What is Wrong in this Picture?

[Crew Chief]

I am totally new to flintlocks. I just bought this Lyman GPs rifle and have not shot it yet. The rifle is in great shape for being used except for the pan area. In the photo it shows an area where the flint has been striking and caused some pitting. Before I shoot it, I would like to know that the flint is positioned correctly. Any suggestions for a new guy would be appreciated.
Thanks and a Merry Christmas

 

[erhunter]

Your flint is the wrong size. I believe the rifle takes a 5/8 wide X 3/4" long flint. You probably have a 3/4 W X 7/8 L in your rifle. Also if the flint is the correct size it looks like the flint could be positioned back toward the jaw more to make the flint not protrude so far toward your frizzen.

 

[Phil Coffins]

Half **** the hammer then close the frizzen, the flint should be about 1/16” or a bit more from touching.

 

[Dave Marsh]

The flint looks to me to be one of those cut agate flints which I understand that they don't work really well. Could be wrong. Good luck.

 

[jackpine54]

My GPR lock likes the 3/4 x 3/4 flints the best. That's size 6S from tow. I have also tried 5/8 x 3/4, size 5. They both work in mine, but seem to get better frizzen coverage and more sparks with the 6S.
Hope that helps

 

[Gonetocamp]

It appears the leather/flint are not back far enough: ie. against the jaw screw. If need be cut or punch a hole in the leather at the screw in order to set the flint back further. If that is the Lyman provided cut flint, be advised that they suck.

 

[Crew Chief]

Your flint is the wrong size. I believe the rifle takes a 5/8 wide X 3/4" long flint. You probably have a 3/4 W X 7/8 L in your rifle. Also if the flint is the correct size it looks like the flint could be positioned back toward the jaw more to make the flint not protrude so far toward your frizzen.

Hunter, I measured the flint and it is a 5/8 by 3/4. It did need to be positioned back some like Phil Coffins said.
Thanks
Chief

 

[Crew Chief]

It appears the leather/flint are not back far enough: ie. against the jaw screw. If need be cut or punch a hole in the leather at the screw in order to set the flint back further. If that is the Lyman provided cut flint, be advised that they suck.

I think it is. I ordered some from TOW.
Thanks
Chief

 

[Crew Chief]

My GPR lock likes the 3/4 x 3/4 flints the best. That's size 6S from tow. I have also tried 5/8 x 3/4, size 5. They both work in mine, but seem to get better frizzen coverage and more sparks with the 6S.
Hope that helps

If the 5/8x3/4 don't work out, I will try the 3/4x3/4.
Thanks,
Chief

 

[Crew Chief]

Half **** the hammer then close the frizzen, the flint should be about 1/16” or a bit more from touching.

Phil, is the flint supposed to touch the pan after being fired?
Chief

 

[SDSmlf]

Phil, does is the flint supposed to touch the pan after being fired?
Chief

No.

 

[Notchy Bob]

Phil, does is the flint supposed to touch the pan after being fired?
Chief

I'm not Phil, but I expect he will concur that the answer is "no," the flint should not be actually touching the pan, even with the **** all the way down. Those peck marks on the pan of your rifle, resulting from being hit by the flint, should not be there.

One other thing to watch for in setting up your flintlock is that even with the correct size flint, if it is incorrectly positioned the inboard corner can hit the side of your barrel.

Phil can probably expand on all of this. He is very knowledgeable.

Good luck with your new rifle, and have fun with it! Shooting a flintlock can be very satisfying, once you get it all set up and learn how to maintain it. Eric Bye's book, published by the NMLRA, would be a good resource for you, if you don't have anyone to serve as a mentor.

Best regards,

Notchy Bob

 

[Crew Chief]

I'm not Phil, but I expect he will concur that the answer is "no," the flint should not be actually touching the pan, even with the **** all the way down. Those peck marks on the pan of your rifle, resulting from being hit by the flint, should not be there.

One other thing to watch for in setting up your flintlock is that even with the correct size flint, if it is incorrectly positioned the inboard corner can hit the side of your barrel.

Phil can probably expand on all of this. He is very knowledgeable.

Good luck with your new rifle, and have fun with it! Shooting a flintlock can be very satisfying, once you get it all set up and learn how to maintain it. Eric Bye's book, published by the NMLRA, would be a good resource for you, if you don't have anyone to serve as a mentor.

Best regards,

Notchy Bob

Thanks Bob. I guess that is why the flint that is on there is chipped off on the right side. How do you adjust for that?
Chief

 

[deerstalkert]

not Bob, but i set my flints up with my finger on the inside of the jaw, snug the leather and flint up to my finger with the blade 1/16 or so from the closed frizzen and square across then tighten the bugger down until i sweat. works for me.

i am old and it don't take much to make me sweat!

 

[Cattywompuss]

Yeah, definitely sticking out too far. If it will not seat further back against the ****, it needs to be knapped back. Can you knap those factory cut flints?

 

[SDSmlf]

Yeah, definitely sticking out too far. If it will not seat further back against the ****, it needs to be knapped back. Can you knap those factory cut flints?

Can not really knap them in the traditional sense. You could grind or diamond file it back to fit. Flint is just too large.

 

[Notchy Bob]

I don't have a Lyman flinter, so can't advise regarding the correct size flint. However, some of the other fellows have addressed that for you. As for adjusting the flint, I put the lock at half-**** and then loosen the top jaw screw of the **** just enough to allow the flint and leather to wiggle some when you manipulate it. Then, just shift the flint and leather around with your thumb and forefinger until you get the cutting edge exactly parallel to the frizzen face, and the inside corner just far enough out to not hit the side of the barrel. Snug down the top jaw screw and close the frizzen, and you should find the cutting edge about 1/16" back from the frizzen face. If it isn't, loosen the screw again and move the flint. Once you have that adjustment made, open the pan, pull the **** to full **** and then ease it down (don't snap it) to make sure you are not hitting the side of the barrel. When you are satisfied that the flint is in good position, hold it in place with one hand to stabilize it and with the other tighten down the top jaw screw as tight as you can reasonably get it.

Bear in mind, the flint will loosen some after a few shots, especially if it is a new flint and/or leather. You ought to check the flint after every shot to make sure it is tight. If it wiggles, make sure it is still positioned correctly and then tighten the screw.

Notchy Bob

 

[SDSmlf]

Flint position will depend on the lock. As previously mentioned, a little away from the frizzen (1/16” was suggested) when in half **** is a typical starting point, but may not be correct for every lock. Here are photographs of a couple locks on my workbench right now. First one is an Investarm. Flint is in the typical starting point mentioned above, and is not touching the pan in the fired position. The second lock has more clearance between the 1” long flint (piece of wood in this example) and frizzen at half **** and is nearly centered over the pan when fired. Best position will only be known after some actual live fire with the lock.

 

[jackpine54]

Duelist1954 has a good video on YouTube that explains flint setup.

 

[hanshi]

A flint that's too large for a lock will end up hitting and damaging things that shouldn't be hit. The flint should not strike the barrel OR the pan.