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Void in Butt Plate Casting

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If you look around at pics of originals, some have a screw in that spot. You could drive a screw in that and it wouldn't show.
 
I know what you mean, that would drive me crazy- even 200 years ago.

You could try to find some brass colored solder. I know they make it, but it might be hard to find. The only other point to be made in favor of living with it is that no matter how you try to fix it, maybe that area will get scuffed up and show wear from loading, and that may eventually disguise the blemish.

I just learned a couple hard lessons that brass should be filed and polished at the very beginning of the build before it is inlet, instead of at the end during the finishing process. This is yet another example.
 
Read somewhere that a piece of steel was sweated in and acted like an anti-wear heel.....Fred
 
Well, what do you think? I very, very carefully took a dremel tool and cleaned up the area and slightly undercut it. I applied silver bearing solder paste and put the heat to it. It needs some more filing, sanding and polishing but I am pretty happy with it. You have to look close to see the silver.
Thanks,
Nathan
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I'm afraid that although that looks filled in and pretty good now, when you remove the roughness and polish that area the contrasting color of the solder is going to stick out like a sore thumb.

If that's OK with you then your done. If not, you may want to think about another plan of attack like getting a replacement.

Even the idea of filling the void with braze has the risk of the color not matching after a little tarnish darkens the area.

Different brasses tarnish differently.

In the end, the final choice is up to you.
What we would want shouldn't necessarily be what you must do.
 
Zonie,
I agree with you. Even after I took the pics I cleaned it up more and it is more noticeable. Peening some brass may have been a better option. It's a fairly small area. Disappoints me this happened but that's part of the game.
This isn't going to be the last fowler I build so I will get another plate and see how it fits. If it doesn't fit right I'll have a head start on my next build.
Regardless, tonight was good practice for me and a good experience.
I appreciate all your comments!
 
Last Spring I was dealing with a butt plate that had a void in it. Chambers sent me a new one. Life got in the way and I didn't work on the gun until a week or so ago when I found some motivation to get going again.
I had already drilled holes and screwed the original plate to the stock. The other day I filled those holes by epoxying dowel material in them. Now I have the new butt plate ready and I'm ready to drill new holes. Should I adjust the position of the new holes to avoid the dowel filled holes or should I go ahead and redrill the new holes where the old ones were? My original thought is to shift the new holes just enough to avoid the old ones. But I thought I would ask.
 
Why did you epoxy dowel in the hole and not use brass?

Countersink the hole slightly on each face, insert a piece of brass rod into the hole, peen to hold in place and dress the surface. If done properly, the hole will be difficult to find.
 
Are you referring to the void in the original butt plate?
I am installing a new butt plate and I filled the hole in the wood and will be drilling new holes through the new butt plate into the stock. You're not saying to fill the holes in the wood with brass??
 
Staggerwing said:
Are you referring to the void in the original butt plate?
I am installing a new butt plate and I filled the hole in the wood and will be drilling new holes through the new butt plate into the stock. You're not saying to fill the holes in the wood with brass??
As the title of the post suggested the brass butt-plate, that is what I thought you were describing. Wood for wood and brass for brass. Also, wood glue would likely have been a better choice than epoxy.
 
I just added on to my original post. I originally was looking at a fix for the void in the brass. I chose to start over with a new butt plate.
My current post was referring to drilling back into the original holes in the wood or moving my holes 3/16" or so to avoid plugged holes.
 
It's really up to you.

I don't think you could hit the old holes perfectly on the stock even you wanted too. They'll be close even very close but not perfect since you are using a new plate.

So, since you have repaired the holes in the stock and have a new plate....proceed as if the old plate and it's drilled holes never happened.

New plate, new holes.

You may want to lube the screws with soap or paste wax.
 
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