Void in Butt Plate Casting

[WyomingWhitetail]

Going back to the original void in the casting. They do make brass or bronze wire for wire feed welders. They used it all the time where I used to work for welding up the ID of heads on very large hydraulic cylinders. Would basically accomplish the same things as filling it with braze would. Just thought I would throw it out there for anybody in a similar situation.

 

[Staggerwing]

Thanks! I have made pins and pinned them in inlays and nose cap but this was in a very visible spot and Chambers offered to replace it. I had hoped I could keep the bad one to practice making a repair on but they wanted it sent back, understandably.
With the wood plugs, the obvious answer is to drill the new holes in the same area. I just wasn't sure of myself for some reason.

 

[Billnpatti]

Damn fine job!!! :thumbsup:

 

[Col. Batguano]

You can get a cheap version of an ox-acetelene torch at Home Depot for $40. Not professional quality, but for very light use like this it'd do the job for you. The O2 canisters get spendy though, around $8 a piece, and you go through about 4 for every Mapp gas canister you use.

 

[jerrywh]

I don't know how big your voids are but I have put in lots of brass and iron inlays in castings. I put one in yesterday that was .030 in diameter.

 

[Micah Clark]

I recently bought this same kit from Chambers . . . its' my first JC kit . . . first one was with TVM . . . interesting differences between the two . . . .

I don't have casting holes in by butt plate, but I do in the side plate. This thread is helpful. Liked the pics of your rifle too.

 

[Staggerwing]

Mac,
This is also my first Chambers kit and only my second build. I would have preferred to get the stock without everything inlet but Jim told me the guy that cuts their stocks won't do that. It can actually present some issues if you're not careful.
I had to shave a little more wood off to get my new butt plate properly fit. It's ready to be screwed on and finished up. Then I will move to the trigger guard, put the final touches on the wood, brown the barrel and lock and it will be finished. Hopefully in time for turkey season!

 

[Scota4570]

Bernzomatic makes spelter solder rods. The are amost the right color. They are a brass color, just sightly different. They work at about 750*. You can use a map gas torch. I use it because there is no danger of melting the original casting and I don't need an oxy acetelene torch.

 

[Micah Clark]

I chose the Chambers Penn Fowler because it is one of his 2 or 3 rifles that come in left hand. . . I've met Jim a couple of times as well as his daughter Barbie, and he's a very very nice guy, and she's very helpful and nice too . . they are a great company.

However, I was under the impression that they build the best kit. My coach who helped me build my TVM kit has used Chambers a lot. (BTW, I think Chambers' locks are outstanding.) But, the Chambers kit actually gave me a lot more appreciation for the TVM and the things that they do in inletting the barrel, lock and trigger almost completely.

Chambers shapes their kit stocks better than TVM . . . My maple stock with Chambers is not very curly at all, not like I expected for the price of the kit and brochure description. . . I'll stop there. Again, I am not knocking Chambers, they are great, but I think each company has their own uniqueness and their own pros and cons.

I have not started my kit beyond cleaning up the brass, but expect to get going soon. Any pics you want to share would be helpful.

 

[jerrywh]

Bernzomatic makes spelter solder rods. The are amost the right color. They are a brass color, just sightly different. They work at about 750*. You can use a map gas torch. I use it because there is no danger of melting the original casting and I don't need an oxy acetelene torch.

I suspect that temperature is C. not F. That's about 1500°F. The low temp rods are for aluminum.

 

[Scota4570]

No it really was a very low temp. I bought them at Orchard Supply Hardware. They were much lower temp, hotter than the AL5 aluminum rods, but nowhere near real brazing rods. Much lower than the brass base metal. I can not find them on the net rightn now. IT was a plastic pack with a black and white label with five rods. I'll keep looking.

 

[Zonie]

You may have been thinking of these Bernzomatic Copper-Phosphorus brazing rods?
http://www.bernzomatic.com/product/pc3-copper-phosphorus-brazing-welding-rods/

Their working temperature is about 750° C (1390° F).

1390° F is no where near the melting point of brass or bronze although it is a dark cherry red.
On smaller parts this temperature could easily be reached in a local area with a MAPP torch.

 

[jerrywh]

You would be better off using silvaloy 45. It melts at about 1150°F. That is what I use.