William McConagher
32 Cal.
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2009
- Messages
- 23
- Reaction score
- 0
Right now, I've been shooting a friend's Walker... I originally wanted 1851s or 1858s but after firing his, I fell in love with it.
I've asked him the same question, and he said minus the parts that wear over time, such as the nipples, some springs, etc... the gun is built rock solid.
Think of it this way, the Walker was over-made for the power, hence its size. That was then, today, with our modern forgings, it's even stronger.
he did recommend one slight tuning though. He said to go with Treso nipples for the gun, the standard size that fits all cap&ball uberti's, and then to file down, slightly the hammer to match the nipple face. Sometimes they aren't matched which can aid in messing with the nipple or hammer. His don't even "clink" anymore if you dry fire them, barely any contact... just enough for the cap. :grin:
They're sweet guns. Also, DO NOT lighten the mainspring! Very bad for cap&ball revolvers because it'll possibly cause a backfire, or at the very least cause the gun to shed caps into the cylinder even worse than normal because of the lack of tension in the hammer.
Also, if you feel like firing some stout loads, create a neat buckskin cover for the barrel/lever... the one on my friends is Native American influenced with some wampum beads (did I spell that right?)and looks very nice... as an added bonus it keeps the lever up!
hope this helps!
I've had some experience now with these guns, nowhere near a ton. Luckily in a week, I'll be picking up my first one! :thumbsup:
I've asked him the same question, and he said minus the parts that wear over time, such as the nipples, some springs, etc... the gun is built rock solid.
Think of it this way, the Walker was over-made for the power, hence its size. That was then, today, with our modern forgings, it's even stronger.
he did recommend one slight tuning though. He said to go with Treso nipples for the gun, the standard size that fits all cap&ball uberti's, and then to file down, slightly the hammer to match the nipple face. Sometimes they aren't matched which can aid in messing with the nipple or hammer. His don't even "clink" anymore if you dry fire them, barely any contact... just enough for the cap. :grin:
They're sweet guns. Also, DO NOT lighten the mainspring! Very bad for cap&ball revolvers because it'll possibly cause a backfire, or at the very least cause the gun to shed caps into the cylinder even worse than normal because of the lack of tension in the hammer.
Also, if you feel like firing some stout loads, create a neat buckskin cover for the barrel/lever... the one on my friends is Native American influenced with some wampum beads (did I spell that right?)and looks very nice... as an added bonus it keeps the lever up!
hope this helps!
I've had some experience now with these guns, nowhere near a ton. Luckily in a week, I'll be picking up my first one! :thumbsup: