What gun do I have

[Cole]

Hey, I'm new to the forum, but I've been doing some research on my new gun I bought it for 50 bucks from my neighbor. I cant find out really what it is. My thoughts are it's a investarm from cabela's but here's the info

Black powder only

Made in italy

54 cal

Serial: 378414


This is all it that's on the gun
It has 2 triggers one for the hair trigger.
23" barrel
It seems like a popular gun I'd just like to know the twist and what people like to shoot out of it. Thanks!

 

[Musketeer]

Looks like an Investarm model 150 in carbine form (20" instead of 28" barrel and single ramrod thimble). Not sure what the twist would be. Try this method:

 

[mooman76]

If it has a "I" inside a box imprinted in the barrel, it's made by Investarms.

 

[Grenadier1758]

To get you started, @Cole, making white smoke and putting holes in targets, first you will need the loading items. These are the adjustable powder measure, 0.015" thick patches, patch lubricant (raid the kitchen for some canola cooking oil or some dish soap and water), 0.530" round ball, 54 caliber cleaning jag, #11 percussion caps, powder and optional items such as a short starter and range/cleaning rod. As a starting powder, 2fg GOEX black powder is recommended (3fg is okay too). Because of storage regulations small quantities of black powder can be nearly impossible to find leaving the substitute black powders such as Pyrodex and Triple Seven in rifle grades.

Do clean the rifle thoroughly with rubbing alcohol to remove any storage oils or grease that may have dried out in the bore.

Watch some of the introductory videos that have been made by @Bob McBride (Black Powder TV), @B P Maniac Shooter, or @duelist1954. A search on the forums should turn up any number of links. Perhaps you might want to get Dutch Schoultz's system for 94 pages of Black powder rifle accuracy system - .

A starting load is 65 grains, measured in the volumetric powder measure. Lubricate a patch with your lubricant. Place the patch over the muzzle. Set the ball in the center of the patch and start the ball. You may be able to start the ball with your thumb or you may require some more force using the short starter. Seat the ball and patch on your powder. When you are at the place you want to shoot, cap the nipple aim and fire. Repeat as often as necessary.

 

[Cole]

To get you started, @Cole, making white smoke and putting holes in targets, first you will need the loading items. These are the adjustable powder measure, 0.015" thick patches, patch lubricant (raid the kitchen for some canola cooking oil or some dish soap and water), 0.530" round ball, 54 caliber cleaning jag, #11 percussion caps, powder and optional items such as a short starter and range/cleaning rod. As a starting powder, 2fg GOEX black powder is recommended (3fg is okay too). Because of storage regulations small quantities of black powder can be nearly impossible to find leaving the substitute black powders such as Pyrodex and Triple Seven in rifle grades.

Do clean the rifle thoroughly with rubbing alcohol to remove any storage oils or grease that may have dried out in the bore.

Watch some of the introductory videos that have been made by @Bob McBride (Black Powder TV), @B P Maniac Shooter, or @duelist1954. A search on the forums should turn up any number of links. Perhaps you might want to get Dutch Schoultz's system for 94 pages of Black powder rifle accuracy system - .

A starting load is 65 grains, measured in the volumetric powder measure. Lubricate a patch with your lubricant. Place the patch over the muzzle. Set the ball in the center of the patch and start the ball. You may be able to start the ball with your thumb or you may require some more force using the short starter. Seat the ball and patch on your powder. When you are at the place you want to shoot, cap the nipple aim and fire. Repeat as often as necessary.

That's that helps a lot. I have some .015 patches I just got but their pre lubed. How do you guys feel about those?

 

[Cole]

Looks like an Investarm model 150 in carbine form (20" instead of 28" barrel and single ramrod thimble). Not sure what the twist would be. Try this method:

Thanks!

 

[mooman76]

Pre lubed are usually fine but they are so easy to make yourself and it saves you $. Sometimes the prelubed patches deteriorate over time and give you poor performance so it best to just make your own.

 

[JohnnieT]

The pre-lubed ones work well enough, but most people over time find a specific ball and patch combo they like, and the pre-lubed ones aren’t always available in the preferred thickness. As has also been mentioned, if you shoot a lot, making your own saves money. Nothing wrong with the pre-lubed ones. Might as well use them up if you’ve got them.

 

[JohnnieT]

If it has a "I" inside a box imprinted in the barrel, it's made by Investarms.

For the OP, maybe this will help point you in the right direction. Here are some photos of the manufacturer’s mark and proof marks on one of my Investarms guns. Sorry for the crappy pics, was on the way out the door for work and snapped them in a hurry.

 

[CaptainKirk]

Yep. Investarms.

 

[Zonie]

That's that helps a lot. I have some .015 patches I just got but their pre lubed. How do you guys feel about those?

When you've shot 4 or 5 of these pre-lubricated patches, take the time to find some of them. They will be laying on the ground 10-20 feet in front of the firing line.

If the fired patches material held together in the center of the patch out to just beyond the point where the ball contacted the bore of the gun and this contact area is not cut or burned, your patches should work fine. The area outside the contact zone may be frayed and tattered and that is OK. It's what happens when a piece of cloth meets a wind at supersonic speed.

If the contact area is burned, badly cut or blown apart, toss your patches into the trash.
Those pre-lubricated patches tend to lose their strength after a bit of time because of the effect of the oil on the cloth. There is no way to know if the patches have been sitting on the dealers shelf for a year or more but if they have their worthless. Once they start to break down, they are beyond help.

 

[user 36911]

It looks like a Deerstalker.

https://www.midsouthshooterssupply..../deerstalker-50-caliber-right-hand-percussion

 

[bubba.50]

I believe the carbines were fast-twist.

 

[Musketeer]

I believe the carbines were fast-twist.

That rings a bell with me too. Something like 1:24?

 

[bubba.50]

That rings a bell with me too. Something like 1:24?

I believe that’s right. I know the 54cal carbine l had was fast twist.

 

[Cole]

For the OP, maybe this will help point you in the right direction. Here are some photos of the manufacturer’s mark and proof marks on one of my Investarms guns. Sorry for the crappy pics, was on the way out the door for work and snapped them in a hurry.

Thanks that looks just like mine

 

[Cole]

I believe that’s right. I know the 54cal carbine l had was fast twist.

That sounds right from the research I've done it's either 1:48 or 1:24 but it should be 24 because it's the smaller one idk.

 

[Cole]

Thanks guys for all your help!

 

[JohnnieT]

Glad I could help. If you choose to do much shooting, you’ll find out pretty quickly that Investarms guns are great shooters. Careful, though, they multiply in safes and closets

 

[deerstalkert]

i have 2 investarms carbines, a 54 and a 50. both are 1/48.
to the op.
first thing before firing your carbine , get a steel range rod for cleaning swabbing between shots etc. you will without a doubt save a shooting outing by having one. your ram rod that comes on your gun is just that, a ram rod for seating the charge and ball.
with a short ram rod you will stick a patched jag in the bottom of the bore and end up pulling the brass fitting off, dont ask why i am so sure, but i just spent 5 hours retrieving the fitting and patched jag out of my favorite 50.