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What kind of lube?

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bigben

32 Cal.
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Just wondering what kind of lube do most of you use.How many shots between cleaning ao you get with the lube you are using.
 
bigben said:
Just wondering what kind of lube do most of you use.How many shots between cleaning ao you get with the lube you are using.
You probably get about the same weather patterns there that I have here in NC...I use Goex and Natural Lube 1000 for the majority of the year and don't have to wipe between shots at all, except for the cool winter months...for them I started experimenting with Hoppe's No9 PLUS and it's outstanding...lets me run whole range sessions with no wiping even in those dry low humidity months
For all hunting, I only use NL1000 regardless of the weather or time of year
 
BigBen, I was a Wonder Lube fan but now I'm using "Power Lube" by Bridger's Best. So far, I've never shot enough at one time to say how many shots can be taken before the bore must be wiped. In my .54 I've shot 25 rounds with ease. If you want to know more about Bridger's Best, look at[url] www.bridgersbest.com[/url]. He calls his lube the "Rocky Mountain Blend" and it sure works for me. Le Grand
 
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I had used Hoppes for many years. The last couple of years I've been using Ballistol though. I mix it with 5 to 7 parts of water, spray the patches till they're wet, and let the water evaporate out. This has turned out to be an awesome lube for consistency.

I clean with the same mix too. Then follow up with straight Ballistol. Also, it keeps my cylinder pins from fouling up.

If I'm shooting for groups, I wipe after every shot for consistancy, but if I'm just out plinking, I find I don't need to wipe for 40-50 rounds.
 
I've been using home-made (search under "Moose Snot") for going on three years and can go 15 shots without needing to wipe with a spit patch. Could probably go longer, especially if I load the patch up. I find the minimal amount of lube prevents shot stringing (holes wandering in one direction across the target).

I like to carry a strip of soaked and dried liquid lube on a roll in a small deerskin pouch for loading from the bag, but I use the grease lube when shooting from ball blocks.

In both cases I wipe the bore with alcohol and then Sheath after a cleaning, and then wipe a greased patch in the next day.
 
I've been using Stumpkiller's Moose Juice and Moose Snot. Generally I go 12 - 15 rounds and then run a damp patch (91% rubbing alcohol) then a dry patch. I load from a loading block (made 2 that hold 26 PRBs), one's lubed with juice, the other with snot. So far I have found the juice to be a wee bit better than the snot. But the snot tends to last longer. It also holds up to the hot weather we have been having around here. It doesn't run off or get too messy.
 
I use GO-JO creme hand cleaner (white tub) as a cleaner/lube/patch lube. Try it it is cheap and if you don't like you can use around the house/workshop to clean up with.
If I'm footin' it I take it in the squeeze tubes that hikers and backpackers use to carry jam/honey/butter and so on in, the kind that has one end held shut by a split pin, opens up when the pin is removed for loading.And has a screw cap over a small mouth.
I also soak and squeeze dry pre-cut ball patches with it to carry in an Altoids tin and a loading block (4 PRB's).
If your'e staying afield for a few days take along a bore mop to clean the barrel with (and heat water in your coffee pot to pour down the barrel/scrub around the nipple drum) and an old toothbrush to scrub the lock/ nipple drum.
I got curious after reading about Stumpkiller's Moose Snot and looked at the ingredients in GO-JO and behold, the composition seems to be very similar except that some ingredients are close substitutes for ingredients in Moose Snot.
I always dry patch between shots with a looser fitting patch (still tight weave tho) than my PRB patch material, one stroke in-out and I've never counted but I'm gonna say about 20 shots before I have to bore brush/ cleaning patch wet with GO-JO the fouling.But about this time I have to remove the drum clean-out screw to clean the flash hole and use a nipple pick to clean the nipple anyway.
I use 60 gr. 3f for plinking, 70 gr. with duplex PRB for deer (they ain't going far when hit in the boiler room/neck with this). This is with .50 cal CVA :thumbsup:
 
I use Mink oil from Track of the Wolf...I can shoot all day without cleaning and get good accuracy! It keeps the fouling really soft...
 
Is mink oil the same stuff that is in the boot dressing? I'm asking because I plan on getting a Lee mould for REAL slugs and figger GO-JO is not gonna be thick enuff for good lube on them.
:hmm:
 
Hi there,

No the mink oil I use isn't the stuff you would use for a boot oil. I would say the mink oil from the Track is thicker then shoe oil but it isn't the same stuff. I don't think I would use shoe oil in a firearm. All I think it is, is mink oil mixed with beeswax. You could make a similar lube using beeswax and olive oil.
Personally I would use SPG lube for lubing my conicals. It is formulated for black powder shooting and should stick into the conical groves.

Good luck! :thumbsup:
 
Lone Carabiner said:
Is mink oil the same stuff that is in the boot dressing? I'm asking because I plan on getting a Lee mould for REAL slugs and figger GO-JO is not gonna be thick enuff for good lube on them.
:hmm:
For the range.... spit AKA saliva, plentiful and cheap for PRB.
For hunting, or minies/conicals 50/50 mix of beeswax and canola oil you can use olive oil but it costs more.
I don't buy into all the "wonder" lubes sold over the counter. You pay for the name and not much else
 
Crisco or Olive Oil(aka "Sweet oil) will do the job and not cost as much as the fancy stuff does.
 
Eastern Maine Shooting Supplies pre-lubed pillow ticking patches work very well for me. This is the company founded by the former employees of the old Ox-Yoke (makers of Wonder Lube). This lube is very similar to Wonder Lube :winking: . You can check'em out at[url] www.emshootingsupplies.com[/url]
 
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Dixie Flinter said:
Eastern Maine Shooting Supplies pre-lubed pillow ticking patches work very well for me. This is the company founded by the former employees of the old Ox-Yoke (makers of Wonder Lube). This lube is very similar to Wonder Lube :winking: . You can check'em out at[url] www.emshootingsupplies.com[/url]
I just used some of their prelubed 60-70/.018" pillow ticking patches in my .62cal over the weekend...the lube performance seemed identical to the original Oxyoke...here's the patches from Saturday's session, 80grns Goex 2F...they could easily be reused.

60-70cal.jpg
 
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Ive been using olive oil for lube.I dug threw some old targets when cleaning and throwing some accumulated junk away and gave em a good looken over.Of all the lubes i have used that i dont have to clean between shots with over the last few years the moosemilk with water soulable oil mix stood out above the rest.I ordered a gallon sould be in by the weekend.At a 10 parts water to one part oil i can have 11 onces of lube that will cost me a total of 20 cents :grin: If i went 20 to 1 on that mix it would be cheaper yet.Wonder how many patches 11 onces of moosemilk will do.Whole bunch :haha:
 
What do you think of the T/C Bore butter as a lub?
I use it only because I don't know better. And I have to swab the barrel after every second shot otherwise I don't get an accurate shot.
 
The best "rule of thumb" I've found for lube is
anything that will clean your gun will be a good lube and if you can't use it to clean your gun it won't be good as a lube. It has to dissolve black powder fouling and if it does you'll never have to clean between shots.
 
FallingCrows said:
What do you think of the T/C Bore butter as a lub?
I use it only because I don't know better. And I have to swab the barrel after every second shot otherwise I don't get an accurate shot.
Amazing...if you don't mind my asking, what kind and how much powder are you using?
I shoot range sessions every Saturday morning with 50grns Goex 3F, and Oxyoke or TC precut patches prelubed with Natural Lube 1000, no wiping between 50 shots at[url] all...in[/url] the dry low humidity months of winter I used to melt more NL1000 into the patches using the microwave, but found it's easier to just use the liquid Hoppes No9 Plus during Dec/Jan/Feb...
 
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