I was somewhat remiss in my earlier posting in that I addressed Dutch's System as it applies to shooting percussion rifles. There are considerations that can be applied to flint lock rifles and also those with chambered breeches.
@Mike in FL is correct that even loose patch and jag combinations will push some fouling ahead of the wiping jag. Here I am going to apply a few definitions for my take on the system. The swabbing of the barrel is done with a very wet patch and the time to swab the barrel is to clean the rifle after the shooting session is completed. All that moisture from swabbing won't be removed by a dry patch or two. Wiping is done with a damp patch with most of the moisture squeezed out. Even the combination of patch and jag that will slide down a clean barrel with just the weight of a metal working rod will push some fouling ahead of the jag and patch. The wiping jag will not remove all of the fouling from the grooves to the point the barrel is clean. The goal of the wiping patch and jag is to establish a consistent level of fouling in the bore from shot to shot. Wiping when the ball and patch become hard to load means that fouling is building up bit by bit to the point that bore conditions are not consistent. The impacts of successive shots are often higher from shot to shot until the bore is wiped and the impact point is lowered.
Ditch's System will apply to all ignition systems with respect to establishing ball size, patch material and patch lubricant. Dutch's System in its final form used a dry lubricant based on a water soluble oil in water dried in the patch. Using a dry patch on the ball will mean that the bore must be wiped between shots or the stuck ball as
@LME observes is a certainty. LME's method works for him. Where we have to start making alterations to Dutch's System is an understanding of how to wipe the bore.
The classic flat or notched breech face: There is a flash channel either from the pan of a flint lock or from the nipple seat of the drum and nipple percussion lock directly into the powder chamber which is that column of powder between the breech face and the base of the patched ball (for some the base of the conical bullet). We have to prevent fouling from blocking that passage when we wipe between shots. We do that by two methods.
1. We have or working rod marked to stop the wipe about the powder column height from the breech face. Any fouling left as the wiping patch is pushed down the bore will remain above the flash channel or touch hole and be shot out with the next shot. [SECRET NOTE This is essentially what is done by the "never wipe" loaders using the wet patch on the ball and Minie' ball shooters loading their lubed bullets.] Using the wet patched ball as the wiping patch will remove most of the fouling from the bore, it is almost as effective as the wipe then load a patched ball for consistency. Using the wet patched ball as the wiping patch does work fine for woods walk reactive targets and silhouette shooting
2a. For flint locks we can pick the touch hole after loading. A soft wire pick, one of the dental floss tools, or a small brush for cleaning welding tips or paint sprayers will work. The quill of a bird's feather sized for touch hole will work if you just have to be authentic.
2b. For percussion locks, the blast from the ignition of the percussion cap blows the fouling in the flash channel out with the igniting powder charge.
The commonly encountered chambered breech: For a flint lock, there will normally be a direct touch hole into the chambered breech. For some flint chambers and percussion locks there will be an angled path from the touch hole then forward to the powder chamber. These are the most easily plugged with fouling as one wipes between shots as the wiping patch can't get into the chamber to clean out fouling. We have to rely on the ignition of the powder charge to keep that area somewhat clear. Since the chamber does not interface with the patched ball or bullet, we don't have to wipe that out during the shooting session. We just have to avoid filling the chamber and flash channel with fouling. Wipe the bore to the point where the ball sits on the powder.
1. Mark the loading/wiping rod at the length to about the top of the patched ball or bullet. Only wipe to that point
2. For a flint lock, the flexible dental flossing tool or the tip brush will keep the touch hole clean. The percussion cap will blow out the small amount of fouling.
Now we have to pay attention to the crusty ring that builds up at the base of the ball between the ball and the powder. If you are wiping past that crud ring, you are doing well. Sometimes you just have to wipe past the crusty ring to remove it and then a dry patch to pick up the pieces. It doesn't hurt to point the muzzle at the ground and bump the stock as LME suggests.
