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Well, now I've done it!

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I'm waiting on a stock shipped 2 day priority. Last scanned 4/23. Called the PO - you know what we know since your tracking it! Ordered twice since from the same company shipped ups ground - received in 3 days.
Good luck hope you see it soon
 
Yeah, I think they are getting a little defensive since there are so many sick, lame and lazy PO employees. Some are just awesome like the folks at my local PO but so many are just the opposite. They were out of the book The Art of Building a Pennsylvania Longrifle when it shipped and shipped it later. I took two days door yo door. USPS Priority same as the rifle kit.
 
Got a email this AM that my rifle just left Elk Grove Village IL at 4:19 AM. So after 3 1/2 weeks it's moving again. Maybe I'll get it this week.👍
 
Received mine yesterday after 3 weeks for a priority delivery :dunno: (it did show up with no issues). Good luck on your rifle delivery!
 
It's here!!!!🕺🥳
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Well, I have worked on the rifle since I got it Monday (day and a half). I have finally got the barrel set in the channel and started on the tang. I did take the lock apart so I could see if the touch hole location was going to line up with the pan when it was finished inlet. And it will be perfect. I took numerous pictures of the lock as I took it apart with the Ipad so I can get it back together. All the parts are safe in a Tupperware container. The screws are taped to the parts they go with and the tumbler and FLY are in a small Ziplock. The only issue, and I've decided that it doesn't matter to me is it came with a standard tang and not the lollipop tang. It was already breeched. Looking at pictures online of SMR's, I have seen all sorts of tangs even though a majority were lollipop. I even saw two piece tangs. At any rate, after the long wait for delivery and it not being a deal breaker for me, I decided to go with what I have and started cutting it in. Will post some pictures later.
 
OK, the barrel is in the stock with the tang inlet and underlugs pinned. I'm in the process of working on the lock mortice. I do have to do some shimming under the lock as the stock was inlet too deep, but I knew that going in but got a discount on a good piece of wood. I started looking at the trigger which has to be finish inlet into the stock and it appears that the base will need to be cut down shorter. The trigger is a Davis #4 double set. My question for the Gurus here is, where does the sear position over the trigger? I can't find anything online and the book I have explains it but I am just not sure. I have taken some pictures and drawn in where I think the sear needs to go. Am I correct? I don't want to start cutting it in if until I'm sure it is in the right spot. Thanks for your help and inspiration.
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On the last picture, I'm holding the rear trigger with my thumb so it is at the highest point. At rest, the sear would not be in contact with anything.
 
OK update one week in. I have the barrel in, tang, lock and trigger cut in. Tang bolt and lock bolts drilled and tapped. And barrel pinned. Just started cleaning up and polishing the trigger guard. I am enjoying this and have put in some long days.
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You also have the option of filing the lock bolster thinner to get it to seat tighter to the barrel flat. I did that with my last A-weight to avoid the "puffy cheeked" look that A-weight guns often take on due to the bolsters that seem more appropriately dimensioned for C and B weight barrels. When you do that you can also taper the front of the bolster thinner to kick out the lock tail to accentuate the swamped aspect, and get the wrist a little wider too. Just make sure you cut the screw slot in the bolster deeper BEFORE you start filing! That may also make the main spring break through in to the RR channel--not a big deal, but also may necessitate putting a little chamfer on the front of the main spring as well as the RR.
 
It's already done and seems to be fine. The shims weren't that thick. It is a B weight .50 cal. I used a thin slice of the same maple as the stock and epoxied it in. Then thinned it as needed until the bolster was tight and the lock plate the right depth all around. I spent the rest of the day Sunday and all day Monday sanding, filing and polishing the trigger guard and butt plate. Got them installed and now I'm working on working the ram rod channel deeper. The web was 5/16". I'm down to 3/16" on part of it. I am going to get it all at least down to 3/16" or maybe 5/32". I still have a lot of wood to remove on the rest of the stock and the ramrod pipes to pin in as well as the nose cap. I ordered a a center to center drill guide after the barrel pins didn't go as well as I wanted. I may re drill them (I also ordered a new set of underlugs). I am at least going to wait for the guide before I do the pipes.
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Well yesterday I got the fore stock shaped and the nose cap fitted. Today I inlet the ramrod pipes and made sure the rod goes in and out smoothly. I didn't pin them in yet as I am waiting for the new under lugs so I can drill all the pins at the same time. That didn't take but most of the morning. Then...…........ I started working on the stock around the lock and wrist. Still need a little more work on the wrist but after taking off a but load of wood around the lock, I think it looks a whole lot better. Still needs finish sanding.
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Now I have to work on the other side.. Should I make it match or just the same length?
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At 5/16" it must have looked like a fence post! You obviously realize that thin webs are the key to building a svelte looking LR.
 
Well, pretty much "in the white" Got all my pins drilled for the barrel and pipes. Trigger needs some tuning, finish sanding and wood prep, staining. Draw file the barrel, prep the other metal Brown the barrel and metal parts etc. Still a ways to go but kind of a milestone.
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Only a few little things the last couple of days. Put the tip on and shaped the ram rod. Cleaned out the channel in the stock so it slides in smooth with the tip on. Draw filed the barrel and cleaned up the lock plate and ****.
I have a quick question. The "kit" came with a standard vent liner (1/4x28 thread). Would I be better of and more happy with a White Lightening vent liner?
 
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