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Wedge key question?

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steelerzzz

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Recently while hunting with my GPR..I lost one of my wedge keys.I noticed in the TOW catalog that they recommend using a containment wire to prevent losing the keys. Anybody do this? Any pics? Thanks
 
I had a loose one in my GPR too but I just heated it up and bent it just a smidge so it would put a slight crown in it and apply pressure to hold it in. You have to be careful reinserting it that you don't have too much bend and blow out the escutcheons on the oppisite side or damage the stock. The bend should be ever so slight. Good luck! :thumbsup:
 
Try this.
3172281126_d8ecac4e15.jpg

Doesn't take much of a hit.Put with belly down to pull barrel to stock.
 
I'd agree just a bit of bend will suffice, and there will be no wires to deal with, or look funky
 
The containment wire they talk about is an internal pin that goes through a slotted key. The Hawken rifles always had slotted keys with a keeper pin or containment wire. They do not look funky as you cannot see them.

Put slotted keys in it, as that is the correct method, and be done with loosing them.
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/(S(o...TID=14&SUBID=160&STYLEID=717&PARTNUM=KEY-38-I

Not necessarily this one, but typical. There is a pin under the plate that goes through the slot to keep the pin.
 
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That is similar to the method Colts revolver keys use only without the spring keeper. I have never had a problem with the keys in any halfstock after a very gentle bend to the wedge, I figured it was the simplest,cheapest, quickest, easiest right now type fix and it worked for 25 years worth of halfstcok cappers, the style in TOW is not unpleasant to the eye just not realy needed but to each his own.
 
Bountyhunter said:
The containment wire they talk about is an internal pin that goes through a slotted key. The Hawken rifles always had slotted keys with a keeper pin or containment wire. They do not look funky as you cannot see them.

Put slotted keys in it, as that is the correct method, and be done with loosing them.
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/(S(o...TID=14&SUBID=160&STYLEID=717&PARTNUM=KEY-38-I

Not necessarily this one, but typical. There is a pin under the plate that goes through the slot to keep the pin.
If the pin is internal how does the slot come into play if it's hidden and if it works on a spring how do you depress it so the key can be removed. :confused:
 
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The pin is under the the escutcheon plate. It kid proofs the wedge pin so it wont come out. There is no spring. It is proper on Hawken and some other rifles. You do not need to take the wedge pins out to take the barrel out, only withdraw them enough to pull out of the under barrel staple. If you just have to take the wedge pin out, take the two screws out of the plate, and it will then come out. Actually a Hawken rifle is not proper without the slotted or captive wedges.

Look at Headhunters tutorial on his website. http://www.woodscustomrifles.com/id41.html
It is all explained there with pictures.
 
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Bountyhunter posted a link to an excellent site.

Here is one to an earlier discussion, with pictures, on this forum.

Link

Capturing wedges is real easy to do.

Good luck!
 
What prevents the wedge from working back to the opposite escutcheon and sitting in the "barrel removal" position disengaged from the barrel tenon and held from falling by the retainer pin? just a tight fit or is the wedge bent to fit snug from the beginning.
 
The wedges are a press fit before and after the pins are installed. The pins have no effect on the fit of the wedges through the escutcheons and the barrel tenons.
 
Ya know...this all sounds like a pretty good idea,especially on a Great Plains..with 2 different length keys.No more keeping track of which key goes in front or back and is the bend in the key is facing up or down! Thanks for all the great info guys. Oh, by the way...does anybody make slotted keys for the Lyman, or do they have to be made?
 
"The wedges are a press fit before and after the pins are installed"

I figured that, just wondering if bending the wedges was often needed to make a snug fit as is the situation on many production guns, the pin just keeps the wedge from falling out, I at first thought they were talking about something like the pistol wedges that stuck out on the far side and locked in place with a spring and catch that would not look good on a rifle.
 
I don't know if anyone makes slotted wedges for Lyman Great Planes rifles, but all it takes is about 5 minutes with a Dremel and an abrasive wheel. For me, the hardest part was getting started on the first wedge. I just secured the wedge in my vise, scribed a line down the center, then cut the slot free-hand. Use the vise itself for a brace and go slowly, letting the abrasive wheel do the work.

I'm a guy with three thumbs on each hand, so if I can do it, I am sure anybody can. :grin:
 
You can also drill a series of hole with a small drill bit, along that line, and THEN use files, or that abrasive wheel to remove the rest of the material. :thumbsup:
 
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