Walnut!

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For treating a cutting board it is only important that you get the wood thoroughly saturated. Vegetable oils with high levels of polyunsaturated fats (flaxseed, walnut, grape seed) will eventually cure hard, those with lower amounts of saturated fats (olive, peanut) will probably cure softer. Mineral oil will remain soft as will animal fats. Original marine spar varnish was mostly flaxseed (linseed) oil with driers.
I have a collection of knife handles and kitchen tools that I could run through a dishwasher and they would remain intact (though the blades would rust).
Natural oils and fats contain an acid that will eventually corrode metals, my brass-pinned knife handles are all corroding a bit.
 
I'm wondering what you would seal it with so it wouldn't crack?
I use mineral oil on my walnut dining table, I just wipe it down with a damp towel and let it dry then slather the mineral oil on by hand, let it sit for as long as I like then wipe what's left off to a buff shine. Nontoxic and food grade, you can get it at any drug store. Some use it for a laxative as well.
 
Walnut oil and maybe Johnsons Paste Wax? Unfortunately Butchers Wax is no more.
Someone more knowledgeable and experienced in woodworking, especially bowl or spoon making than myself could give a better answer.
Brokennock:
I buy "Tru Bamboo" cutting board oil at Walmart. It's made for all wood cutting boards, it's food grade (safe) and doesn't go rancid.
I think (just my $0.02) that's what you need. It's good for any and all woods that come in contact with food.
Good luck.
God bless:
Two Feathers
 
Brokennock:
I buy "Tru Bamboo" cutting board oil at Walmart. It's made for all wood cutting boards, it's food grade (safe) and doesn't go rancid.
I think (just my $0.02) that's what you need. It's good for any and all woods that come in contact with food.
Good luck.
God bless:
Two Feathers
This option is definitely worth looking at!
 
Stump wood can have some perty interesting grain in it. Lot of waste as it cracks and warps when it dries.View attachment 200852View attachment 200853
I would think the drying period should be controled to prevent cracking? Exposed parts need to be sealed. It take a long time for the wood to acclimate and reach 6% moisture content, which I prefer for projects.
 
I would think the drying period should be controled to prevent cracking? Exposed parts need to be sealed. It take a long time for the wood to acclimate and reach 6% moisture content, which I prefer for projects.
Lucky for me I can control moisture through a kiln. So not to hard!
 
How to finish walnut is a whole different animal.
Everything I do is in walnut. I use only Matco Tung Oil, been using it for decades.
After 5-8 hand rubbed coats, its like plastic coating.
I have used Tung Oil as well and have had satisfactory results. I also have used all the other oil finishes with good results. Boiled Linseed Oil is generally what I use because I was given a huge can of it and don't intend to throw it away. Once cured no one can tell which finish I used? No oil finish will protect the project from bumps but other than that it is a good way to go.
 
I walnut toxic? Whenever I work with it my hands get stained. So, cutting board??? On the stocks, walnut is a standard choice, why would it crack?
 
I walnut toxic? Whenever I work with it my hands get stained. So, cutting board??? On the stocks, walnut is a standard choice, why would it crack?
Juglans nigra (Black Walnut) is an allelopathic plant, which means it gives off chemical compounds that affect growth on nearby plants, stunting or killing them. It contains juglone which is toxic to other plants and humans as well, it is a clear liquid inside the leaves, roots etc. when cut or damaged it gives a brownish color (like in stains made from walnut hulls) As far as an air or kiln dried piece of lumber it wouldn't be too suspect to toxicity but there are many variables. Research the web or in books for more info.
 
Juglans nigra (Black Walnut) is an allelopathic plant, which means it gives off chemical compounds that affect growth on nearby plants, stunting or killing them. It contains juglone which is toxic to other plants and humans as well, it is a clear liquid inside the leaves, roots etc. when cut or damaged it gives a brownish color (like in stains made from walnut hulls) As far as an air or kiln dried piece of lumber it wouldn't be too suspect to toxicity but there are many variables. Research the web or in books for more info.
I was turning a piece of Walnut on my lathe once. I didn't have to work long on it to get it where I wanted it, maybe 20 minutes or so, I didn;t put my mask on. I could feel my breathing start to get a bit heavy. I blew my nose but it didn't help. It was about 8 hours later before I started getting any relief. Walnut dust is bad for you.
 
How to finish walnut is a whole different animal.
Everything I do is in walnut. I use only Matco Tung Oil, been using it for decades.
After 5-8 hand rubbed coats, its like plastic coating.
Johnny:
Tung Oil is super awesome for finishing wood, UNLESS you're going to eat off of it? A lot of folks have terrible allergic reactions to Tung Oil just from touching it? I know Formbys Tung Oil has that warning on the can. It says "allergic reactions can occur when coming in contact with this product. Wear gloves when working with all non food grade finishes. Work in properly ventilated work spaces." I've used it thousands of times in 50+ years with no issues, BUT there's always that first time?
Just a heads up.
God bless:
Two Feathers
 
Johnny:
Tung Oil is super awesome for finishing wood, UNLESS you're going to eat off of it? A lot of folks have terrible allergic reactions to Tung Oil just from touching it? I know Formbys Tung Oil has that warning on the can. It says "allergic reactions can occur when coming in contact with this product. Wear gloves when working with all non food grade finishes. Work in properly ventilated work spaces." I've used it thousands of times in 50+ years with no issues, BUT there's always that first time?
Just a heads up.
God bless:
Two Feathers
I was kind of thinking similar when I read that.
If it turns into a plasticized finish, do I really want to be cutting on it, scraping what I cut or chopped onto a plate/bowl or into a pot, and eating it?
I'll stick with food oils like walnut oil, then maybe warm it and apply some beeswax,, if I ever tackle this idea.
 
I use a commercial product that they sell at Brubaker's (Mennonite store) up near Lena, WI. Don't know what it is called, but I use it on all of my wood-handled knives... mostly Chicago Cutlery which have walnut handles, but also a single Old Hickory knife which seems to have, appropriately, a hickory handle. I use the same stuff on my walnut and olive wood cutting boards. Pretty sure it is basically mineral oil with beeswax in it.
 
Well, in any event there are woods such as coco bola where the dust is toxic (t least for some folks) so I would not use for noggins, spoons, etc.
 
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