Ray-Vigo
Yankee
Last edited by a moderator:
-
Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.
We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.
Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103
Wad or grease?
- Thread starter svenskenH
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
Klaus
40 Cal.
i tried both ways but found no great difference.
I like to use Combustible Paper Cartg. in my 36 er Navy but i have the problem that my Feltwads " leaking" into the Paper and ruin the Charge.
I use a similar Stuff like Crisco ,Beeswax and Oliveoil.Perhaps too much oliveoil.
I think about to reduce my load from 18 down to 15 grs fffg to have more space for a second dry wad in the Cartg.
Klaus
I like to use Combustible Paper Cartg. in my 36 er Navy but i have the problem that my Feltwads " leaking" into the Paper and ruin the Charge.
I use a similar Stuff like Crisco ,Beeswax and Oliveoil.Perhaps too much oliveoil.
I think about to reduce my load from 18 down to 15 grs fffg to have more space for a second dry wad in the Cartg.
Klaus
At the range one day and a guy down from me is shooting his 44 New Army Remington. New shooter using Crisco over ball to seal the chambers. He, the gun and the chamber were covered in grease. Even his glasses and some on his pants. I gave him a handful of Wonder Wads to try. He never went back to grease.
I'll throw my hat into the ring and agree with what you have said. I know this to be a FACT. I built a brass frame 1849 baby Colt from DGW around 1970. I shot it for about 6 months with no issues except that it was starting to get "loose". The cylinder's end play was increasing. I always used pure lead balls which shaved a ring of lead and covered the balls with Crisco, capped with # 10 caps which fit very well. One day I had multiple (2) chambers discharge on the first cylinder full then on the next cylinder full I had 3 chambers discharge at the same time. I went back to the house and disassembled the little revolver and found marks from the caps on the recoil shield. This is what was setting off the adjacent cylinders not from flash-over at the mouth of the cylinder. The gun was retired on that day. This is one reason I do not own a brass frame revolver and I have 12 revolvers at the moment. If the chamber shaves a ring of lead off of the ball that means the ball is pressed firmly against the I.D. of the chamber nothing will enter the chamber from the front. For those of you who hold strong to the "chamber mouth flash over theory" nothing will change your mind and that's OK with me :v .
I have a new 51 Colt that came with a free starter kit. The kit came with some wonder wads and some grease cookies. I think you are supposed push the grease cookies over the balls. I put a wad over the powder then a grease cookie and then a ball this worked out good. After i ran out of wads i shoot the rest of the day with just powder and balls the point of aim was the same. I was using pinched #11 CCI caps like i have been doing since the 1970s. The best over the ball lubes i have ever used are Blue and Gray Pistol Patch. CVA grease Pistol Patch and wax toilet rings.
Snakebite
45 Cal.
I use the grease, just the way I was first taught and it works for me.
I will tell you that I was shooing with a guy who was using the wad in his Walker and I was using grease in my 51 Navy. I agree my way was a lot messier, but I'd wipe down my gun between loadings. This guy's .44 Walker got so dirty with fouling and the fouling got pretty hard that he satarted having real problems with cocking and loading the gun. It wasn't caps falling down or anything like that, it was definitly the fouling. I just wonder if anyone else ever experienced something like that. He was shooting pretty stout loads in the gun.
I'm not averse to trying the wads, I might try them in my gun and see how it works.
I will tell you that I was shooing with a guy who was using the wad in his Walker and I was using grease in my 51 Navy. I agree my way was a lot messier, but I'd wipe down my gun between loadings. This guy's .44 Walker got so dirty with fouling and the fouling got pretty hard that he satarted having real problems with cocking and loading the gun. It wasn't caps falling down or anything like that, it was definitly the fouling. I just wonder if anyone else ever experienced something like that. He was shooting pretty stout loads in the gun.
I'm not averse to trying the wads, I might try them in my gun and see how it works.
I shoot a lot a few hundred balls a week sure i have had it happen to me. Using lubed wads and a small ring of grease a round the ball i might have i might have to lube the hammer with jojoba oil i carry it in a visine bottle in my bag. With just wads or shooting just balls and powder you will need to clean the cylinder face once in a while. I use white grease on the arbor so it is never a problem. I clean with just water so i never strip all the oil off my gun so to some extent the metal is seasoned i don't get any hard fouling and when i clean my guns running water washes away 95% of the fouling. Another factor is what powder you are using i use black powder some brands are dirtier than other.
One other plus to using wads is you can pull the cylinder charge the chambers seat the wads with a bic pen put the cylinder back on the gun to seat the balls. While the cylinder is off you can clean the cylinder face with a damp rag.
