I've never had a problem with it. It's not rocket science. If eventually it gets stuck you are no worse off if you never touch it because then it will be stuck for sure. I just clean it and put a drop of oil on it before I put it back. One could always replace it with a better screw.
Well i got my Traditions Woodsman today...
- Thread starter GreenSmoke
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That’s great. But OP is in the learning stages, taking the first steps just like rest of us did at one time. This is NOT the time to play with the so-called clean out screw and add one more opportunity to have a problem. Enough going on with no bang first time out. Very troubling and disappointing to a new shooter. You may not of ever had a problem with this screw, but many have. Just my experience and opinion.
GreenSmoke
32 Cal
I do my own work on my modern firearms, so if i need to use my clean out screw to appropriately clean it, ill be alright, im just unsure whether it is actually a cleaning screw on my model, or a cosmetic screw that actually screws out the entire drum/bolster. And if i find myself needing to remove the drum, I'll get that handled as well, i am just so new to this style of firearms that i dont want to go twisting any screws until i know what i need to do.
So i should make sure that my new nipple is screwed in until it is quite tight (not tight enough to strip it obviously, but until it wont go any further.)
So i should make sure that my new nipple is screwed in until it is quite tight (not tight enough to strip it obviously, but until it wont go any further.)
That is exactly what I thought.
i clean my clean out screws each time i fire my rifles. My fishes name is Lucy
After you clear the weapon (fire or otherwise remove the powder and ball) I would study the area very closely where the hammer contacts the nipple. Alignment is very important for good ignition. The hammer face should fall pretty flat and centered on the nipple opening. Look for miss alignment left to right, front to rear and parallel (contact surfaces) also check to see the lock screws (left to right through stock) are not overtightened. Overzealous tightening can cause a miss alignment of the hammer and nipple. The clean out screw has no other function but to clean out the touch hole in the barrel. I take mine out every time I clean the weapon. I carry an extra and some anti-seize for the threads. Good hollow ground gunsmiths screw drivers will save you alot of grief. Sorry you had a dismal first experience. My first day out was similar and I became proficient at removing dryballs ! You'll get there. BTW, you don't like the way something fits or looks on your gun? Fix it! I'm sure someone on here will have some advice on how to do most anything from repair and maintenance to customizing and bedazzling. BTW, the very first battle I fought with my 1861 restoration was the original bolster/clean out screw. The original was hammered over pretty good and who knows how long it was in there? It did get ugly!
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That screw on the side of the drum is a plug to cover the manufacturing access to drill the flash channel to the breech. As a manufacturing artifact, it can be removed and has been advertised as a clean out screw. Read and heed the above posts. On the rifles I have with a threaded plug on the end of the bolster, I leavve it in place as cleaning is just as easy when the nipple is removed or when the screw is removed.
On tightening the nipple, you want the nipple to be completely installed, but snug not tight is the desired torque to be applied. Use a properly fitting nipple wrench and you will be fine. Of course use grease or never seizing lubricant when installing any threaded fastener.
appalichian hunter
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Lots of information has been passed to you do not become frustrated and go slow one step at a time, As to the clean out screw on bolster leave it be for now as good points have been made in issues of removal vs. non-removal, As you become more in tune with the rifle this will come also. As to that screw it does not hold the bolster in the barrel breach the bolster screws directly into the barrel breach I would not remove it. Buy a good set of gunsmith screw drivers they are worth the money in the long run,( mine are forresters) been using them for years on both the muzzle loaders and other guns. Never seen a nipple split like that interesting but things happen. Also welcome to the dark side these weapons are wonderful and you will have a great time with them.
Interested to know what happens when everything's fixed. I'm looking at getting into black powder and the Traditions Woodsman, and other models, including a kit is what I'm looking at.
There's a big demand for rifles these days and I'm hoping Traditions isn't making shortcuts on manufacturing.
There's a big demand for rifles these days and I'm hoping Traditions isn't making shortcuts on manufacturing.
If you ever want to remove the clean out screw do it each and every time your fire/clean the rifle. You miss one and it just may be permanent, Easy enough to get a quality screw to replace the factory one (I use a hex head). We talking an extra 2 min cleaning time and it does make a dryball easier to remedy. You pour powder directly into the bolster vs that hard left angle (or right of you shoot left). Yer choice and neither is incorrect.
I use white plumbers tape on that little screw. I remoce it oncea year. Its not an important screw. Easier to remove nipple and dribble in powder if it ever comes up dry.
Jump on in, the waters great!
There are guys selling BP guns for very fair prices right here on the forum. I bought a brand spankin new Pedersoli flinchlock right here! Kits are also a great way to start because it'll basically give you everything you need to know about the gun in detail. Me? I restored an original, then bought a reproduction. Both are alot of fun.
Neil
GreenSmoke
32 Cal
I did manage to get the ball and powder charge out, i didnt want to store the rifle with it loaded still after i had already "fired" it, call me paranoid, i still have all my fingers and ive only been on fire a handful of times, unrelated to blackpowder. Heh. Used my range rod with the ball puller screw, it was a HELL of a time getting the screw to start into the ball, i was very paranoid of hitting the rod to hammer the screw in, since it was all sitting on a powder charge still, i dont know how easy it is to set off powder with a smack, but i didnt want to find out the hard way.
I've got pretty much any tool i might need for doing my work, besides something very specific like nipple wrenches, gimme 2 days on that and ill have those too. Myself and my family have had a shop or two at our houses my whole life. Guitars, amps, leatherworking, woodworking, little bit of automotive work. And ive been buying and setting up for gun work for a few years now.
After i get this rifle up and running, and get myself acquainted with this style of firearms, I do want to get a kit to finish and put together. And assuming that goes well for me, I might have the interest to buy kits, and finish them for other people. That sort of thing.
I've got pretty much any tool i might need for doing my work, besides something very specific like nipple wrenches, gimme 2 days on that and ill have those too. Myself and my family have had a shop or two at our houses my whole life. Guitars, amps, leatherworking, woodworking, little bit of automotive work. And ive been buying and setting up for gun work for a few years now.
After i get this rifle up and running, and get myself acquainted with this style of firearms, I do want to get a kit to finish and put together. And assuming that goes well for me, I might have the interest to buy kits, and finish them for other people. That sort of thing.
longcruise
70 Cal.
Your clean out screw is not for drum removal, it fills the hole left when the flash channel is drilled end to end in the manufacture of the drum. Looking at the photo of your gun it's the typical large screw used on CVA and Traditions. They only get buggered up when they are not removed over many shooting sessions and get corroded in place. If you do lose it, a replacement is as near as the local hardware store.
GreenSmoke
32 Cal
I tried to take that screw out and it was absolutely refusing to budge. I got some oil on it right now, might try the screw again after a while. Its really does look it is just milled out of the same piece of metal as the drum, likes its a fake screw
sportster73hp
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I have a CVA and an invest arms percussion. One is through drilled and the other is just for show. Both can be removed neither disturbs the drum.
Not sure why it’s so important for you to remove it, but when/if you bugger up the screwdriver slot in the factory screw you can move on to drilling a hole in the screw and try an easyout. If you are on center of the screw when you drill the hole you can probably just replace the screw. If not on center (and damage the threads in the bolster) you will likely want to tap the hole in the bolster to a larger size. Just don’t use too long of a replacement screw or you may have issues with the nipple.
Or you could just leave the so-called clean out screw alone as many do.
Not long ago, I bought a new, old stock Traditions Tennessee rifle.
The clean out screw on mine is stuck. Moisture probably affected the threads while the gun sat in a warehouse for years.
For me it's a nonissue. I always remove the nipple when I clean the fire channel and use pipe cleaners to get in there.
The clean out screw on mine is stuck. Moisture probably affected the threads while the gun sat in a warehouse for years.
For me it's a nonissue. I always remove the nipple when I clean the fire channel and use pipe cleaners to get in there.
When I get a used gun that has not had the clean out screw "cared for" I just leave it alone. I prefer to keep em serviced but as stated by many in the "leave it be camp" it don't make a bit of difference in firing or cleaning
