Wanted 12g double barrel percussion shotgun

[TRex87]

Been wanting one of these for awhile to shoot everything from PRB to bird & buck shot with. Would probably shoot round ball more often than shot, & want a double barrel that does both & can group decent enough w PRB out to a good 50yd or better if possible

Prefer barrels 20-27”

Trying to keep it under $500 & less is better. Know that’s not easy to come by as many of the replica’s go for way too much

Was about to pull the trigger the trigger on a Pietta on here but someone snatched it up b4 I did

Kinda like the idea of an original & ironically Rhodes often go for less than replica’s, like Sharp’s rifle’s always seem too as well, but not sure I should trust round ball out of an old one?

Anyways, any recommendations

 

[andy52]

The only downside of what you are asking is very difficult to get good accuracy at 50 yards with an SxS using a round ball I've tried it and wouldn't have trusted it for deer past about 30 yards.

 

[Dusty_Traveler]

I love finding a good solid antique and bringing it back to service.

I call those, "having good bones", and @Relic shooter, "worthy".

When looking at an antique shotgun, I'm really picky about barrel condition.

Ribs- upper and lower- Look carefully for any separation from the barrels. Acidic flux was sometime used. Over the years corrosion can form on the steel beneath the solder joint. This will cause the joint itself to weaken and fail. Look for any evidence of a gap between the rib and barrel. Sometimes you can see the corrosion (rust) peeking out from a seam or a hole in the solder. Any repairs to fix this will completely change the patina and look of an antique. Sometimes you will see oxidation, too. This is a white chalky layer that forms on lead based solder. Oxidation is not as much of a concern as corrosion.

Barrel delamination- Look up how "twist steel" barrels are made. Most of the older shotguns are of this construction. These layers, or coils, can sometimes delaminate due to conditions. I use a nickel to bounce all along the ribs to check for rib separation, and all over the barrels to check for delamination. If you land on a problem area, your nickel will give a thud instead of a dink. I walk away from anything that thuds, no matter how much I like the gun.

Bore condition- That delamination is caused by rust and corrosion eating pits into the bore and then creeping into the layers of the twist. For me, If the bores are any more than very lightly pitted on these barrels, I choose to pass. Surface rust, though, can be polished off.

If you are going to be shooting round balls out of antique barrels, I would make sure that they are not tightly patched. I don't use modern plastic shot cups in an antique barrel, either. I stick with lubed felt wads and overshot cards.

I also keep in mind that I am shooting a gun that is 150+ years old.

Good luck with your search!

With many satisfied shooters, its hard to go wrong with a Pietta or Pedersoli double.

Take your time if you decide to purchase an antique, foremost for safety, but also for value and resale.

 

[TRex87]

I love finding a good solid antique and bringing it back to service.

I call those, "having good bones", and @Relic shooter, "worthy".

When looking at an antique shotgun, I'm really picky about barrel condition.

Ribs- upper and lower- Look carefully for any separation from the barrels. Acidic flux was sometime used. Over the years corrosion can form on the steel beneath the solder joint. This will cause the joint itself to weaken and fail. Look for any evidence of a gap between the rib and barrel. Sometimes you can see the corrosion (rust) peeking out from a seam or a hole in the solder. Any repairs to fix this will completely change the patina and look of an antique. Sometimes you will see oxidation, too. This is a white chalky layer that forms on lead based solder. Oxidation is not as much of a concern as corrosion.

Barrel delamination- Look up how "twist steel" barrels are made. Most of the older shotguns are of this construction. These layers, or coils, can sometimes delaminate due to conditions. I use a nickel to bounce all along the ribs to check for rib separation, and all over the barrels to check for delamination. If you land on a problem area, your nickel will give a thud instead of a dink. I walk away from anything that thuds, no matter how much I like the gun.

Bore condition- That delamination is caused by rust and corrosion eating pits into the bore and then creeping into the layers of the twist. For me, If the bores are any more than very lightly pitted on these barrels, I choose to pass. Surface rust, though, can be polished off.

If you are going to be shooting round balls out of antique barrels, I would make sure that they are not tightly patched. I don't use modern plastic shot cups in an antique barrel, either. I stick with lubed felt wads and overshot cards.

I also keep in mind that I am shooting a gun that is 150+ years old.

Good luck with your search!

With many satisfied shooters, its hard to go wrong with a Pietta or Pedersoli double.

Take your time if you decide to purchase an antique, foremost for safety, but also for value and resale.

Appreciate the knowledge & advice

My problem w originals is I don’t see many in my area, or many replica’s either for that matter, so kinda have to use online unless I can get super lucky & come across something locally in the ball park

Thanks again

 

[TRex87]

The only downside of what you are asking is very difficult to get good accuracy at 50 yards with an SxS using a round ball I've tried it and wouldn't have trusted it for deer past about 30 yards.

Thanks for sharing ur experience

What kind of groups could u get at 30yd & what were u using exactly ?

Do they shoot roundball comparable to smooth bore muskets btw or not so much?


From what I’ve heard some of the decent ones will group at less than 4” at 50 yds.

 

[andy52]

Thanks for sharing ur experience

What kind of groups could u get at 30yd & what were u using exactly ?

Do they shoot roundball comparable to smooth bore muskets btw or not so much?


From what I’ve heard some of the decent ones will group at less than 4” at 50 yds.

Most of my experience is with original guns and one Cabela Repro. The problem with SxSs is the indexing of barrels which is not an issue with a musket. The best I've gotten with them is about 3-4 inches at 30 yards, I've killed one deer with an SxS and it was closer than 30 more like under 20. They are really not worth the effort if you have other MLs to use but that is just my experience with them.

 

[andy52]

I also keep in mind that I am shooting a gun that is 150+ years old.

First and foremost when using an original SxS just out of respect for their age, I never use more than 60grs of 2F in any of mine.

 

[TRex87]

First and foremost when using an original SxS just out of respect for their age, I never use more than 60grs of 2F in any of mine.

Most of my experience is with original guns and one Cabela Repro. The problem with SxSs is the indexing of barrels which is not an issue with a musket. The best I've gotten with them is about 3-4 inches at 30 yards, I've killed one deer with an SxS and it was closer than 30 more like under 20. They are really not worth the effort if you have other MLs to use but that is just my experience with them.

I gotcha, I’ve heard of at least a couple people claiming three or 4 inch groups and 50 yards with them, if memory serves correct. Seems like some of them are index for 50 yards with round all or at least shoot down like, from what I’ve heard… I could be wrong though And I think that’s more of a thing with reproductions maybe

Heard of plenty of people with the same experience as you though, So maybe that’s the norm

For a smooth bore, I just love the side-by-side concept, the extra shot and versatility. I don’t have any real experience with them either lol

 

[TRex87]

First and foremost when using an original SxS just out of respect for their age, I never use more than 60grs of 2F in any of mine.

I gotcha, that makes sense.

Was kind of leaning towards an older one when I was first looking into it, but started figuring out a replica probably makes more sense, if I want some thing I can shoot well and not have to worry about using lite loads

Nothing wrong with using light loads, just nice to have the option to Have more versatility

 

[Jappo]

PM sent

 

[nit wit]

T:Rex 87:
You need to post a wanted ad in the classified section. This section is for smoothbore discussions and members should not post what they have for sale here.
Thanks
Nit Wit

 

[nkbj]

Did anyone ever produce a double barrel with one barrel having a very slow twist? That way the rifled barrel would spread shot close in and also shoot round ball further away. The smooth bore would shoot shot further away and round ball close in. A simple set of fixed sights would suffice if regulated to the rifled bore.

 

[TransYank]

I have brought back to service a few original SxS. I currently have 7) 12ga's, 2) 14 ga's and a 9 ga. I recommend shooting 1 F powder in them creates less pressure. I wouldn't shoot PRB. Every one of the original guns shoot both barrels to target. Very well regulated. I have owned 1 of the early 1980's vintage Pedersoli 12 SxS and left barrel would shoot 18" low and to left of POA. Sold it. A good friend of mine has a 10ga Pedersoli and barrels shoot 2 feet apart at 25 yards. I own 2 CVA SxS 12 ga's one was a kit gun other factory build they shoot very well but stock comb fits poorly compared to original English guns. I did have a set of the CVA barrels jug choked and is my go-to turkey gun after I fitted them into an Original piece of wood. I do use 3F BP in it to achieve best pattern with #5 lead.

 

[toot]

I have a SPANISH dbl, CONN VALLEY ARMS, mfg for / sold, 40 yrs ago sold by the dealer in DEEP RIVER. CONN. and with a square load of T-7. 3 and 1 half draghms and hornets nest for wadding it will print at 3 inches apart at 40 yards. with a lead cast 720 dia rb. hope this helps?

 

[TransYank]

Did anyone ever produce a double barrel with one barrel having a very slow twist? That way the rifled barrel would spread shot close in and also shoot round ball further away. The smooth bore would shoot shot further away and round ball close in. A simple set of fixed sights would suffice if regulated to the rifled bore.

CVA made a SxS 12ga. and 58 caliber rifle if memory service.

 

[Dusty_Traveler]

Did anyone ever produce a double barrel with one barrel having a very slow twist? That way the rifled barrel would spread shot close in and also shoot round ball further away. The smooth bore would shoot shot further away and round ball close in. A simple set of fixed sights would suffice if regulated to the rifled bore.

I think it was called Paradox rifling.

Not sure who all used it though.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

CVA made a SxS 12ga. and 58 caliber rifle if memory service.

I bought a vintage CVA kit from our Classified section several months ago, maybe a full year ago, haven't been able to get to it. SxS caplock 12 gauge, and a second set of barrels, rifled. Pretty sure they are .50's. Didn't mic them yet. Going to be a gift for my brother and his boys. (He's Lefty, his adult sons are Rightys). The gun will work for any of them.

 

[Gordoncourtney]

You are so lucky with hunting in USA. My hunting farms have dried up , sold off , since 2012 , but we have plenty of old guns from across Europe see Holts auction uk just collect now . Not a lot to hunt in uk anyway, more deer on road kill than hunting . Too many rules and regulations. Uk is not a gunny country ,

I am lucky at 81 to have a 100 yard garden so I get squirrels, foxes and pigeons, but I can only use 177 and 22 pcp bsa Scorpio pump up airguns.


I win some tatty ones at auction for around £150 to do up, not quite relics shotguns and occasional cape rifle Rifles I go for better quality I make new stocks out of English walnut at around £55 a slab.

I have been collecting for years, just like guns. About a third were cheap tatty things with broken stocks etc , but I enjoy making new stocks, Wife always moaning, why don’t you sell them, we could have a nice holiday , turn the heating up , it’s freezing west of London today inside or out , drink tea to keep warm , ha ha. Enjoy

Ps I just measured the twist on a. 1840 cape rifle and the left barrel had a 1/48” twist right barrel smooth bore

I think it was called Paradox rifling.

Not sure who all used it though.