web prosthesis

[Hierarkie]

I didn't have the tool at the time, so a friend of a friend who did finished drilling the last 4-5" of the ramrod hole on my first recarve for me. A great guy, but when I was inletting the tang I found the web thickness at the rear to be all air. I'm thinking of taking the remainder of the web out and carefully taking a chisel with a rounded edge of similar arc as the hole size needed and carefully finishing the channel. Then take a piece of hard maple to make an artificial one and fit it and glue in. Does that sound like a plan, or can someone with similar experience help me with an alternative.

BTW, I have the good reference books and DVD's for regular construction, but is there a publication dedicated to only the mistakes commonly encountered and their remedy?

Thanks, Ed

 

[Claycow]

Ed. I cant helpyou. But got pics by any chance so that i can see your mistakes?

 

[Stophel]

I've had to do that several times for a cantankerous ramrod hole that would refuse to drill straight. Cut down from the barrel channel, cut a groove to the precise depth you want the rod hole to be, cut a strip of wood to fit back in, you can even cut a groove on the bottom to sit on top of the ramrod. Fit the strip well for a good tight glue joint. Put a well-waxed rod in place, and then with a good glue like Titebond II (I do NOT recommend epoxy... EVER) squeeze it down and clamp it into place. Let it sit for a while to start to set up, and then take off the clamps to make sure you can pull the rod back out before the glue sets up hard!!! When dry, cut off the excess inside the barrel channel and "re-inlet" the barrel down where it should be.

This one drilled ok for a short distance, then swerved badly, so I cut down from the barrel channel where it started to go bad, and went back several inches. I finished the rest of the way with the drill. :wink:

 

[Len Graves]

Stophel. That is exactly the way I have repaired that malady several times. While you have that piece of wood out you can scrape out the bottom of the r-r groove to get your drill on track. I have even put pressure on top of a drill with a metal or wood block in that slot to steer the drill back where it belongs. Good luck.

 

[Hierarkie]

Thanks guys, kinda what I figured was the SOP for this fix. I had noticed the final drilling of the channel was too small and probably no downward pressure during the drill.

 

[frogwalking]

TVM makes there precarved stocks this way to begin with to avoid this problem.

 

[Spikebuck]

TVM makes there precarved stocks this way to begin with to avoid this problem.

I think they do it that way because they want to crank out their guns quickly and it's much faster to use a router to cut out the entire bottom of the barrel channel down the middle from just a few inches in front of the entry thimble to nearly the breech. Just the "high-speed" way to do it. I guess it works, but I personally like the entire bottom of the barrel channel intact.

 

[Zonie]

TVM makes there precarved stocks this way to begin with to avoid this problem.

... Just the "high-speed" way to do it. I guess it works, but I personally like the entire bottom of the barrel channel intact.

That is why I modified the one pre-carved stock blank I bought from them.

The long gaping routed out groove where the barrel flat would rest looked like it would weaken the stock in an already weak area.

To strengthen it I cut a piece of maple exactly the same width as the routed groove.

This I glued in place with some good wood glue applied only to the edges of the new piece and used a ramrod inserted into the ramrod hole to keep the new wood from getting too deep in the slot.

I then needed to remove some of the top of the filler so it would be in the right place for the bottom barrel flat.