Using car wax as a preservative

[Whughett]

Car waxes contain other additives including silicone.
While perhaps a big if, a future refinishing of a stock coated with car wax could present problems as silicone doesn’t play nice with some finishes containing urethanes .

 

[The Appalachian]

Car waxes contain other additives including silicone.
While perhaps a big if, a future refinishing of a stock coated with car wax could present problems as silicone doesn’t play nice with some finishes containing urethanes .

Acetone cures that evil quickly and thoroughly.......

 

[david w]

I remove my metal from the stock and warm it up with a with a heat gun, then apply beeswax and buff it off. I've never had a rust problem.

For stocks, I use Watco satin wax.
https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/watco/satin-finishing-wax/

Or
https://www.amazon.com/Craftsmens-Lemon-Bees-Furniture-Polish/dp/B002FCL7PS

 

[RC]

shoe polish... for some reason works way better than any car wax i've tried.. johnson's liquid floor wax worked the best but can't get it anymore the cream not so much imo

 

[Musketeer]

If you want a preservative wax stick with Renaissance Wax. It's very effective and proven safe on all sorts of surfaces: metal, wood, bone, stag, pearl, etc., etc. It was specifically designed to preserve museum artifacts and is commonly used by big museums around the world for a variety of things, including antique swords, armor and firearms.

 

[oldwood]

Any wax with silicone in it , might not be good for wood finishes. I have used Special Dark Minwax furniture wax for
years with no problems. The dark wax fills in scars and , imperfections from usage and doesn't turn white , and ooze out in warm temps.

 

[nhmoose]

Butchers Boston Polish on the whole gun.

Car waxes may contain an abrasive so make sure it doesn't

 

[Walkingeagle]

I just use rendered bear fat (or deer tallow) to wipe down my muzzleguns. Apply and wipe off excess. Seems I always have an ample supply see’n as I (or my family) hunt every year.
Walk

 

[RIDE-RED350R]

I just recently got a can of Renaissance Wax after hearing for years how well it works on firearms. I tried it on three of my lever rifles, a Uberti 1876, Henry brass 45-70 and my prized Turnbull 1886. So far I'm pleased with the results, although it was debatable as to whether or not I improved on Turnbull's finish with the Renaissance Wax.

I intend to give all of my firearms a coat now

Also see alot of positive things about the Johnson's floor wax too.

 

[Killerangel]

I use G96 on all metal that I do not want to rust. Have been for going on 60 years. No fuss, no mess, no buffing.....no rust ever.
Try it.

 

[1BadDart]

I've used Turtle Wax on modern guns. Never tried it on a muzzleloader. I've used New Finish on modern brass.
Can't see why it wouldn't work on a muzzleloader, but, I hear great things about both Renaissance Wax and a micro-crystaline wax that I think was from Kibler or one of the other big gun kit makers that makes some other stains and finishes.

If you're using Nu Finish I personally wouldn't want to use it on anything that was browned or blued. It contains an abrasive that removes the oxidized layer from older paints, not really needed with newer clear coats. For keeping brass nice and shiny it would probably be great, as it would remove any oxidation and leave a protective coating too.

I have used it on a one stock, I had put many coats of polyurethane and was having trouble with streaking. After several failed attempts at different application methods I used rubbing compound, followed by polishing compound, followed by Nu Finish and finally Johnsons paste wax. The finish on that rifle is like glass, it's a mid 60's rimfire target rifle.

This and a $1.75 will buy you a cup of coffee in some places.

 

[Whughett]

Not auto wax specifically as it contain silicone, but I do use bees wax softened with turpentine on power tool tables to prevent rust. No reason it would not work of gun barrel and receivers.
I mention silicone as it doesn’t set well with other finishes on wood that is to be refinished.

 

[Brokennock]

If you're using Nu Finish I personally wouldn't want to use it on anything that was browned or blued. It contains an abrasive that removes the oxidized layer from older paints, not really needed with newer clear coats. For keeping brass nice and shiny it would probably be great, as it would remove any oxidation and leave a protective coating too.

I have used it on a one stock, I had put many coats of polyurethane and was having trouble with streaking. After several failed attempts at different application methods I used rubbing compound, followed by polishing compound, followed by Nu Finish and finally Johnsons paste wax. The finish on that rifle is like glass, it's a mid 60's rimfire target rifle.

This and a $1.75 will buy you a cup of coffee in some places.

I don't use the nu-finish on guns directly, just on reloading brass. After tumbling, I tumble it again with another batch of media that includes 2 capsules of nu-finish, takes the place of needing case lube.
I have used Turtlewax on guns, but they too were modern. On my flintlock I use beeswax. Sometimes a beeswax/olive-oil/Murphy's Oil Soap blend.

 

[doubleset]

... silicone doesn’t play nice with some finishes containing urethanes .

Silicone doesn't play nicely with practically anything. To a substantial degree, that's a big part of the idea behind silicone. It is ALMOST insoluble in anything other than some really dangerous things that most people can't even get. A few years ago I did some experimentation with getting it to dissolve after looking at a lot of data sheets. (This can be an issue because silicone grease is often used on brass musical instruments to lubricate the tuning slides, and there is a concern that it can "migrate" into the valves -- which would not be so good.)

It will, over time, dissolve in kerosene (and some similar easily accessible solvents). But I had to let samples of it sit in kerosene for a couple of weeks before that happened. The best approach to silicone is never to use it on anything that you might later want to finish or glue to. It is, of course, a great release agent. But if you use it on a stock (e.g., for bedding), you really have to sand it completely off if you want to stain or finish any of the wood it got on. At least that's my experience.

 

[bstogsdill]

I used to carnouba auto wax with no polishers on it on my entire rifle for years to protect it from rain when hunting. It seemed to work well. I wiped it on and let it dry I did not buff it out. It left a thin wax film. It preserved the bluing well. I got it in about 1982 and just recently traded it off. It may have been Maguires brand but I don't recall except it had no polishers, it was pure wax.
On an old as shotgun I spray painted the entire metal with Rust-Oleum rusty metal primer and then kept it wiped down with oil. It's bluing had been long ago wore off. I don't see any rust on it to this day. I got the shotgun prior to 1980. I may tearit down and reblue it some day. It was made in 1918.
Cheers

 

[bstogsdill]

I just recalled that on my Birchwood Casey gun bluing material they said to prevent rust use either oil or their Birchwood Casey gunstock wax.
I may pick some up and give it a try.

 

[Dickert54cal]

I use Buther Bowling Alley Wax on my wood and outer barrel