Johnny Tremain
Silversmith in training
It cracks easy, dont put the holes to close together.Umm a bullet board would hold up fine I think?
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Walnut!
- Thread starter nwpahunter415
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Food grade mineral oil. There is cutting board oil that can be bought.
For treating a cutting board it is only important that you get the wood thoroughly saturated. Vegetable oils with high levels of polyunsaturated fats (flaxseed, walnut, grape seed) will eventually cure hard, those with lower amounts of saturated fats (olive, peanut) will probably cure softer. Mineral oil will remain soft as will animal fats. Original marine spar varnish was mostly flaxseed (linseed) oil with driers.
I have a collection of knife handles and kitchen tools that I could run through a dishwasher and they would remain intact (though the blades would rust).
Natural oils and fats contain an acid that will eventually corrode metals, my brass-pinned knife handles are all corroding a bit.
I have a collection of knife handles and kitchen tools that I could run through a dishwasher and they would remain intact (though the blades would rust).
Natural oils and fats contain an acid that will eventually corrode metals, my brass-pinned knife handles are all corroding a bit.
I use mineral oil on my walnut dining table, I just wipe it down with a damp towel and let it dry then slather the mineral oil on by hand, let it sit for as long as I like then wipe what's left off to a buff shine. Nontoxic and food grade, you can get it at any drug store. Some use it for a laxative as well.
Brokennock:
I buy "Tru Bamboo" cutting board oil at Walmart. It's made for all wood cutting boards, it's food grade (safe) and doesn't go rancid.
I think (just my $0.02) that's what you need. It's good for any and all woods that come in contact with food.
Good luck.
God bless:
Two Feathers
nwpahunter415
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This option is definitely worth looking at!
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"Live and learn, die and forget it all" ?
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I would think the drying period should be controled to prevent cracking? Exposed parts need to be sealed. It take a long time for the wood to acclimate and reach 6% moisture content, which I prefer for projects.
nwpahunter415
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Johnny Tremain
Silversmith in training
How to finish walnut is a whole different animal.
Everything I do is in walnut. I use only Matco Tung Oil, been using it for decades.
After 5-8 hand rubbed coats, its like plastic coating.
Everything I do is in walnut. I use only Matco Tung Oil, been using it for decades.
After 5-8 hand rubbed coats, its like plastic coating.
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I have used Tung Oil as well and have had satisfactory results. I also have used all the other oil finishes with good results. Boiled Linseed Oil is generally what I use because I was given a huge can of it and don't intend to throw it away. Once cured no one can tell which finish I used? No oil finish will protect the project from bumps but other than that it is a good way to go.
Juglans nigra (Black Walnut) is an allelopathic plant, which means it gives off chemical compounds that affect growth on nearby plants, stunting or killing them. It contains juglone which is toxic to other plants and humans as well, it is a clear liquid inside the leaves, roots etc. when cut or damaged it gives a brownish color (like in stains made from walnut hulls) As far as an air or kiln dried piece of lumber it wouldn't be too suspect to toxicity but there are many variables. Research the web or in books for more info.
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I was turning a piece of Walnut on my lathe once. I didn't have to work long on it to get it where I wanted it, maybe 20 minutes or so, I didn;t put my mask on. I could feel my breathing start to get a bit heavy. I blew my nose but it didn't help. It was about 8 hours later before I started getting any relief. Walnut dust is bad for you.
Johnny:
Tung Oil is super awesome for finishing wood, UNLESS you're going to eat off of it? A lot of folks have terrible allergic reactions to Tung Oil just from touching it? I know Formbys Tung Oil has that warning on the can. It says "allergic reactions can occur when coming in contact with this product. Wear gloves when working with all non food grade finishes. Work in properly ventilated work spaces." I've used it thousands of times in 50+ years with no issues, BUT there's always that first time?
Just a heads up.
God bless:
Two Feathers
When it comes to finishing walnut wood I always use a mixture of mineral oil and beeswax, it works quite well for most applications.
Brokennock
Cannon
I was kind of thinking similar when I read that.
If it turns into a plasticized finish, do I really want to be cutting on it, scraping what I cut or chopped onto a plate/bowl or into a pot, and eating it?
I'll stick with food oils like walnut oil, then maybe warm it and apply some beeswax,, if I ever tackle this idea.
I use a commercial product that they sell at Brubaker's (Mennonite store) up near Lena, WI. Don't know what it is called, but I use it on all of my wood-handled knives... mostly Chicago Cutlery which have walnut handles, but also a single Old Hickory knife which seems to have, appropriately, a hickory handle. I use the same stuff on my walnut and olive wood cutting boards. Pretty sure it is basically mineral oil with beeswax in it.
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