a tad more room for error when drilling through the web. However, 5/64" is easier to keep from wandering, yet still pretty small. Either will work well.

 

[gunmaker43]

On bigger bores I go with 3/32" small ones 5/64", save worn or broken drill bits for pins, tgr pivots. 1/16 is O.K. but are quite short and will wander, use a jig in drill press and do from both sides....Good shooting...Tom

 

[ZUG]

I use 4d finish nails - 0.072" dia. :v

 

[Zonie]

IMO, 3/32 (.094) pins are too large for barrel underpins.

The height of a lot of commercial underlugs isn't much more than that so if that size is drilled slightly off of location there is a good chance of the hole breaking thru the wall of the underlug.

Likewise, I think 1/16 pins are a bit too small.

Although they are strong enough to do the job it's hard to find something to use as a punch to push them out because most punches are not much smaller than 1/16 themselves.
I remove the pins and barrel many times during a build.
I also remove the pins to clean the finished rifle after shooting it too so I think it is best to use something smaller than the pin hole to drive out the pins.

Most 1/16" drill bits are also rather short and the drill must go completely thru the stock when drilling these barrel pin holes.

I think that leaves 5/64 (.078) as a good size choice.

It's is easy to find drill bits this size.

The drill bits are longer so drilling completely thru the stock isn't an issue.

The 5/64 diameter allows the builder or owner to use a 1/16" pin as a drift or punch to knock out the barrel pins without damaging the hole.

The 5/64 diameter drills larger size makes it less likely to walk sideways when it hits the steel underlug and its larger size makes it less likely to break off in the hole.

Last but not least, finding 5/64" diameter music wire is easy at many hardware stores or hobby shops.

If music wire is used plan on using a Dremel abrasive cutoff wheel to cut it.
It is hardened and will ruin most ***** or pliers with wire cutting blades.

I do use the 1/16" wire for the ramrod thimbles and trigger guard lugs.

 

[Peter LeRay]

Thanks guys. I used 5/64 and theyre great. For $2 I now have enough wire for a lifetime

 

[Vaino]

I've found .062 dia. music wire to work well in my LRs...all the pins are this wire. Asre a punch for removing them....I took a length of .062 dia music wire and took off a sight amount on one end and pounded the other end into a hole in a length of 3/8" square brass stock. Made a nice little drift.

Some have trouble drilling w/ a 1/16 drill...if a properly sharpened bit is used at 1300-1500RPM spindle speed, the hole will be drilled w/o a problem. I drill straight through the wood and lug and the only precaution is less force when contacting the lug.

I'm fortunate in that I have an old pliers that has side cutters that will cut through music wire w/o damage to the cutting edges...bought a new side cutters and the first cut of music wire gouged the cutting edges.....Fred

 

[Brad Foust]

Interesting conversation.
I have a little angle on this subject?
I just finished reading an article on this and they suggested slotting the pin holes in the tenon?
Where can I get a file that small?
And is it really necessary?, And if so, how long a slot?
Thanks all

 

[Vaino]

Even w/ using .062 dia music wire pin, I have needle files that extend the hole by 1/32" on both sides. Some drill holes on both sides of the actual pin hole and then use a jeweler's saw to take out the webs and finish w/ a needle file. I use a small cutter in a Dremel to elongate the pinhole and then finish w/ the needle files. Either way does the job.

Some believe that slotting isn't necessary, but I've had actual evidence that it is......Fred

 

[Peter LeRay]

Yep a little slotting is good. They say it's for when the barrel heats up. I don't think this is the case. What I believe it benefits the wood expansion and contraction. I use a little diamond bit set from Harbor freight that I put in my Dremel

 

[Peter LeRay]

Also the 5/64 and 1/16 drill bits seem short. I purchased aircraft bits which have a 6" shank and cut them to size with a Dremel.

 

[Vaino]

I just buy the standard length 1/16" drill bits and they're always long enough...of course I'm drilling fore ends that have ben taken down in width.....Fred

 

[LRB]

Even w/ using .062 dia music wire pin, I have needle files that extend the hole by 1/32" on both sides. Some drill holes on both sides of the actual pin hole and then use a jeweler's saw to take out the webs and finish w/ a needle file. I use a small cutter in a Dremel to elongate the pinhole and then finish w/ the needle files. Either way does the job.

Some believe that slotting isn't necessary, but I've had actual evidence that it is......Fred

So have I Fred. My rifle was not slotted and shot great groups at 50yrds., but every few days the POI changed. I'm in FL, and humidity makes drastic changes day to day. I slotted the lugs and experienced no further changes in POI. It really is not an option. Especially with figured wood.