What does "Tuning" a flintlock entail?

[S.Kenton]

I just got my first flinter..I'ts an Austin Halleck. I have not shot it yet..nor took any pics of it.
The rifle is a half stock 50 cal. flinter, some of you may have seen it in our classifed ads.
Anyhow what does the term " tuning" mean in flintlock terms?

 

[rich pierce]

Reducing friction so it's faster and more reliable is #1. Next is to change things that need changing to get it to function properly and that would vary from lock to lock even with the same lock model. If a frizzen does not flop open properly, for example, this might mean the frizzen spring, the teat on the frizzen that acts as a cam, or even the angle of attack of the cock needs to be changed. Not for the inexperienced.

 

[Dphar]

I just got my first flinter..I'ts an Austin Halleck. I have not shot it yet..nor took any pics of it.
The rifle is a half stock 50 cal. flinter, some of you may have seen it in our classifed ads.
Anyhow what does the term " tuning" mean in flintlock terms?

Its something that is usually done case by case depending on the state of the lock being "tuned".
Usually it means perhaps changing the relationship of the cock to the frizzen and/or adjusting springs, which are often too weak or sometimes too strong.
It can be as little as some polishing to as much as welding up misplaced holes and making new springs and other parts.
Example.
Tumbler hole is so misaligned the lock is not really safe and certainly not durable due to sear/sear notch misalignment.

Weld hole drill and ream. Turn tumbler shaft in lathe to clean casting marks and fit new hole.

Sear now engages tumbler notches correctly.

Also needed mainspring and frizzen spring rearched.

However, the lock, unless it has gross errors, should be considered OK until proven otherwise. While someone experienced with the lock might know what it needs the neophyte would not. So shoot the rifle and see how it works. If its not broke there is not need to fix.
I am a incurable tinkerer and recently made some quick and easy adjustments to a Chambers lock :nono: and had to put it back the way it came. So its possible to overthink things...

Note:
Flintlocks have a learning curve and having an experienced FL shooter to consult and even shoot the rifle a few times can be a great help.

Dan

 

[Zoar]

My 54 Caliber flintlock is tuned to B-flat....

:wink:

Naw, just foolin.... What they said.

 

[ohio ramrod]

Do you want a "C sharp" or "E flat"?. Basicly tuning a flintlock is something that can be simple, or extreme. Try the rifle and see if it throws a consistant spark. Then if not your fun begins. But it is a fact that "If it ain't broke-don't fix it" I have had more problems with flintlocks that people have "tried to fix it " than with any brought to me to work on in the first place. :idunno: :idunno:

 

[S.Kenton]

Thanks guys and Thanks for the pics Dan!
I had heard the term, but was unsure of what it actually meant..My take on this, after reading your comments is, the proper adjustment of the lock and frizzen to ensure reliable spark..
My lock moves and functions as it should. It throws good reliable spark as long as the "cut" flint is knapped often to keep a sharp edge. I threw some 3f powder in the pan and it burnt it reliably 10 out of 10 times. I would however like to get some English flint to try. I'm not a great flint knapper, but I have some flint I found during my arrowhead hunting expeditions that I have worked with to fit into my hammer. THAT sparks really nice.. alot better than the "cut" flint.
Anyhow now I'm rambling..Thanks again for the explanations. :v

 

[S.Kenton]

Thanks Don. I kinda figured if it WAS broke I SHOULD NOT be the one to fool with it...I would simply make a small road trip and take the flinter to a man by the name of Ohio Ramrod and let him fiddle with it.. :haha:

 

[HuntAway]

Bout the only thing I've done to my locks were to polish the pan and I have filed the pan / frizzen a bit so they mated flush. Other than that, I replaced the vent liner with a RMC liner. Must have got a couple of good one's cause that is all I've done and they shoot fine.

HA

 

[Rod Lassey]

I had a lock like Dan's a couple of years ago---when I got it, I wondered why all the bridle screws were loose. I tightened them up and the tumbler wouldn't move, they were binding so bad. A closer look revealed that the shoulder on the cock was barely catching the edge of the lockplate. The hole for the tumbler shank was nowhere near 90 degrees to the plate. I didn't want to fool with it, so I flogged it off on eBay, with the warning to whoever bought it that it would need some work. Got an L&R (same style of lock, different manufacturer) that functioned well after a bit of cleaning up and tuning.

Rod