What do you as a builder use to finish a stock?

[alfaguyml]

I have used a mixture of tung oil, linseed and tru-oil, but the important thing for me is to only use a finger dip at a time and rub it in to spread across the stock. 10 or so coats, one per day, with 0000 steel wool application between them. If too shiny at the end, a going over with rotten stone will tone it down. I like the discussion on Sutherland-Welles tung oil though and will order some today.

 

[Metalshaper]

I would have to look, but think it was a semi-gloss.. but with the hand rubbing and such, you can tailor it to be what you want.
If you know what your doing, a french polish is possible?? I just follow the directions and use lots of rubbing in with the hands and
clean, lint free cotton cloth to burnish it at the end..

Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan

 

[Vaino]

I use the following products and process to achieve excellent moisture resistance along w/ a very low sheen finish. The stock actually looks like there isn't any finish on it.

After the stain is dry, the stock is rubbed hard w/ 0000 steel wool to remove any unabsorbed stain and also to lighten the high wear areas. The stock is then very smooth.

2 generous wipe on/wipe off coats of LMF sealer are applied and the soak in time is approx. 10 mins. w/ a complete dry between coats. When the last coat is dry, a hard rub w/ 0000 steel wool removes any surface sealer. The stock is vacuumed and 2 sparse coats of Wahkon Bay Trucoat are applied w/ the fingers w/ a complete dry between coats. The staining and applying the finish take 36 hrs. The final finish is a little shiny after the last coat dries but then turns dull and requires a few mins of rubbing w/ a fluffy towel to achieve some sheen.

The LRs shown below were finished as described above......Fred

 

[Dr5x]

YEARS BEFORE I HAD ANY INTEREST INML RIFLES I KNEW A MAN WHO WORKED IN THE VERY FINE EXTREMELY EXPENSIVE FURNITURE MAKING BUSINESS IN ITALY/
HE TOLD ME THST THEY WOULD PUT AS MANY AS 26 COATS OF BOILED LINSEED OIL ON THE FURNITURE, HAND RUBBING TILL THE WARMTH OF THE RUBBING WORKED THE OIL INTO THE WOOD. SEEMED RIDICULOUS THEN AND STILL DOES BUT THOSE ITEMS FINISHED THAT WAY OR SAID TO BE FINISHED THAT WAY COULD TAKE ALL SORTS OF ABUSE AND SHOW NO SIGNS OF IT.
I USED TO GIVE MY RIFLES AN ANNUAL WARM RUB DOWN WITH BOILED LINDSEED OIL SLIGHTLY THINNED WITH TURPENTINE AND HAD A PRETTY INDESTRUCKTABLE FINIS AFT A FEW YEARS.

GUTCH

]

I use the following products and process to achieve excellent moisture resistance along w/ a very low sheen finish. The stock actually looks like there isn't any finish on it.

After the stain is dry, the stock is rubbed hard w/ 0000 steel wool to remove any unabsorbed stain and also to lighten the high wear areas. The stock is then very smooth.

2 generous wipe on/wipe off coats of LMF sealer are applied and the soak in time is approx. 10 mins. w/ a complete dry between coats. When the last coat is dry, a hard rub w/ 0000 steel wool removes any surface sealer. The stock is vacuumed and 2 sparse coats of Wahkon Bay Trucoat are applied w/ the fingers w/ a complete dry between coats. The staining and applying the finish take 36 hrs. The final finish is a little shiny after the last coat dries but then turns dull and requires a few mins of rubbing w/ a fluffy towel to achieve some sheen.

The LRs shown below were finished as described above......Fred

View attachment 4787 View attachment 4788 View attachment 4789

 

[Vaino]

Oops! Seeing the OP requires 5 builds....here's 3 more w/ the same finish as described previously. .....Fred

 

[Vaino]

I always enjoy viewing pics of other builders and those CLOSE UP views by Dave Person, Stophel and some others display quality workmanship and artistry and lend a lot of interest to a topic and/or post. These pics are also educational to the many builders who have taken the step to make MLers.
So...don't be hesitant to post pics of your first build, some later ones or whenever they were built......Fred

 

[Darto]

One thing about linseed oil. Even if no flame, just exposure to the air will cause a rag with oil on it to burst into flames. It happened to us! Luckily the smoke alarm sounded or we would have lost our house to fire. And at night we would not have heard the alarm, probably. . It takes hours of time before this occurs to an oily rag (such as during the night after using the oil in the daytime).

In other words when done, don't leave an oily paper towel or rag laying around in the garage or something. And keep the lid on the can tight so no air can enter.

You can google around the net to see where others have not had a happy ending like we did.

 

[BlackHillsBob]

sand with the grain. stain with leather dye, color of your choise. a few coats, let dry good then wash stock clean with water and let dry. then cut watco danich iol by 1/3 danish oil and 2/3 thinner. apply coat after coat untill it wont take any more. after each coat is applied, wipe stock clean inabout 10 minutes. watco only fills the pores, it cant build up on the surface. when pores are filled keep wipeing dry fro a few days untill the finish is dry. wet sand a little with the grain with 300 or 400 grit. let dry completely. for the final finish get the best actilic clear high gloss auto mobile top coat the auto store has. make sure it is acrilic. do real light coats, take your time, no heavy spraying. when it is all covered and even then comes what most miss. go to the internet and buy a bottle of HUTS PLASTIC POLISH. get some 100 percent flannel cloth and spend a few days rubbing the finish out. if you rub through the top coat add a few more layers. this method with bring the grain out of any hard wood and give you a finish like you have never seen before. if your wood is a reall good one with lots of grain you want to bring out you can also use a stain beside the leather dye called chromium trioxide available at dixie. when it is dry wash it off also. no contact to the skin, it is not a healthy product. however when in the wood and covered their is no danger. many shooters think the beech wood used in traditions and such side locks have no grain, use my method and you will see grain better than a lot of good maples. my method is simple, and always gets the best results. what ever method you use rub out the finish with HUTS PLASTIC polish. also the 5f polish from brownells works about the same as huts but is way more expensive. ive built way more than 5 muzzleloaders and it took me awhile to figure out the above but i finally got their.

 

[32 ballard xl]

When mixing marine spar varnish, boiled linseed oil, and turpentine, are you using a gloss finish varnish?
Thanks
Tom
Ou

Even more important - is he using a traditional marine spar varnish, or one of the newer poly-whatever 'marine spar varnishes'? My experience as a boatyard guy whos masts and booms had to survive a hard seasons use is that only traditional varnish got the job done. The poly stuff flows better, levels better, looks prettier, is cheaper, but does not protect the wood nearly as well as traditional (and hard to find) marine spar varnish. I would hope you all can understand how important protecting wooden masts and booms are.

 

[old ugly]

Even more important - is he using a traditional marine spar varnish, or one of the newer poly-whatever 'marine spar varnishes'? My experience as a boatyard guy whos masts and booms had to survive a hard seasons use is that only traditional varnish got the job done. The poly stuff flows better, levels better, looks prettier, is cheaper, but does not protect the wood nearly as well as traditional (and hard to find) marine spar varnish. I would hope you all can understand how important protecting wooden masts and booms are.

what brand name and product name should I be looking for as a traditional type of spar varnish?
thanks
tom
ou

 

[Metalshaper]

I just used Spar varnish, probably the more modern type? but never had a problem with any gun I've used it on.. think it was semi-gloss but forgot to look,,

here are a couple of mine with Old Durable on them ( sorry to trot these out again )

 

[old ugly]

very nice.
I had an under hammer at one time, I loved it, don't know why I ever sold it. I guess because it wasn't as nice as yours....

 

[32 ballard xl]

what brand name and product name should I be looking for as a traditional type of spar varnish?
thanks
tom
ou

I stopped work when I reached 75, so I don't know who makes what these days. My suggestion is to take strong reading glasses or a magnifying glass and a LED flashlight along and read the ingredients very carefully. I used to use Glouchester Marine Spar Varnish because it was pretty much all natural. On a raw mast I started with 20% Spar varnish, 50% Raw Linseed oil, and 30% steam-distilled turpentine. The turp carries the rest deep into the wood, raw linseed polymerizes in God's Good Time, and locks into the pores of the wood like grim death. Boiled linseed kicks off too soon to suit me, and doesn't bond as well. If the wood is dry, you'll be able to treat it again in 3-4 hours. The next day, repeat. Now start seeing when some of the oil stays on the surface. Don't put any more on the wood until it has all been sucked in to the wood. I've been known to cheat by doing other coats everywhere except where the oil is standing, (or "wet"). Not very long until it takes all night to absorb the oil. Then I start upping the varnish in the mix, and reducing the turps and linsed oil. Real spar varnish has Japan drier in it which kicks of the l. oil quicker. On a mast or boom, I woul finish up with 3 or 4 thinned coats of varnish, carefully applied, in order to keep my more "yachty" customers happy.

 

[old ugly]

I use Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil.

I like a deep finished look on my guns so I often apply over 10 coats before I'm finished.
If I was just looking at protecting the wood the job could probably be done with 3 or 4 coats but I wouldn't use less than 3.

Zonie, I used some of the Tru-oil,it sets up quik.
do you cut it to slow the cure time down? maybe with linseed? It

 

[Zonie]

Zonie, I used some of the Tru-oil,it sets up quik.
do you cut it to slow the cure time down? maybe with linseed? It

No. I don't try to slow down its curing time.

I have been known to put one coat of linseed oil on the stock to begin the finishing process because it can soak deeply into the wood. After giving the linseed a day or so to fully soak in, I switch to the Tru-oil for the rest of the coats.

 

[Bad Karma]

I just used Spar varnish, probably the more modern type? but never had a problem with any gun I've used it on.. think it was semi-gloss but forgot to look,,

here are a couple of mine with Old Durable on them ( sorry to trot these out again )
View attachment 5019

View attachment 5020

I’m up for more pictures of the mule ear... beautiful rifle, who built the lock if you don’t mind my asking?

 

[Metalshaper]

I’m up for more pictures of the mule ear... beautiful rifle, who built the lock if you don’t mind my asking?

It's Mine! I fumbled along in my shop and ended up with this for my efforts. Not the best lock by any means bit it's been going strong for nearly 20 years now ( WOW , just realized that ) Here are a couple more locks I made and need to finish.

top one is a Medberry pattern and the other is MY take on making it with an outside mainspring..< for a SMR gun maybe >

Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan

 

[Bad Karma]

It's Mine! I fumbled along in my shop and ended up with this for my efforts. Not the best lock by any means bit it's been going strong for nearly 20 years now ( WOW , just realized that ) Here are a couple more locks I made and need to finish.

top one is a Medberry pattern and the other is MY take on making it with an outside mainspring..< for a SMR gun maybe >
View attachment 5916
View attachment 5917

Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan

Very nice, I admire the talent it takes to build from scratch like that...

 

[45man]

Some very fine work fellas. I built many rifles and also custom stocks for modern rifles. I am now 81 and shake more. I found laural Mountain is the best stain ever. You can buy cans of it in Cherry, maple and walnut and can blend colors. I like a tad of cherry in walnut. Sorry about the font size. I don't like to shout.
I use Birchwood-Casey tru Oil and seal the stocks first with 0000 steel wool between. Then I build many coats but found a problem when rubbing out. Each coat was dry and the next just too thin so I got rub through's. I then thinned the finish to use my touch up spray gun. I spray a coat and let it set up but still sticky, then spray another, over and over until I get the thickness. This way the new coat is not separate. Now the hard part is to set the stock aside for a week or more until the finish can't be smelled. I have propped stocks in my truck in the sun to speed drying. You can then rub it with rotten stone without breaking layers.
I don't like linseed oil, takes 500 years to dry! My friend uses tung oil and gets a nice job.
Watch some spar varnishes, hard to find a good one that water does not harm. I used it on outside wood and like a boat, it needed refinished every year.

 

[old ugly]

I watched the kibler video where he stained and finished the gun stock. He also used a dowel to burnish the finish.
Question
How dry is the finish before it Is burnished?
Thanks
Ou
Tom