variables

[newtewsmoke]

how many variables do you play with when figuring out loads?

 

[hanshi]

You don't have enough fingers and toes :rotf: . Actually you have bore & groove type & dia/patch thickness & weave/lube/pure vs not pure lead/powder granulation, brand, lot; not to mention external variables such as weather. Others will probably be mentioned as well.

 

[longcruise]

All of 'em!

 

[Rifleman1776]

I ain't got enuf toes to count that high.

 

[Grizzled Roberts]

I have a formula somewhere that gives me what I consider the perfect patch and ball combination. After I get the new flinter, I put my dial calipers in the bore. Then I figure out how thick a patch I am going to use. Then I dig out my formula and I can cypher what size ball I need. So the ball mould is my last step. But when the mould gets here I have the patch and ball thing figured out. Powder charge and sight adjustment are my only variables.

 

[Zonie]

One at a time.

If I try changing several things at one time and something helps I have no idea which variable it was.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

Intend to deal with or actually deal with and not know it? :grin:

Bore grooves, patching, lube, projectile composition, powder size/brand/lot, and weather were mentioned. That's the majority.

For flinters you have touch hole size (if it gets too big from wear it causes problems), and also the brand of touch hole liner. Number of shots between swabbing. Wadding or not between patched ball and powder. Hand cast or swaged bullets. Brand and lot for the caps with a caplock, or for some people, some traditional guns are converted to use modern primers.

LD

 

[necchi]

4.

The Ball Size.
The Patch Thickness.
The Amount of Lubrication on the Patch.
The Charge.

My short routine is;
Select a ball size of pure lead.
Select a patch thickness and Lube. Then work the charge to nominal with the above stasis.

Then with that charge, work the patch lube variable. Once the lube variable is best(for that patch), rework the charge in minor increments.

Now try another patch thickness,,, repeat above,,

It get's easier as you go, you learn what the gun likes and what it don't. The best charge for the gun doesn't change much, usually +/- 10grns or less from the best found the first time.

Then it might like a different ball size better and the whole routine needs to be done again,, :idunno:

 

[ohio ramrod]

When working out a load you should have only one varible at a time. Ball diameter, patch thickness, powder charge,FF or FFF, lubes or no lubes, over powder wad or not, etc. should be considered but only change one at a time. So you can see there are many combinations that may be tried. This gives us a reason for so much range time. :idunno: :idunno:

 

[paulvallandigham]

Always measure the bore diameter( land to land) and the groove diameter of your new gun. NEVER rely on what the maker says it is. They rarely take the time to actually shoot the barrels they ship out.

Measure to a thousandth of an inch. WRITE this measurement down, and save it. Its the One variable that you can eliminate quickly as its not going to change.

Cotton fabric can be expected to compress one third of its measured thickness when bought. You HAVE to take that into account in deciding how thick a patch fabric to use. The Fabric has to fill the Grooves in your barrel completely to give you a good gas seal.

If the grooves are so DEEP that you can't get a fabric thick enough to fill that groove ( That means, getting enough fabric into the corners of the grooves, too), then consider using an Over Powder wad, or filler( Cream of Wheat, Corn meal, Corn flour, etc.) between the powder and your patched Round Ball to act as a gas seal, and Firewall, to keep the fabric from burning in the barrel.

As you have already been advised, Change only ONE variable at a time. Otherwise, you are just making smoke, and learning nothing. :shocked2: :v :thumbsup:

 

[rancher]

One at a time. You'll never know what variable changed your results if you change more than one variable.

 

[50cal.cliff]

One at a time. You'll never know what variable changed your results if you change more than one variable.

Exactly!!!!! You have to change one thing and then put enough shots through the gun to see that you are getting consistent results irregardless if its the results you are looking for or not!

If its not the result you were looking for then you change one more thing and then start the shooting over again.

Its not rocket science but there are clues along the line as too what may be happening. Recovering your patches is one of the best way for you too get and idea of what is happening with your rifle.

When I first started I was using a sub. I finally got my rifle some what dialed in but was not happy the results. I could not seem to get real consistency to my shots!

I switched to real black and the results were much better but not what I was looking for. I then began to change powder loads until I was getting more what I was looking for. Even there I only moved at 5 gram increments. By doing it that way at one point I discovered I had jumped over what was the best powder load.

Take it slow and make one change at a time and then you have to shoot enough shots to determine that you are getting consistent results. And Oh, yes cleaning and wiping during a shoot will play a part in getting those consistent results.The result of all that hard work is finding that sweet spot so to speak, plus you get to do a pile of shooting!
:wink:

 

[paulvallandigham]

I hoe you are adjusting powder in Grains, NOT GRAMS, as you have written! It would be Very difficult to find an accurately load if you were actually adjusting powder charges in "5 GRAM" increments. :shocked2: :nono:

Check the Charts on this forum to learn the difference between GRAINS, and GRAMS. :thumbsup: