Waxing the stock

[hanshi]

Johnson's Paste Wax is what I use. I even periodically remove the barrels and glop - well, not actually "glop" - it on the underside of the barrel.

 

[Rifleman1776]

I usually use Kramer's. It is for furniture and is mostly beeswax dissolved in turpentine. I really don't like it very much but it is expensive and I have two bottles to use up. El Cheapo here. :redface:

 

[Vaino]

I've never waxed any of my Mlers and wonder why the stock finish shouldn't suffice. Possibly waxing the metal parts would be of some benefit, but the stock if it has a good finish shouldn't require waxing......Fred

 

[FishDFly]

Kinda like waxing your shoes, original stain should be enought right??

 

[don hepler]

I've used both Johnson's and Renaissance, the main difference is that the Renaissance wax makes the wood have a higher sheen.

I like the Renaissance, however is it pricey. But good thing, it only takes a small amount.

 

[Flintlock]

I use a lot of Johnson's paste wax on my muzzleloaders, deer rifles and especially my SxS birdguns. I rub that or in the case of my flint guns my combo of deer tallow-beeswax and neatsfoot oil to seal any place where moisture could get between wood and metal. Especially around the buttplate and toe plate wear the butt is often set on damp or snow covered ground.

 

[Rifleman1776]

I've never waxed any of my Mlers and wonder why the stock finish shouldn't suffice.

Lotsa reasons. Not all finishes are created the same. Look at old guns in museums, wear and weather beating are prevalent. Same with a much used modern made rifle. Waxing can protect from handling and weather. I think it is a wise precaution. :2

 

[Gene L]

I did a lot of research on wood protection from weather. Basic, it don't work. Water molecules are finer than finish molecules. Looks great, but if you're out in the wet, you're screwed. Finish might delay hydration, but it doesn't prevent it.

Good news is if you keep your rifle in your house, it doesn't have enough exposure to hydrate.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Wax works.

 

[Mickc01]

Ditto for good ole Johnson's paste wax.

 

[faste350]

same here.

 

[Cowboy]

I personally prefer Renaissance Wax. Yes it’s rather pricey and for the most part you’ll also have to special order the stuff. Just a small amount will go a long way with each application. The stuff is just amazing!

The way I look at it is that these muzzleloader’s don’t come cheap! They’re a pretty good investment and especially if you’re fortunate enough to own several. A quality wax is a small expenditure to put towards protecting these firearms for the present and also for future generations that’ll be the new care takers of what I own. For the Wax I use, it’s definitely Renaissance Wax.

Respectfully, Cowboy

 

[wcandres]

Johnson's Paste Wax.

 

[Tom Compton]

Briwax in dark brown. Good stuff.
TC

 

[dodger]

I use a salad bowl beeswax preparation.
If the wood is at all porous it will soak in .
I like the satin finish [ disguises nicks and scratches very well ] , glossy stocked guns are not my cup of tea .

 

[cannonball1]

An old time gunsmith gave me a formula which works well: 1/3 each of pure beeswax, turpentine, and boiled linseed oil. Pretty close to Tom's 1/3 mix I guess.