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Used Muzzleloader?

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David Paskowski

32 Cal.
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Jan 27, 2009
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I'm thinking about going to some pawn shops and check out some Percussion Rifles. What should I be looking for as far as wear and tear? what should I stay away from as far as damage?
 
as a general rule, anything that would disqualify a centerfire rifle (i.e. pitted bore, bulge in the barrel, fractured stock) wuld steer you away from a ml. in percussion, also look for signs of erosion around the nipple. if the trigger (s) don't work properly, you may want to look on.

having wsaid that, you ought not to automatically rule out a Thompson Center rifle for these problems inasmuch as they will repair/replace broken or malfunctioning parts with no cost to you except postage. their customer service is, literally, world class.

just one guy's opinion.

(by the way, look kindly at flinters- you can get a very good deal if you're willing to tinker with the piece for a bit to get it working prpoerly)

good luck, and make good smoke!

msw
 
Rusty bores are the main concern along w/ loose and wrong nipples. Next would be trigger pulls. Of course the model and manufacturer should have a reputation and can be researched here on this board....a preponderance of "bad" reports should preclude buying such a MLer. Appearance is self evident and depending on price and your ability to "fix" the flaws could lead to a good buy....Fred
 
Rusty in the nipple area, and take a bore light if you can. If not take a small light to look down the barrel. If it's beat up leave it and look else where. I agree T/C will repair it in most cases if you find one. :thumbsup:
 
To check the bores get a empty nickle .38 case, it will fit 45 to 54 cal. Just drop in bore and shine a Migg light down. For .32 to .40 Cut a stainless rod and shine the one end so it reflects the light. Dilly
 
buy a THILL NITE LIGHT,these are used for fishing bobbers.drop inh barrel.

i like green one, they come in red/yellow.

they will almost fit in a 22 cal..
cost, 3.59 ea.

do a google to see them.
 
Checking for a bulged barrel is not as easy with a muzzleloader as it is with a modern rifle.
The chance that the barrel is bulged is much higher with the muzzleloader because all it takes is to leave the ball/bullet partially rammed down the bore and then to fire the gun.

Modern rifles thin barrels will easily show a bulge but the heavy barrels on muzzleloaders can bulge to an unacceptable level and look quite all right on the outside.

Before one goes out shopping for a used muzzleloader they need to have a cleaning rod, a brass cleaning jag in the caliber(s) they are interested in and a few clean, very lightly oiled cleaning patches with them

Tell the owner you want to check the rifle by running a clean patch down the bore. If he objects then tell him how to insert his gun in the proper place.

When you run the correct sized cleaning jag and oiled patch down the bore pay particular attention to the amount of force that is needed to keep the jag/patch moving down the bore.
If at any point it becomes noticeably easier to push or it gets easier then returns to the previous force the barrel has been bulged.

Not only is this possibly dangerous to shoot but even if it is safe it will never give good groups.

After your patch is back out of the bore look for rust or black fouling.
Light rust isn't necessarily bad but heavy rust or black fouling indicates the bore wasn't cleaned and is probably junk.

Happy Hunting. :)
 
Of course you will check the lock and triggers for proper function and look it over from end to end. The one thing you absolutely MUST have is a drop in bore light. I use a Streamlight Stylus which is very bright and will drop down bores of .40 caliber or larger. It's a very useful little light in the shop and I never go to a gun show without it. There are other lights as mentioned here but you must carefully inspect the bore. You may be surprised at how many used muzzleloaders have pitted or bulged bores or both even though they may look like new on the outside.
 
as long as you are feeling the bore, mark your rod when in the bore and compare it to external barrel length to check for a loaded gun!

loose sights, stripped screws, broken springs ect.
 
all the foregoing is good advice. As a pawn shop gun buyer, my tip is to offer less than half of whatever the pawnshop guy asks...my last purchase was a Traditions Hawkin, and a CVA cub..the Hawkin was priced at $195, the cub at $95..I said, "150 for both" and walked out with them...guy seemed happy...I should have offered $125 for both...Hank
 
sproulman said:
very good info.
i wonder how many will let you do this to gun.
If the buyer acts like he knows what he's doing and explains why he's doing it I think most dealers or private sellers will be happy to allow a barrel check.
I wouldn't trust anyone who wouldn't allow it.

By the way, if the ramrod doesn't go all the way down the full length of the barrel, not only is the gun probably loaded but no one knows what it is loaded with.

A used rifle I bought turned out to be loaded with about 30 grains of SMOKELESS powder.
Fortunatly I found it and did not try to shoot it out.
Had I fired it, it very likely would have blown up.
 
WV DAVE said:
I'm thinking about going to some pawn shops and check out some Percussion Rifles. What should I be looking for as far as wear and tear? what should I stay away from as far as damage?

Bring the gun to full cocked position and then push on the back of the hammer with your thumb, if the hammer falls, the gun has either a worn or broken sear.

Check the wrist area of the stalk for cracks.
 
.50 renegade tc scope mount with rear sight built in. 4 power scope. unbreakable ram rod. sling swivels. sling. false muzzle(forget what its called).pawn shop owner had no problem with a close inspection. 70.00 bucks out the door. larry wv
 
larry wv said:
.50 renegade tc scope mount with rear sight built in. 4 power scope. unbreakable ram rod. sling swivels. sling. false muzzle(forget what its called). larry wv

The T/C "false muzzle" is called the QLA system.

Quick Load Accurizor (QLAâ„¢), is yet another T/C technology that is standard on all T/C muzzleloaders.
 

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