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Can those with more experience than me read my patches and give me your opinion? Thank you, Jim
84AFF377-54B9-46D0-83D7-B3546A42788E.jpeg
 
It’s a T/C Cherokee in .32 caliber. These are .015 pillow ticking with 35 gns of 2f goex .310 balls. I do believe I need to smooth the crown as sometimes there is cut patching after I use the short starter.
 
It’s a T/C Cherokee in .32 caliber. These are .015 pillow ticking with 35 gns of 2f goex .310 balls. I do believe I need to smooth the crown as sometimes there is cut patching after I use the short starter.
Do you have to hammer the ball in using .310 and .015 patches? I have two 32 cal rifles. Both use a .310 and a .010 patch. I find that with my 32s a thick tight patch combo isn’t necessary for good accuracy. The same doesn’t seem to work in larger caliber rifles. Anything over an .010 patch in mine is almost impossible to load.
 
To me it just looks like the fraying is the patch that goes beyond the ball which happens, especially with heavy loads. Are your patches allot bigger than they need to be? How are your groups? How much powder are you using?
 
Do you have to hammer the ball in using .310 and .015 patches? I have two 32 cal rifles. Both use a .310 and a .010 patch. I find that with my 32s a thick tight patch combo isn’t necessary for good accuracy. The same doesn’t seem to work in larger caliber rifles. Anything over an .010 patch in mine is almost impossible to load.
I use 12-15 grains of 3F Swiss in my 32s. Accurate and easy on patches. Deadly on squirrels.
 
I’m still learning this stuff. I’ve been playing around with different things. Mostly I like .315 balls with .010 patches and 20 grr of powder. I read where some guys use 30-35 go of powder. I thought I would try it. It actually shot pretty good with that much powder. We got snow this week and I picked up my patches and didn’t like what I saw. That’s why I asked. I am going to crown my barrel though. I need to get the right sand cloth.
 
Do you have to hammer the ball in using .310 and .015 patches? I have two 32 cal rifles. Both use a .310 and a .010 patch. I find that with my 32s a thick tight patch combo isn’t necessary for good accuracy. The same doesn’t seem to work in larger caliber rifles. Anything over an .010 patch in mine is almost impossible to load.
It’s pretty hard to get started, but once I get past the short starter it isn’t bad. That’s pretty interesting your thoughts on small bores and bigger bores.
 
The one on the left doesn't look too bad. The one on the right looks like it might have been cut at the muzzle when it was loaded.

As long as the patch isn't torn or burned thru where the ball meets the bore, the patch did it's job. The frayed material ahead of the contact area is normal. It is what happens to cloth when it is hit by a blast of supersonic air as it leaves the muzzle.
 
The one on the left doesn't look too bad. The one on the right looks like it might have been cut at the muzzle when it was loaded.

As long as the patch isn't torn or burned thru where the ball meets the bore, the patch did it's job. The frayed material ahead of the contact area is normal. It is what happens to cloth when it is hit by a blast of supersonic air as it leaves the muzzle.
I’d have never thought of that. I learn so much on this forum.
 
is that a possibility? It fits in the barrel fine. I never thought of that!
Sure it is. Especially if it has that stupid little flared bell mouth on it. It may fit the barrel without a patch in the way but add a patch and it’s jamming it between the crown and short starter and damaging the patch.
 

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I think we always automatically blame the crown or barrel for blown patches when half the time it’s probably the starter. Especially if it snaps when you wack it you probably just cut the patch. I just showed my .32 short starter with a .32 ball. It’s a short piece of 5/16 dowel with the end tapered to completely clear a patch. The big end is a 1” piece of dowel. There is a little cup in the end from a 5/16 ball nose end mill to keep it centered.
 
To do a quick crowning check . Straighten out a 2 1/2" paper clip. Put about 1/8 " of the wire in a vise and hammer it down at a right angle. To check for a burr at the crown , insert the wire hook and slowly drag the hook back out of the bore over each land and groove. If there is a burr there you might be able to find it easily. Crowning a gun barrel isn't too hard to do. Something like the ball end of a ball/peen hammer and some valve grinding compound , plus a small amount of elbow grease will git 'er done..........oldwood
 
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