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roger zavoda

36 Cal.
Joined
Sep 16, 2006
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:hmm: what did i do wrong???got to go deer huntin this year loaded in the house did not cap till i got to my stand out back . waited all day saw a deer about 3:00 pm. went to shoot and nuthin even had a hard time clearing my rifle,temp. wasabout 20 degrees and a chance of snow should i have set the rifle out for awhile and loaded it later? seems my powder got wet

yella-bar
 
I'll pass on to you what's been suggested to me. I've had that problem twice...both in the last two years.

There are two things that will kill powder, water and oil. Keep both out of your barrel. I don't use petroleum products on the inside of my barrel, if you do then pop 3 caps or so through the gun BEFORE you load it to burn the oil off. (this necessitates full cleaning afterwards)

Also, as a preventative unscrew the nipple and drop a couple grains of powder in the channel then reinstall the nipple.

Finally use electrical tape over the muzzle end and use a kap kover (TM) as a safety and as further insurance against moisture entering through the nipple.

Don't know how much the tape helps but it's easy to do so if it helps then great, if not then I havne't lost much.
 
Same thing happened to me, i thought it was moisture but as these guys suggested it may well have been oil. I don`t think a person gets it all out with just a dry patch. As suggested on this board i`m going to wash it out with a patch soaked in alcohol from now on. I`m also going to put a toothpick in the vent hole and i like the tape over the barrel idea. :thumbsup:
 
:cursing: could it be that moisture entered through the steel of the barrel going from hot to cold? {a warm house} to the {cold} outside.had i loaded outside after i reached my stand area about a 15 min. walk the barrel would be cold enough that sweat would not be a factor? could a hot cold barrel be my problem?
yella bar.
 
I don't think going from the hot to cold has anything to do with it. I load in the house all the time, and I sometimes hunt in -20 temp. Going from cold to hot is not good though, that is when the barrel gets wet. It sounds like oil was the problem.
 
Condensation happens when you bring something from the cold into a warm and moist area. I think you had oil in your breech. I have a buddy who I introduced to muzzleloading. I thought I taught him how to do everything correctly. We went hunting one day and he tried a shot at a deer and his rifle wouldn't fire. We put powder down the nipple...etc but no smoke. When we got back to the house I cleared his barrel with my compressor. Out flew a ball that was followed by a wad of pure sludge. Too much oil. Try storing your rifle muzzle down for a couple days before the hunt and then snap a couple caps and wipe the bore with a dry patch before loading.

HD
 
Sorry about the misfire. That can be heartbreaking.

Hw did you clear your rifle (pull the ball, fire the gun)? That info would be helpful in making an accurate diagnosis.

The most likely problem was residual oil,
followed by a small obstruction of some sort, with water being the least likely.

Around here, we have high humidity all year round, and I have seen condensation form going from hot to cold. Because of this I load a cold barrel and keep the rifle locked outside. It may be superstition, but I feel better covering as many bases as I can. I've also begun removing the nipple and puttingin a few grains under the nipple, as per advice given on MLF.

bramble
 
I always leave my rifle in the garage the night befor I hunt. Put the muzzle right down to a rag and fire 3 or 4 caps at the car, my buddy gave me he!! for doing that. I then shot a nice deer walking into my stand after my buddy's gun refused to fire he loaded his at home the night before.

I never load at home and always fire my load or pull it before leaving the woods.
 
If you gun has been stored for months with either oil or any kind of lube in it, flush it with alcohol. Just plug the vent, or nipple, and pour it in. Slosh it around, to get at all the grease and oil, and then pour it out. You will be surprised at how much oil and grease will come out. Then pour in more alcohol, and repeat it, until your alcohol comes out clear. Pull the vent or nipple plugs, and pour some more alcohol down the barrel and let it flow out the vent or nipple. That will clear the oil and grease from the flash channel, nipple, or vent. You don't need a lot of alcohol for this last process.

I suggest that if the gun is percussion, you remove the nipple and blow through it. Then look through it at a light bulb. If you don't see light, get a nipple pick( wire) and run it through to remove whatever is blocking the light. Put a light drop of oil on the threads of the nipple. Use a pipe cleaner to dry and clean the flashchannel from the nipple to the chamber. Then use a cleaning patch with alcohol on it to run down the barrel, and get any remaining grease out of the breechplug. If you have a reduced size powder chamber, as is common on so many of the hawken or plains style guns these days, use a small bore brush with a patch around it to get into that chamber and clean it dry! Don't skimp on patches. You want that last one to come out as white as it goes in.

Only then are you assured that the flash channel, chamber, and bore are going to be free of the oil or lube you put in the gun when you put it away many weeks, or months ago.

When its cold outside, the relative humidity is very low. Taking a gun into your garage or leaving it in your truck, or on the porch of your hunting cabin is not going to cause a problem with the load. Just plug the touch hole, and put some kind of cap on the muzzle to keep rain water and snow OUT!PUt the hammer of a percussion gun down on a soft piece of leather you put on top of the nipple after removing the cap.

There was a suggestion made by a member here a few weeks ago that makes good sense, and is worth trying if you hunt with a flintlock. He puts a alcohol soaked cloth patch in his flashpan, with part of it extending over the barrel, and touch hole, When he closes the frizzen , the part sticking up acts like a candle's wick, and pulls moisture out of the barrel chamber through the touch hole, while also keeping mosture out of his pan.

I have not tried this yet, but I am going to do so. It might prove to be a good thing to do when walking out to a stand in the night, before its legal to load your gun( priming is considered loading in Illinois), so that you don't have to deal with plugging the vent in the night, or checking it to see its still in place in the dark. On rainy or misty warm days, it might also help keep both the powder charge dry, and the pan ready for priming when you hear something coming.

I know from experience that alcohol wiped on my flashpan dissipates, or evaporates, within seconds of removing the patch with the alcohol. In good light, you can watch it happen.
 
it sounds to me that oil is the culpret that is why you should fire 1-3 caps before loading to clear acces oil out of the breech area
 
I have found that it takes a suprisingly small obstruction in the nipple to stop it from firing the rifle. From a stored rifle I always wiped the bore out with a clean dry patch. But the most important thing was to snap a cap before loading! I would step outside and do this while holding the muzzle an inch or so from a leaf. The leaf should move at the shot or the nipple isn't clear and you need to do it again. Don't load until the cap preasure can move that leaf or your asking for trouble. With the nipple clear I have never had a problem there.

Britches
 
About the same thing happened to me a few years ago I got off work early to get in a short hunt on the last day of the season got home and didn't pop any caps just loaded the gun was on the way home and see a nice doe get ready and shoot cap go's off but not the gun did that 3 times befor the deer walked off. Had to put powder under the nipple do get the gun to fire. Now I will pop 2 to 3 caps befor I loade and I doin't have that happen much anymore usely only if I let it get wet. tom
 
It could have been oil but I'm tempted to blame condensation. Any time you load in a warm house, then go out into the cold, the metal is going to condense any humidity in the air into liquid. BP loves to absorb water and go inert. You might try letting yout gun sit outside till it reaches air temp, then load it before the hunt.
 
It happened to me. :redface: I have a CVA Kentucky 45 Cal. and you have to tap the side of the rifle to make sure some powder gets under the nipple. As long I do my part it works fine.
 
I got to agree with these guys..Oil sounds like the problem.I always snap 2 or 3 caps on the back Doorsteps then swab with a dry clean patch before loading every morning.Never had a problem yet but once hunted all morning in the snow and went back to the warm hunting camp for lunch and hung my Gun on the rack inside.Later that afternoon just before dark I drew a bead on a little buck only to have it misfire.I blame condensation for that mishap and never bring my loaded(uncapped)Muzzleloader inside till after it's shot off after dark.
Luckily the young Buck was to stupid to go far and I re-capped and eventually shot him a few minutes later.
 
I agree with oil probably being the culprit but respectfully disagree that snapping caps will always solve problem. In my younger days when using petroleum products I always swabbed the bore with a dry patch before hunting and then snapped caps before loading. I had hangfires and failure to fire all the time. I don't think I ever got all the oil out of the breech.

I never heard of alcohol or standing rifle muzzle down until discovering this forum. What got me all the way back into traditional muzzleloading was reading an article from Ross seyfried where he described that if you season your barrel with a natural lube misfires will not happen and neither will rust. Others may disagree but I have found it to be true. I have not had a misfire since switching to TC Bore Butter and a seasoned bore. No oil for me.

The alcohol worries me, won't the barrel rust?
 
The alcohol should not cause rust unless the barrel is hot when you use the alcohol, and the relative humidity where you are cleaning the barrel is high. If you have your lube, and a cleaning patch handy, to lube the bore, it should be fine. I would recommend using Ballistoil, or mineral oil, over WonderLube, but then you will need to consider using alcohol to get it out. The problem with WonderLube is that it does not keep the barrel from rusting for very long, according to tests done here. Ballistoil out performed all other substances as a rust preventative.
 
I've been hearing about Ballistoil on this and other forums. Did a google search to try to find somewhere to order some. Haven't had any luck. Any sugestions?
 
JohnnyRB,
Track of the Wolf has Ballistol[url] http://www.trackofthewolf.com...es/partList.aspx?catID=6&subID=47&styleID=133[/url]
Great stuff!
Bob
 
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