Walnut grain
- Thread starter wayne1967
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don't think so....but then, i haven't tried it....but walnut is all pretty dark.......as for filler/finish, i like thin layers of spar varnish....put on with OOOO steel wool....slowly rubbed in, and 3-4 times of that, and its nice satin~ fills them walnut 'moon craters"~ :shocked2:
marc n tomtom
marc n tomtom
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Hi Wayne,
I believe walnut, like cherry and oak are heavy with tannins, which will cause aqua fortis to turn the wood dark grey or black.
dave
I believe walnut, like cherry and oak are heavy with tannins, which will cause aqua fortis to turn the wood dark grey or black.
dave
Stophel
75 Cal.
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Yes, it turns walnut a very ugly black.
And I've never understood this "aqua fortis makes the curl pop" thing. The curl is either vivid, or it's not. Aqua Fortis doesn't change it. :idunno: The finish used, on the other hand can subdue or clarify the grain, depending on what is done. :wink:
I would guess the best way to keep the grain clear and bright (and historical to boot) would be to fill the grain with shellac, and then put an oil varnish on as a top coat. I have not done this on walnut yet, myself, actually. I've always preferred linseed oil for walnut (meaning real, genuine BOILED linseed oil, not the hardware store imposter).
And I've never understood this "aqua fortis makes the curl pop" thing. The curl is either vivid, or it's not. Aqua Fortis doesn't change it. :idunno: The finish used, on the other hand can subdue or clarify the grain, depending on what is done. :wink:
I would guess the best way to keep the grain clear and bright (and historical to boot) would be to fill the grain with shellac, and then put an oil varnish on as a top coat. I have not done this on walnut yet, myself, actually. I've always preferred linseed oil for walnut (meaning real, genuine BOILED linseed oil, not the hardware store imposter).
longcruise
70 Cal.
I've found that an initial application of finish with 220 Garnett paper in a circular motion helps close the grain. Shellac and min wax water base poly have both worked well. Then an oil finish over it.
IMO, aqua fortis or lye water will both not only NOT make walnuts grain "pop", but it will bury it instead.
Most good walnut doesn't need any agent that will darken the wood. It will be dark enough all by itself.
Some people do not understand that raw, dry walnut looks very light. Almost like a finished cherry.
Dry walnut is very deceiving.
If a builder wants to see what the walnut stock will really look like, all they have to do is to apply some water to the surface.
The wet wood will instantly change from its dry light color to a rich, dark, beautiful wood, often with darker stripes appearing in interesting patterns.
This is why I always tell people, "Don't even think about using a stain on walnut until you have wetted the stock to see what your really dealing with."
Occasionally, some sapwood will be present.
Sapwood is notably lighter even when it's wet.
If sapwood is showing then, yes, get some alcohol based Walnut stain. I like Birchwood Casey's Walnut. Dilute this stain about 50 % with alcohol. Then wet the area so the heartwood changes to its dark color and apply the stain to the sapwood until it matches. This may take several coats of diluted stain but with a alcohol based stain you can apply as many coats as needed to darken the wood.
As for maple "popping", as others have said, that's already built into the wood but the stain does greatly help the stripes show.
Those stripes are areas of wavy grain.
Where the wave is cut/sanded off it will absorb a lot of stain. The area between waves don't absorb as much stain/aqua fortis so they stay fairly light.
Most good walnut doesn't need any agent that will darken the wood. It will be dark enough all by itself.
Some people do not understand that raw, dry walnut looks very light. Almost like a finished cherry.
Dry walnut is very deceiving.
If a builder wants to see what the walnut stock will really look like, all they have to do is to apply some water to the surface.
The wet wood will instantly change from its dry light color to a rich, dark, beautiful wood, often with darker stripes appearing in interesting patterns.
This is why I always tell people, "Don't even think about using a stain on walnut until you have wetted the stock to see what your really dealing with."
Occasionally, some sapwood will be present.
Sapwood is notably lighter even when it's wet.
If sapwood is showing then, yes, get some alcohol based Walnut stain. I like Birchwood Casey's Walnut. Dilute this stain about 50 % with alcohol. Then wet the area so the heartwood changes to its dark color and apply the stain to the sapwood until it matches. This may take several coats of diluted stain but with a alcohol based stain you can apply as many coats as needed to darken the wood.
As for maple "popping", as others have said, that's already built into the wood but the stain does greatly help the stripes show.
Those stripes are areas of wavy grain.
Where the wave is cut/sanded off it will absorb a lot of stain. The area between waves don't absorb as much stain/aqua fortis so they stay fairly light.
longcruise
70 Cal.
I applied AQ to a test strip of walnut and, like you say, it turned nearly black immediately.
The simple answer is "No". All you need to know.
If you have some scrap of the same grain Walnut, Try the color of your choice. I prefer LMF stains & finishes. I also mix my own shellac, w/90% alcohol.
My last walnut had a great grain, so I mixed a "honey Maple w/ a few drops of cherry. I coated the stock (after 320 paper) & quickly wiped. Next was an Ebony toner, & I waited. After several minutes I wiped, Then hand sanded 320. Lightly.
At this point re-stain w/ the mix, and next day lightly sand until the grain is decent. .
TOW Original oil finish, then a garnet shellac, if so desired.
My procedure. Am very pleased w/ mine.
Good Luck!
P.S. There is also an orange shellac, & you can mix the two. I don't often use shellac, but it is period correct. Always use Mineral Spirits w/ LMF stain. Lighter is better w/ Walnut!
If you have some scrap of the same grain Walnut, Try the color of your choice. I prefer LMF stains & finishes. I also mix my own shellac, w/90% alcohol.
My last walnut had a great grain, so I mixed a "honey Maple w/ a few drops of cherry. I coated the stock (after 320 paper) & quickly wiped. Next was an Ebony toner, & I waited. After several minutes I wiped, Then hand sanded 320. Lightly.
At this point re-stain w/ the mix, and next day lightly sand until the grain is decent. .
TOW Original oil finish, then a garnet shellac, if so desired.
My procedure. Am very pleased w/ mine.
Good Luck!
P.S. There is also an orange shellac, & you can mix the two. I don't often use shellac, but it is period correct. Always use Mineral Spirits w/ LMF stain. Lighter is better w/ Walnut!
