Hi all. Someday, I hope soon, I would like to build a gun. I have a piece of wood I bought as gun stock from a guy at a gun show. A friend of mine who builds guns said it was not wide enough for a long rifle. The width of the blank is 1 5/8". The length of the blank seems it can fit a 48" barrel. Is there anything I can considering buildig with this blank? Thanks
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What can I build?
- Thread starter fvigo
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Guest
If it is 1 5/8" wide it isn't wide enough to make a moulding out of.
If it is 1 5/8" thick it still isn't thick enough for a gun stock.
Not sure if you mean thick or wide???
Woody
If it is 1 5/8" thick it still isn't thick enough for a gun stock.
Not sure if you mean thick or wide???
Woody
Francesco: You didn't say if your blank was rough sawed or if the sides are finished fairly smooth.
If it is rough sawed, you will end up in removing at least 1/8 per surface to get it smooth. 1 5/8 - 1/4 only leaves about 1 3/8 thickness. That is very thin. I'm not saying it's TOO thin because a creative mind full of determination can do a lot of things.
Assuming we are talking about a side lock gun, I measured several of mine and find the width of the thinnest one, measured from the lock side to the lockplate side is just a hair under 1 1/2 wide.
If your stock blank has a good finish on it's sides (thickness) so you don't have to remove much wood, you might be able to make one of the late period (1850ish) style gun.
Perhaps a Full Stock Ohio style??
In my TOTW catalog, they show several buttplates which are about 1 1/8 to 1 3/16 wide. These narrow plates have quite a bit of hook to them, typical of the 1850s.
This coupled with a 42 inch long, straight 13/16 octogan barrel (.32 thru .45 cal available) could, IMO, make a very slender but nice rifle. :thumbsup:
If it is rough sawed, you will end up in removing at least 1/8 per surface to get it smooth. 1 5/8 - 1/4 only leaves about 1 3/8 thickness. That is very thin. I'm not saying it's TOO thin because a creative mind full of determination can do a lot of things.
Assuming we are talking about a side lock gun, I measured several of mine and find the width of the thinnest one, measured from the lock side to the lockplate side is just a hair under 1 1/2 wide.
If your stock blank has a good finish on it's sides (thickness) so you don't have to remove much wood, you might be able to make one of the late period (1850ish) style gun.
Perhaps a Full Stock Ohio style??
In my TOTW catalog, they show several buttplates which are about 1 1/8 to 1 3/16 wide. These narrow plates have quite a bit of hook to them, typical of the 1850s.
This coupled with a 42 inch long, straight 13/16 octogan barrel (.32 thru .45 cal available) could, IMO, make a very slender but nice rifle. :thumbsup:
Guest
Well not sure what you could build out of it. It is not thick enough for a gun stock . And there isn't enough to do many other projects. Ya could use it to practice relief carving if that is somethng your wanting to do down the road.
Woody
Woody
What cheekpiece? ::
At the risk of getting blown out of the water by a number of people here on the forum, I will say there were most likely some guns made without a cheekpiece.
I made one without a cheekpiece so although it might not be PC, it can be done!
Many of the early shotguns didn't have cheekpieces!
Beware of my advice though. I've been called a rebel and a non-conformist more than once.
In my case, it was a precarved left hand stock with the barrel channel cut and the ramrod hole drilled. The lock was not inletted.
It was such a beautiful piece of wood, and at such a great price I couldn't pass it up so I bought it.
As the cheekpiece was on the right side of the butt, and I wanted to make a right handed rifle out of it, the cheekpiece had to go. :boohoo:
At the risk of getting blown out of the water by a number of people here on the forum, I will say there were most likely some guns made without a cheekpiece.
I made one without a cheekpiece so although it might not be PC, it can be done!
Many of the early shotguns didn't have cheekpieces!
Beware of my advice though. I've been called a rebel and a non-conformist more than once.
In my case, it was a precarved left hand stock with the barrel channel cut and the ramrod hole drilled. The lock was not inletted.
It was such a beautiful piece of wood, and at such a great price I couldn't pass it up so I bought it.
As the cheekpiece was on the right side of the butt, and I wanted to make a right handed rifle out of it, the cheekpiece had to go. :boohoo:
You could make a very slim Vincent style, or one of the many Midwest types of halfstocks with a small caliber and small barrel (13/16's). A lot of these slim little rifles did not have a cheek piece, even if they did, it wasn't much.
If you are worried about the size of the but plate from side to side you could always thin it down by file work.
Is the wood maple? Walnut? :m2c:
If you are worried about the size of the but plate from side to side you could always thin it down by file work.
Is the wood maple? Walnut? :m2c:
broken arrow
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If you want a squirrel rifle your blank is plenty wide enough. Go with a 13/16 or 7/8 barrel in 32 or 36 caliber, a small lock (like a pistol lock), single trigger, small triggerguard, and narrow buttplate.
You could make it a 3/4 or 2/3 scale rifle.
You could make it a 3/4 or 2/3 scale rifle.
I agree it's doable, but maybe not for a first try by a first-timer. Laying out a stock, etc, is not easy for a first-time project and I'd suggest building a "kit" or two first then getting a blank with some extra meat on it. You might pull it off but no room for error. It can be easy to get discouraged if you put a lot of effort into something and then it starts to go downhill.
Guest
I agree with you on this one rich 100%, that's why I said it's not thick enough to use for a gun stock in my other reply.
Woody
Woody
Guest
War Club. You can get some really nice iron trade blades if you look around hard enough. I can probably point you in the direction of a couple of guys.
Stumblin
Stumblin
Guest
Zonnie is on the right track on this one I think.
This is a case for the creative mind.
Componants will require thought and searching.
consider this:
Tip Curtis carries 3/4" across the flats GM barrels in up to .40 caliber.
Using a 3/4" barrel would leave 3/4" to work in lock moldings and a hint of a cheek piece. All you really need is width of the barrel + double the width or the lock bolster. 3/4" + 3/16" +3/16" = 1 1/8"
We build our cheekpieces way too prominant today. On some of the early guns they are just a "hint" of a raised surface.
If the blank has nice figure I would build a "late era" gun. Long and slinder. A Vincent or Bedford rifle comes to mind immidiately.
If the wood is not really "special" it may be too much for a new builder to work around. You have absolutely no margin for error.
:m2c:
This is a case for the creative mind.
Componants will require thought and searching.
consider this:
Tip Curtis carries 3/4" across the flats GM barrels in up to .40 caliber.
Using a 3/4" barrel would leave 3/4" to work in lock moldings and a hint of a cheek piece. All you really need is width of the barrel + double the width or the lock bolster. 3/4" + 3/16" +3/16" = 1 1/8"
We build our cheekpieces way too prominant today. On some of the early guns they are just a "hint" of a raised surface.
If the blank has nice figure I would build a "late era" gun. Long and slinder. A Vincent or Bedford rifle comes to mind immidiately.
If the wood is not really "special" it may be too much for a new builder to work around. You have absolutely no margin for error.
:m2c:
flaming canvas
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I think it was on track's website that they will soon be stocking 3/4 in barrels. With that thin of a piece of wood, every little bit helps.
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Franchesco,
I have a suggestion.... :sorry: :m2c:,
I think you will have a heartbreaker there. My opinion, is that you need to use that nice piece of wood for another project, and buy something large enough for a gunstock.
Even the slimmer guns, Ohio's, Vincents, you just don't have enough wood.
I am working on a Vincent right now,and the finished lock panels are a full 1 1/2" wide. Of course this is a 7/8" barrel, but just think.... there is just no room for adjustment or error at all.
I'd just hate to see you turn it into kindling after hours of your own labor :cry:
I have a suggestion.... :sorry: :m2c:,
I think you will have a heartbreaker there. My opinion, is that you need to use that nice piece of wood for another project, and buy something large enough for a gunstock.
Even the slimmer guns, Ohio's, Vincents, you just don't have enough wood.
I am working on a Vincent right now,and the finished lock panels are a full 1 1/2" wide. Of course this is a 7/8" barrel, but just think.... there is just no room for adjustment or error at all.
I'd just hate to see you turn it into kindling after hours of your own labor :cry:
F,
The question is what do you want to build? I was never a big fan of tryinh to make something work.
You can't really build anything with that stock. Castoff and the cheekpiece. I would never consider building a rifle less than 2 inches thick.
SP
The question is what do you want to build? I was never a big fan of tryinh to make something work.
You can't really build anything with that stock. Castoff and the cheekpiece. I would never consider building a rifle less than 2 inches thick.
SP
Metalshaper
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IF you want to shoot something different, there are always various underhammer designs that can be used. I've built my son a "Home shop" variant of the old H&A style. The piece of wood I was given to use, was not much over 1 1/2" wide.
I can be done.. It just may not be what everyone else expects. I have also built and am shooting a Muley
Respect Always
Metalshaper
I can be done.. It just may not be what everyone else expects. I have also built and am shooting a Muley
Respect Always
Metalshaper
CrackStock
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The question is, are you serious about building a gun with this wood? If so, take the plunge and be very careful. Just understand that you are starting out with a demanding project that will likely be an odd rifle when done. It may also be very attractive in its own way with very slender lines. Most guns made today are far too clubby.
As Ghost suggested said, a Bedford would be nice. I would not go with the Vincent as they are generally half stocks and you might not wish to waste the full stock of the wood. I might also consider a small lock Tennessee.
If it does not pan out, just use the parts in another stock and consider it all a learning experience.
YMHS,
CrackStock
As Ghost suggested said, a Bedford would be nice. I would not go with the Vincent as they are generally half stocks and you might not wish to waste the full stock of the wood. I might also consider a small lock Tennessee.
If it does not pan out, just use the parts in another stock and consider it all a learning experience.
YMHS,
CrackStock
JBark11957
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Have you considered a few pistols?
Wow! I am glad to see all the feedback regarding my question. I am serious about building a gun and really appreciate all the suggestions. I have yet to make my mind up on what to do.
As I mentioned before, I want to build a squirrel rifle. My wife really wants one. I will probably explore this option and see if I think I can make it work. If that fails, I may decide to try a pistol. I already purchased a booklet from TOTW with pistol plans. My last resort is to practice shaping with it or perhaps make a walking stick ::.
Keep the suggestions coming!
As I mentioned before, I want to build a squirrel rifle. My wife really wants one. I will probably explore this option and see if I think I can make it work. If that fails, I may decide to try a pistol. I already purchased a booklet from TOTW with pistol plans. My last resort is to practice shaping with it or perhaps make a walking stick ::.
Keep the suggestions coming!
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