• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Waterfowl Hunting Loads

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I finally had a chance to get to the range and do some patterning. I think it may have caused more questions than answers. The load that seemed to be the best was a charge of 85gr pyrodex, over powder card, fiber wad, 1 1/4oz by volume ITX #4, over shot card. However. Is was still a much more open pattern than I was hoping for. I've been reading some of the books by Wm. Hovey Smith and he mentions almost always taking the time to add a plastic shot cup (and cream of wheat and other fillers) to tighten up the pattern. I may give this a try or try another choke since I do have a screw in choke. But I think it's going to be suitable for the duck opener this weekend. I'll let you all know how it works out. Thank you again for all of your guidance.
 
M.Dalton said:
...a plastic shot cup (and cream of wheat and other fillers) to tighten up the pattern....

Back in the 1970's I used a lot of plastic wads, learning an important lesson in the process. If you just use them plain, you'll end up (or at least I did) with lots of plastic fouling in the bore, and it's a chore to get it out. Easy fix is to always put a lubed felt or fiber wad between the plastic and the powder. Done deal. It stops the fouling, and as a bonus makes loading subsequent shots lots easier.

Wish I could find the reference now, but back then an article pointed me at the WAA12R wads from Winchester, which have a little stiffer petals. The trick is that with those, I got MOD patterns. Cut the petals back to half length, and I got IC patterns. Neat stuff.

Only reason I'm not using them now, I wanted to see what could be done without them. I'm getting reliable duck killing patterns to at least 30 yards now, about as far as I want to shoot anyway, with most of my shooting coming at 15-25 yards. I have no qualms about the plastics, but I can get away without them, so don't use them any more.
 
" I have no qualms about the plastics, but I can get away without them, so don't use them any more."


I can't get away from them and have more than a 25 yard gun plus I refuse to pay what they want for ITX, hevi-shot, etc.

I never experienced the plastic buildup that you (Brown Bear) mentioned but my normal routine did include a lubed wad over the OP wad. I never did it with the idea of eliminating plastic buildup but I'm glad it works.
 
Patocazador said:
I can't get away from them and have more than a 25 yard gun plus I refuse to pay what they want for ITX, hevi-shot, etc.

Am I fair in reading between the lines that you're using steel shot for longer shooting? I've never been able to make that work out for me. But being cheap at heart, I'd sure like to hear how you rounded that bend.

Thanks for any details! :thumbsup:
 
I live next to a Corp of Engineers lake and I think any shotgun including muzzleloaders now require the use of non lead shot. Fortunately there is not the same restriction for rifles and handguns.
 
I use #3 steel in my CVA SxS with Multi-metal UNSPLIT capsules. I load a 3" capsule to the brim and it will reach out to 35+ yards and kill ducks.
However, it is no good for close work as it functions more like a slug at less than 15 yards.
 
Back
Top