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wedge capture?

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But I like sinning!! gluttony...coveting..and obscene amounts of black powder...are my three favorites. and believe it or not ...i did not hit it that hard ..i do belive i hit it too hard...but i did not smite it!...i prefer to think that i gave it a love tap with a sledge hammer :blah: but as you said ... TAP....
Thor like Application of Persuasion? lol, lesson learned....bryon
 
Was it braized/soldered or staked?
I always try to fix the "cheap" part- like the wedge. On the pins, you can do it several ways but the pin under the wedge plate works and if you don't like it- just take out the pin and use a non-slotted wedge. The shims in the slot- sounds like a good way.
 
To be fair you should not be disappointed with Lyman. Beating it into submission is a lot different than lightly taping it.
 
i wont disagree that i hit it to hard that part is obvious ...im just disapointed that the quality of the workmanship was lacking ...on the tenon that bent only the inner portion had been attached to the barrel it was basicly a very small spot weld in the innner edge of the tennon . just not very good quality control
 
agreed and honestly is nothing that cant be easily remedied.....either way it's still a good shooter and i wouldn't have it any other way
 
If your rifle has escutcheon's you can put a pin (I use a 1/16th nail) in the wedge. Be sure and put the pin far enough forward so it will clear the tennon, and you can lift out your barrel.Then file a slot in the top of the stock so the wedge will move back. Replace the escutcheon. The pin in the wedge is stopped by the escutcheon.
 
Necchi, thank you for referencing Paul Vallandigham. Paul was a friend of mine and I sincerely miss him and all of his accumulated wisdom on so many subjects. Seeing him referenced is sort of like keeping him alive in our hearts. RIP Paul.
 
The key word is not "pound" on your wedge but "tap" on it. However I have a better way using a C clamp. The last time I had to tighten a wedge, I just got out one of my large C clamps and a socket from one of my socket sets and placed the socket on the tennon and used the C clamp to slowly tighten down on the socket to gently mash down the tennon just enough to tighten the fit of the wedge . It is a much gentler way of adjusting the fit of your wedge in the tennon.
 
Bryon said:
I recall a conversation somewhere in the past...about capturing wedge pins so they dont fall out? My lyam GPR keeps dropping the wedges when I shoot ....I have already lightly shaped the tenons ...and one seperated from the barrel...What /how do i do this ...capturing thing?

First they should not fall out when the gun is fired.
It may be necessary to slightly bend the keys or CAREFULLY, pean the underlug. If these are set into holes in the barrel and staked in trying to bend the underlug to tighten the fit may dimple the bore.
Slotted keys can be retained by a pin under the escutcheon or a pin driven into the barrel channel or a screw in the barrel channel that passes through the slot.

Dan
 
thats a great idea! i went out and bought a c clamp today ...but i still ahve to fix the rear underlug...am taking to shop tomorrow...to reattach
 
I ended up bending the tenon and the wedges on both my Lyman GPR and my Uberti Santa Fe. I bent them both very slightly and I bent the wedges just left of centerline so it has to "tighten" as it's pulled out. Seems to have worked great.
 
As the saying goes: There's more than one way to skin a cat! And using leather to impart pressure between wedge pin and tennon definitely applies here! I'm assuming you have not had any problem with leather holding moisture and rust over those 45 years, so hats off! :hatsoff:
 
Absolutely! Sorry Bryon you had that experience with your GPR. When I bent mine, I place a slightly thinner drill bit in it before I bent it, which kept it from being over-bent. Though I didn't do it with my wedges, I have used a center-punch to tighten other parts, such as sight, by creating a dimple and crater.
You may still want to give lyman a call.
 
I followed this thread today to capture my wedge. I used my dremel tool to cut a groove in the wedge and then took a nail cut it to size , it had a fairly wide head so I flattened one side with the dremel, used a flat head screwdriver and tapped on it to create a vertical groove for the nail to sit in.The flattened side of the nail head goes flush with the side plate and the remaining just pressed into the stock and helps keep the "pin" from moving. Now my wedge can slide out only so far and the barrel comes off no problems and I'll never have to worry about a lost wedge. It was an easy job and actually fun to do. It was not difficult and I think the dremel was easier than trying to use my cheapo drill press. I have enjoyed reading through as many new and old posts as possible since getting my .50 cal cva. I'm going to keep going because with each post I read I learn something new!!
 
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