Just picked up a used TC Hawken Cap Lock Serial Number in the low 100K range. I haven't shot it yet. It had not been shot for quite some time. Dust in the barrel. Bore was not brite to say the least it has rust. Did not see any pitting. Overall gun looks good. Aged nicely. Wood is good. I probably paid to much but I wanted a hawken style rifle. I just finished cleaning with bore brush and bore brite and alcohol. Patches finally came out clean. Put wonder lube in the barrel and will try it out this weekend ... weather permitting. The nipple was lubed and came out easy. Side screw won't budge. The hammer looks misaligned with where it would fall on the cap. I didn't get a book of course and this is my first side lock. I have an inline. Is there a procedure for aligning the hammer? Any advice and tips is greatly appreciated. Do you guys think it will need a new barrel? :hmm: If that is the case maybe I can get my money back?
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Used TC Hawken
- Thread starter vsparto
- Start date
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I just looked at the 3 TC Hawkens I own.
On two out of three, the hammer is mis-aligned with the nipple.
When I say mis-aligned, I mean the hammer comes down over the nipple without interfering with it, but on one gun the nipple is "too far in" and the other it's "too far out".
The gun with the nipple "too far in" is a box stock TC. The one with the nipple out is a TC that was restocked by me. The one with everything just right is a Kit built by me.
The all shoot exceptionally well, and do not mis-fire when loaded with Pyrodex (the true test of a caplock rifle).
Before you try to adjust the hammer, take it out and see how it does. If it shoots well, without mis-firing, forget about it.
Don't forget to have the nipple bare, and the hammer on half cock when you load your gun.
If you do this, and it has mis-fires, then you need to do something about it.
I wouldn't think about bending the hammer unless it is too far forward, or too far to the rear of the nipple.
If the hammer is too far outward, sometimes something as simple as scraping the upper face of the lock mortice where the inside of the lock plate rests will cock the hammer on the lock inward making the hammer line up.
If the hammer is too far inward, scraping the lower surface of the lock mortice will cock the hammer on the lock outward which will centralize the nipple with the hammer.
It's suprising how little "adjustment" is sometimes needed.
As for the bore, assuming it's a .50 cal, I would suggest buying a box of .490 round balls, a bunch of targets and some good .015 thick patches.
By the time the 100 shots are fired, you will know if the barrel needs replacing or not. It may shoot just fine now that the rust has been removed.
On two out of three, the hammer is mis-aligned with the nipple.
When I say mis-aligned, I mean the hammer comes down over the nipple without interfering with it, but on one gun the nipple is "too far in" and the other it's "too far out".
The gun with the nipple "too far in" is a box stock TC. The one with the nipple out is a TC that was restocked by me. The one with everything just right is a Kit built by me.
The all shoot exceptionally well, and do not mis-fire when loaded with Pyrodex (the true test of a caplock rifle).
Before you try to adjust the hammer, take it out and see how it does. If it shoots well, without mis-firing, forget about it.
Don't forget to have the nipple bare, and the hammer on half cock when you load your gun.
If you do this, and it has mis-fires, then you need to do something about it.
I wouldn't think about bending the hammer unless it is too far forward, or too far to the rear of the nipple.
If the hammer is too far outward, sometimes something as simple as scraping the upper face of the lock mortice where the inside of the lock plate rests will cock the hammer on the lock inward making the hammer line up.
If the hammer is too far inward, scraping the lower surface of the lock mortice will cock the hammer on the lock outward which will centralize the nipple with the hammer.
It's suprising how little "adjustment" is sometimes needed.
As for the bore, assuming it's a .50 cal, I would suggest buying a box of .490 round balls, a bunch of targets and some good .015 thick patches.
By the time the 100 shots are fired, you will know if the barrel needs replacing or not. It may shoot just fine now that the rust has been removed.
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40 Cal.
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2004
- Messages
- 345
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Just had to mention this...
I saw a TC Hawkin at the flea market this last Sunday..
It had SO much rust in the bore ...the opening was about 36 cal....
WAUGH!!! the out side looked O.K
The seller was askin $200....i passed
*** WV SCROUNGER ***
I saw a TC Hawkin at the flea market this last Sunday..
It had SO much rust in the bore ...the opening was about 36 cal....
WAUGH!!! the out side looked O.K
The seller was askin $200....i passed
*** WV SCROUNGER ***
bearbeater
36 Cal.
- Joined
- Mar 6, 2005
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- 57
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- 0
Hey vsparto
Zonie gave good advise. The screw on the snail is froze because they lock tight it. I did it to mine. the stinken thing falls out thats why.
Bearbeater
Zonie gave good advise. The screw on the snail is froze because they lock tight it. I did it to mine. the stinken thing falls out thats why.
Bearbeater
- Joined
- Mar 26, 2005
- Messages
- 728
- Reaction score
- 779
The TC Hawken is a terrific rifle. I have both a cap and flinter. It is very accurate. If the weather clears this weekend, I plan to shoot mine at the range in the Muzzleblasts magazine postal match.
