Wedge issue with 1861 pietta colt revolver

[ormond tony]

I just got a pietta army colt 1861 and the wedge is very difficult. Taking the screw out doesn't help. There's give in the wedge spring but the wedge will only go just past even with the barrel. After wedge is removed I have to use the loading lever to remove barrel. Here are pictures. I think the wedge spring is 'sticking' up and/or is too long for the rest of the wedge. ????

 

[bang]

Check the arbor to barrel fit. Some need a tad of shim to set it correct.

 

[Phil Coffins]

That spring is odd and if you’re not happy with a brand new pistol send it back.

 

[Coolhand]

I have a pietta 1860 army that the wedge doesn’t like to go in very far as well. As long as it makes it through and the spring is catching will work. Take some emery cloth and smooth out the arbor especially where the wedge slot is cut through inside and out of it. Might have a few burs or a fine edge rolled over. Take your barrel and cylinder off and the put the barrel back on 90 degrees from how it should be, the see if it feels like it is binding up when twisted.

 

[TrapperDude]

Check the arbor to barrel fit. Some need a tad of shim to set it correct.

Isn't shimming to make sure the end of the arbor touches the end of the arbor hole? How does that help with a tight wedge?

 

[Rich44]

There are two basic reasons why a barrel is hard to remove. The arbor or arbor hole has burrs (which is what it looks like and would need to be stoned out) or the two pins are not exactly in the right position and the barrel needs to be very lightly tapped or pushed on. If that is the case do nothing. It looks like the arbor picture shows a rough life.

One link and a PDF file will explain a lot.
black powder revolvers wedge stuck in barrel - Yahoo Video Search Results

 

[45D]

Isn't shimming to make sure the end of the arbor touches the end of the arbor hole? How does that help with a tight wedge?

With the barrel assembly pulled tight against end of the arbor ( because the shims or a spacer is in place) the wedge will get tight and stop . . . because it can't pull the barrel assy "on" any more . . . it's bottomed out.

Mike

 

[TrapperDude]

With the barrel assembly pulled tight against end of the arbor ( because the shims or a spacer is in place) the wedge will get tight and stop . . . because it can't pull the barrel assy "on" any more . . . it's bottomed out.

Mike

That's what I figured, as I've learned from reading your other posts. So, if a wedge is already too tight, wouldn't shimming make the problem worse?

 

[Eras Gone]

Have you shot it yet? Ive found on any revolver that the wedge fit will change after it has been shot a few times.

 

[45D]

Have you shot it yet? Ive found on any revolver that the wedge fit will change after it has been shot a few times.

The reason is because of the arbor length not being correct. If it doesn't bottom out so that you CAN get the wedge in tight ( driven in as the instructions say), then it is always a loose fit . . .which means it could move even from shot to shot.
Even if it's a newer Pietta with a correct length arbor, folks have been "taught" or still practice "finger tight", "hand tight " and that doesn't impart enough tension for the wedge. The "correct " Pietta's will get loose too if the wedge isn't seated well enough.

Mike

 

[45D]

That's what I figured, as I've learned from reading your other posts. So, if a wedge is already too tight, wouldn't shimming make the problem worse?

1st, what revolver ( make, new Pietta?)
2nd, why is it tight? Wedge slot alignment of arbor and of barrel ( linearly).
3rd, wedge too thick?

The reason I ask is because a newer Pietta is the only one I can think of that could possibly have a "too tight" wedge. All others can be installed either all the way or until barrel/cylinder contact is achieved.

Mike

 

[ormond tony]

So far: used 1400 and 1000 'grit' stone on arbor and wedge and wedge slot. Used file on arbor end 1/4 inch and 1/4 inch cylinder end and slot edges. Used metal file on wedge (thin edge). Result: I need to insert wedge screw almost all the way in; barrel goes in to 1/16 inch and completely in with a little bit of push; wedge (oiled and cleaned) inserted a bit roughly (feels like scraping) into slot and with a good push, the spring comes out (barely) and catches other side of barrel.
Lastly, I ordered a new wedge and screw from Taylor just in case the spring is the issue.(it looks abnormally long compared to wedge).

In response to those who wanted to know if the revolver is new, I looked high and low and could not find the code. All I see is the cip/PN and an O/x marks.
Thanks for everyone's help.

 

[maillemaker]

On most reproductions, the screw does next to nothing. What it is supposed to do is the lip on the spring is supposed to catch on the head of the screw, preventing it from falling out of the frame of the gun and getting lost. On all of my reproductions the wedge pops out just fine as if the screw wasn't even there.

The spring on your wedge appears to have been bent upwards. I've never seen one like that. Maybe someone was trying to get it to catch on the screw head.

 

[ormond tony]

On most reproductions, the screw does next to nothing. What it is supposed to do is the lip on the spring is supposed to catch on the head of the screw, preventing it from falling out of the frame of the gun and getting lost. On all of my reproductions the wedge pops out just fine as if the screw wasn't even there.

The spring on your wedge appears to have been bent upwards. I've never seen one like that. Maybe someone was trying to get it to catch on the screw head.

That is why I ordered a new wedge from Taylors that's supposed to fit the 1861 pietta colt. It also looks a bit longer than usual. Thanks.

 

[ormond tony]

Got the new wedge from taylors. Looks like the original with the spring a bit high. It catches inside the slot between the barrel and the arbor. Pushed it through. Still need hammer to get wedge back in until spring catches on other side. When starting wedge it goes in in a slant and I need to bump it straight. I guess I need to use a stone or file but afraid to make wedge space too wide. Possible???

 

[hawkeye2]

The spring does not have to go through enough to hook on the far side. It is there to catch on the head of the screw to prevent loss. It isn't necessary to remove or even loosen the screw. Do not use a file or stone in the slots in the arbor or barrel, you may regret it. I usually take a stone and very lightly break the 4 corners on the wedge. Check the surfaces of the wedge for burrs and remove them without changing the dimensions of the wedge. I posted somewhere a little while back that I have about an equal number of revolvers (factory fitted) where the wedge goes through enough for the spring to catch and those that don't. Once the wedge is seated a single firm tap with a hammer is all that is required to hold it here.

Using the loading lever to pop the barrel free is normal procedure. I have a couple of "Colts" that are tight enough that they require a tap on the barrel lug with a rawhide hammer to fully seat after the 2 locating pins have started in their holes. I suppose I could change that but I see no reason to.

 

[M. De Land]

I just got a pietta army colt 1861 and the wedge is very difficult. Taking the screw out doesn't help. There's give in the wedge spring but the wedge will only go just past even with the barrel. After wedge is removed I have to use the loading lever to remove barrel. Here are pictures. I think the wedge spring is 'sticking' up and/or is too long for the rest of the wedge. ????

The springs arn't really necessay if building a new wedge and it's fit correctly. They will stay in just fine by themselves if made a bit thicker and give better slot support. It was put there to keep from loosing it in the field when cleaning or cylinder changing on horse back.
.

 

[ormond tony]

Finally got out
today to shoot. All cylinders fired first time with #11 caps, 30 gr of goex, and 451 RB. After, I took the wedge out (had to push down spring when it meet arbor when exiting). Putting it together, the wedge fitted a bit snug and there was not as much space on the left side of the slot. I can live with it. BTW, I have other revolvers with wedges and know that they just have to get the spring to clip onto the other side of the slot to secure barrel to arbor. This is the first one that has a spring that is higher than any other (see previous pictures).
Thanks for all the suggestions. Looks like it will stay the way it is since the revolver shoots fine.